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Kubota Ranger

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  #11  
Old 10-22-2014, 12:05 PM
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I got a bobcat style oil pan from Kubota along with a dipstick and rear crankshaft seal. Might as well do the works while it's apart. So along goes a new clutch and transmission seal.
While I had the pan off I took a good look inside, I was amazed to find I could still see cross hatching in the cylinders. It's hard to tell from the pics
 
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2014, 07:13 PM
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For my turbo drain, i drilled a hole in the back of one of the bolt boss's down low on the block towards the rear, then used a banjo bolt. I am not very happy with it. I liked kubotamans way with a rt and lft dipstick tube. Dipstick on passenger side, and turbo drain on the drivers side. Or another good way is to put a drain in the side of the oil pan when you modify it.
I put my vacuum pump drain where your oil fill cap is
 
  #13  
Old 10-22-2014, 10:44 PM
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Why don't you like your drain? I never thought of doing it that way my vacuum pump has a crankcase on it no oil feed.
 
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:20 PM
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I'm stoked there are so many builds on here and so many ideas. I might have to borrow your oil fill idea cap idea.
 
  #15  
Old 10-23-2014, 10:56 PM
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Go ahead I'm sure I'm not the first one to do that either! How did everybody make the ford coolant sensor work? Mine has no threads on it?
 
  #16  
Old 10-23-2014, 11:47 PM
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Couple of reasons problems with going through the bolt hole. First i don't think i cut the hole big enough. I cut it from inside when i had the pan off. I can make it bigger when i next pull the pan.. second problem was stick out, i had to buy banjo. To AN adapters. The biggest. AN adapter i could get was a 6, i made the drain hose a dash 8, so that added. More stickout. Then the banjo bolt was aluminum. I re made the bolt in steel, on my first run it leaked . I get home from work on Saturday, so i can get back on it
 
  #17  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:23 AM
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I think I may still give the banjo bolt idea a try I think it will look the neatest.
So I know the little screw on the front of the injection pump is the rack limit screw. What is the bigger screw on the back of the injection pump? Is it a buffer screw?
 
  #18  
Old 10-24-2014, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DetroitDiesel
I think I may still give the banjo bolt idea a try I think it will look the neatest.
So I know the little screw on the front of the injection pump is the rack limit screw. What is the bigger screw on the back of the injection pump? Is it a buffer screw?
The screw in the rear contains the start spring, it forces the rack forward for starting. It does not need to be modified.
 
  #19  
Old 10-24-2014, 04:15 PM
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So is the spring even adjustable? If so what does it change
 
  #20  
Old 10-24-2014, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DetroitDiesel
So is the spring even adjustable? If so what does it change
Yes it is adjustable. The spring applies pressure forward on the fuel rack so that it rest against the governor until the engine starts. Once the engine starts it really doesn't do much. However once running, if the spring wasn't there, it would be very slow to fuel or increase RPM.

The older engines had small spring in the front of the pump that attached to the front cover. I found in these engine that it helped to make the spring stouter. This was not the case in the engines with rear mounted springs. I think the rear springs are stouter to begin with.
 


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