I know you have it somewhere else in this post, but tell me again what axle ratio you have.

 

4.56

 

My xj has the ax-15 transmission and had the 2.5VM engine. Almost finished with the conversion now....just trying to figure out temp sensor and gauges.

 

Should be pretty cool when its all done. I bet you have some interesting parts on that XJ that most of us haven't seen, not sure if that made it harder or easier for you. Would love to see some pics.

 

hi evenglass, do you have any more pics of your cam sensor? I am trying to figure out where to cut the plastic off, and I am not sure if I need to cut all the way back to the metal magnet? or if I need to leave the vertical plastic bit, here is a pic of my cam sensor

 

Your sensor configuration looks different than mine but the wire count and basic look of the censor look the same. This is how I believe it works; Some sensors use a magnet to trigger and some sensors are magnets that require metal to trigger( or absence of). A good example is the crank sensor, its a magnet that reads the notches(absence of metal) on a rotating metal disk which creates a signal. The cam sensor is the opposite, it is triggered by a passing magnet. The Jeep cam sensor does not rotate nor does the magnet trigger, instead the magnet is shielded by a metal disk that is attached to and spins with the cam. This metal disk has a small window cut into it as this window passes the sensor it is exposed to the magnet thus creating a signal.

Sooooooo in short the only thing you need to keep is the sensor portion (the piece with the wires attached) you will later create your own magnetic trigger by passing a magnet in front of the sensor instead of the shield/unshield method Jeep uses.

Sorry for the long explanation, thought someone could use it in the future.

http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/IMG_3307_zpsac4dd106.jpg.html
Picture of what I was left with after grinding all the plastic away.

 

<a href="http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/IMG_3307_zpsac4dd106.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/evenglass1/IMG_3307_zpsac4dd106.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_3307_zpsac4dd106.jpg"/></a>

 

Hi evenglass, thank for the info, but the cam sender I have from a '94 6cyl is a magnet, or has a magnet. It gets its interruption from from a steel rotator that spins with the distributor, and I guess only has the one interruption. The rotator spins in between the magnet in the sender and a vertical bit opposite the magnet. The clearance between the mag and the vertical bit is approx. .080".
I don't know what is in the '98, I did not pull the dist cap from the '98 engine, as it was running perfect when I pulled it.
so that now that I have looked at it a little closer, I am wondering if both parts of the sender are necessary or just the magnet side. it sort of seems that maybe the opposite side from the magnet is where the signal is generated? my thought is that if the magnet is fixed, then maybe the mag flux is interrupted by the spinning rotator? and sensed from the opposite side from the magnet??? Heck I don't know.
Since both you and Red, are saying the same thing that the cam signal does not have to be accurate, just present, I think I am going to try Redveloce's method, and not even use the cam sender at all, I will try and get a fooling signal to the cam side of the ECM from piggy backing onto the Crank sensor.
I will post a pic of the '94 distributor on my thread so as not to jack up your thread with my pictures.
Thanks for the info , I will keep you posted as I progress. I did not have a tach in my MB Cherokee, so this is new territory for me

 

Just read your post on the other discussion before I checked here so sorry if I repeat myself. Feel free to post pics on here, I really wanted to create this thread as a how to and questions answered kinda thing. I remember the countless hours and forums I visited when I started my build in search of info. So if you or anyone else has an answer to a problem or an alternative method feel free to post here.

My 96' distributor was indeed different than your 94'. The 96' had a solid metal cone with just a small window to expose the magnet to the sensor once per revolution for a very short time. So the way I see it on the 94' has a magnetic sensor that is triggered by a small piece of metal once per revolution vs. the 96' sensor that is exposed to a magnet trigger by a small window once per revolution. Apples to apples or apples to oranges? This may make I difference in whether the splice trick will work on later model Jeeps.

 

I have a 1992 xj and used the stock jeep flywheel and left the crank sensor hooked up. With the 0m617 running and the stock jeep distributor still hooked up I spun the distributor to trigger the sensor and the tach still did nothing. Just my experience with a pre obd2 xj.