You take the #1 injection line off and when the fuel starts to spill from the delivery valve see the timing marks. Crank over by hand. Just an FYI they did have a factory higher timing on motors used in gensets, 9 deg btdc, the added timing is for higher rpm's. They were governed to 2200 rpm. So you see that they set timing higher for more rpm like we are doing.

 

I did the pump timing today, at the cost of one valve cover bolt and a intake manifold gasket. I've ordered the gasket, can't find the bolt so i may have to use a standard bolt and make a spacer for it.

I had a hard time with the spill over as when you come by you get a quick squirt and its hard to tell where the timing marks were in that split second. So I disassembled the #1 valve and seat so I could see it just bubble over. It looks to be about 6 degrees BTDC but it was still an approximation. I pulled the larger of the 2 shims and it appears to be 9-10 degrees BTDC. I had to remove the valve cover and the little spring gizmo that pushes the rack forward to remove the pump.

 

Nice! Looks like you removed a 3deg shim and left a 2deg shim in, so 9deg btdc is where you're at. Ya that timing check is a little subjective.

 

I said I had to remove the valve cover and rack return spring, what I failed to mention is I also had to remove the intake manifold. Just so that others can take note as to what gaskets may be needed. The only gasket that I need to replace is the intake manifold gasket.

Jason

 

Got the adapter mounted to the back of the engine. It is an SPmachining AKA 68yellowGTO dapter.

Pulled the radiator shroud fan, alternator, and drive shaft from the donor truck. The driveshaft is a aluminum/composite one, I was surprised to see GM did this.

 

I've got the parts truck striped and ready to be used for mock up. Learned that the skid steer is not the best alternative to an engine hoist but gets the job done. I busted the shift tower on the way out.

I got the flywheel and starter installed. The pinion only engages about half the ring gear on the flywheel. Apparently this is common with mini starters as they have about half the movement in the bendix as the oem starters. It turns over just fine makes no noise and has no signs of odd wear. not sure if i will go with it or attempt to make another nose plate that pushes the ring gear closer. It is currently .270 away from the ring gear, and the instructions state the minimum distance is .065. So there is room to move it forward and catch more of the ring gear.

 

Looking good. I forgot to send you the torque specs for the adapter.

Adapter Plate to block should be 45ft lbs.
Crank adapter to crank at 90ft lbs. This is hard to measure because of the Allen head bolts.
Bellhousing to Adapter Plate should be 30ft lbs.
I suggest getting a stud kit for the starter so you won't be repeatedly using the threaded holes when replacing the starter.
Please use loctite on all bolts.

Also make sure everything is very clean and not painted. On mounting surfaces. Even a small piece of debris between the crank adapter and crank can throw the flywheel run out off quite a bit. When testing I found .013 run out on the face and had to disasemble and found a little bit of greasy dirt in between the crank adapter and crank shaft.


The starter engagment is common and exactly as found on a standard small block Chevy. It was a concern or mine when I desgned it. I decided to leave the locations as they were in the adapter plate because of I moved them rearward more the 153 tooth starter would overextend.

Good luck and happy Thanksgiving. Project is looking great

 

Instead of making a whole new mounting plate for the starter look into just counterboring the original plate so the starter fits in farther.

 

I have thought about that but that will reduce the thickness of the aluminum between the 2 little screws and the starter motor. I may just take some measurements and run this the way it is, and if it gives me any trouble then make a new one. I looked for studs and could only find one source for starter studs that have the appropriate knurled section for locating the starter. An he is currently out of stock.

 

Started working on the hydroboost setup today, had to extend the brake pedal rod. The outer diameter of the s10 master cylinder is to large to fit the hydroboost unit, so now it is time to figure out what master cylinder fits.