Hi all I have a 1994 GMC 1 Ton Dullie 4X4 4door in real nice shape.
I need help!
We have a 12 valve cummins engine I would love to put in our GMC

Need all your input to get that accomplished.

Waiting to hear from you all.

Sincerely Sparkie

Alright theres a couple things you are going to face.

1 Wiring
2 Cross Members - You can modify the existing one this has been done or can by a new one.
3. Transmission do you have a transmission or a Dodge one what are you planning to use . If you have a direct bolt up good. If not Some GM trans will bolt up with an adapter that cost money.

4. Are you looking to make power or is this a work horse with stock power mabe a little

5. Which 12 Valve do you have VE Pump or a P Pump

DESTROKED: Cummins Conversions is a great site for converting a 12v into just about anything. They have the motor mounts and all that you will need. The crossmember will be easy to make yourself, but like speaksup said, its a necessary evil that you MUST deal with.

Also, like SPeaksup said, the transmission choice is crucial.. do you know which one you want?

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Yes I need a little more input on this to try and help you out.

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What all would you like help with?

BigDiesel359's Sig:

1995 Chevrolet K2500, 12V, auto, too much $$ tied up..
1985 VW Jetta 1.6L N/A Diesel, 5spd, 2dr

Update: Gettin it done by cutting off the front frame of the GMC and welding and fish plating the doner Dodge front frame, installing a GM solid front axle. It taking alot of work but we will gitter done. Going from the automatic trans to the 5 speed dodge and transfer case.
This is more work then most may want to do but when done it will be 210 HP of Cummins power for this very nice 1994 GMC 1ton dulle 4 door service truck, nice stand up service body. We are putting a PTO on to drive a hyd pump for many attachments!!

i sure hope you saved the stock dodge computer so you can make your stock preheaters and everything work right. and look into autoworldmt.com they make alot of good stuff too. its easier to order the conversion motor mounts than to chop off the whole frame. especially not to mention they are different widths if i recall correctly

tltruckparts's Sig:

1995 Chevy K2500, 1993 Cummins 12 valve Turbo Diesel IC, Getrag 5 speed with southbend clutch, NP205 Transfercase, SAS w/ GM Dana 60 front, Corporate 14 1 ton rear w/ disc brake conversion, BFG MT 35's. 1/8" timing bump, upgraded pump w/ 3200 spring, SDX 5x14 injectors, HX40 Turbo, M&H M3 Fuel Pin, airdog II 165, Autometer EGT, Boost, & Fuel Pressure As soon as my streetbike sells: P Pump swap, twins, and hydraulic steering

DO NOT cut the frame off and try to graph the 2 together. The Cummins will fit BEAUTIFULLY inside of the GM frame...with nothing more than making (or ordering) a set of motor mount brackets that bolt onto the Cummins Block. I would recommend keeping the GM alternator, as it is internally regulated...the Dodge alternator is regulated through the Dodge Computer. Use the GM coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor, and your gauges will work and stay accurate. Also there is an Intercooler out of another diesel pick-up (I can't remember from what truck) that will fit in front of the radiator beautifully For the transmission, you will need to make a crossmember....no big deal as all you have to do is go flat across the bottom of the GM chassis, and it'll fit beautifully. A body lift MAY be required to clear the transmission bellhousing. I've heard you do, and I've heard that you don't. I did, just to be sure, and it looks a little tight to me; I don't think it would have fit without the Body Lift As mentioned...go through AutoWorldMT for your brackets...I used them for my swap, and their products are extremely well made. They specialize in this kind of engine swap, and have great tech support as well.

i used the autoworld motor mounts as well great products. and i did not use a body lift and i made it work just fine. i just used the stock 93 intercooler. trans crossmember is a little more difficult than a straight line. if you do that, the front driveshaft will hit the crossmember

You're right...I stand corrected. When I originally did my swap, I used a piece of box tubing to build my crossmember; when I went to install the front driveshaft, I did have to notch it out, and then re-inforce around the notch and box it back in. Still, it was REALLY easy to do...

ive got one... pix are on myspace

FastCR's Sig:

1995 Chevy K2500 Extended Cab Long Box P Pump 12 Valve + NV4500 + Military 37s
215s, No fuel plate, star wheel all in, WG shut, Southbend, stacks, some other stuff
'08 LMM 6" lift, 35's, blacked out, etc. (dads)
'02 VW Jetta TDI (All stock except deck)
I got a pocket full of bread a girl givin' me in the back row at the movies

Here's a pic of Auto World's brackets with the GM alternator and A/C Compressor...And the Cummins sitting in the frame...


2 Pix of the crossmember before I notched it out...I'll try and get one of the crossmember after I notched it out...