Correct me if I'm wrong, that 2.5TD is the 116hp/278tq version right? I think I've read about that series having allot of reliability issues i.e. rear main seal, head gasket, EGR, oil cooler, throttle by wire system, and problems with every accessory bolted to it. But still why are you opting to replace that engine?

I'm loving my conversion! the engine sounds great and works really well off-road. I met up with a local Jeep club recently and we hit the sand dunes pretty hard, this was really the first time I pushed/tested the jeep since the conversion. I'm really happy with the performance off-road, most of the guys had new JK's on 35" tires some TJ's and an older YJ. The jeep kept up with all of them no problem even with significantly smaller tires. Everyone including myself where pretty impressed. If you've read through my posts you will see I recommend a stall speed of at least 2400rpm(true stall 2000) and this proved true in the sand, the sand was acting as a slip allowing the engine to boost before hill climbs and speed runs. Off to Daytona tomorrow for Jeep Beach, when I get back I'm going to advance the timing and eventually change torque converters. Updates, the 1-2 shift is not nearly as harsh as it was I guess it's broken in some, the air in the fuel problem is fixed and power is up, rear main seal is leaking a little, AC works great but the engine has settled down about 1/4" more and now the AC pulley rubs the pitman arm on right turn full lock, I'll have to clearance the arm some more. Side note; I run 2cycle oil in every tank, the benefits of this are well documented.

Also on the list of things to do, I've installed some JKS disconnects that should allow me to flex pretty well but I'm scared to run without them without bumpstops as right now the oil pan would be my bumpstop. When I get back I'm going to extend the bumpstops I never had with the use of some thick wall pipe and hockey pucks. I think I'll call them bang-stops, those hockey pucks are really hard.

Sorry about the above rants, to my knowledge there is no AC bracket you can buy that will work on this engine that will work in the XJ. The om617 did come with a Sanden compressor at one time, finding one of these brackets is almost impossible and it wouldn't work in an XJ anyway. There are companies that sell aftermarket style Sanden brackets for this engine but the brackets are expensive and would have to be highly modified to work. The key to getting the AC to fit is to have it hug the block as high up as possible and I mean really hug the block. My compressor should/could have gone up a 1/2" and out 1/2". Of course you could use a smaller compressor, the SD510 I had and it's cheap.

This post has lots of useful pictures and info but the bracket sticks out to far. I used many of the design elements in my bracket.
Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

The complete kit$$$ and it still won't work.
Klima Sanden A/C Compressor Upgrade Kit (W123 diesels) | Klima Design Works


The compressor I used. Reliable and cheap, this is what all the Vintage Air guys use.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fs...FW1nOgodGGEAQw

What transmission will you be using? I think the 2.5TD was only manual right? Let me know when you start yours, I'd be happy to help as I can.

 

And welcome to the forum! Lots of good guys on here.

 

Thanks for the a/c and other helpful info. You are correct about the 2.5VM engine. I'm replacing it because it apparently has a "turned"main baring and no-one in the states wants to have a shot at rebuilding it for me. The jeep has some interesting things that you don't see often: Fuel heater, accelerator pedal position sensor, both ecm and pcm to run the drive by wire engine and other electrics, built in return line and big fuel filler opening,"turbo diesel" on the rear door, et. It's a shame the engine went out, since the jeep has only 67k miles, but it'll be great with the om617 installed.
This is my wife's jeep, and I've got to figure out the AC somehow because we have 100+ days here during the Summer. I've installed a 3" suspension lift, which might help, but I'll have to measure after the motor settles in for a while.
We will use this jeep for dd and also driving over passes in Colorado, so I'll put in as much effort as it takes to get it right. If anyone is interested in the VM engine, I have lots of information, since I considered rebuilding it myself.

 

A 95? The one with a mechanical IP?
Why would you swap that engine? Parts?
I do have two of the VM engines and they do work as long as you do your maintenance.
To read as water pump, thermostat and radiator ok, 60:40 coolant mixture.

What is your problem? I do have that engine modified to 160hp and there is no fail.
Main bearing turned? You hit the throttle when cold?
The main crankshaft is clamped with alloy discs. They need the heat expansion before they operate perfect. Parts are easy to get - shot a pm is you need help.

 

I've been holding back on provided any mileage info until I had some real quantifiable data not this "Oh I toped off the tank and on my next tank got 48mpg" crap. Just one gallon is 5% difference on a 20 gallon tank, that is huge not to mention other variables.

Here are my variables;

I drive like a NASCAR driver everywhere I go, people do not pass me if I can help it (a horrible habit).
Air in fuel fixed 450 miles ago
Lost about 2 gallons of fuel chasing the air leak
Fuel return lines still leaking a little
200 miles with crappy 33"x12.5 tires and air in fuel
At least 300 miles hard trials, think desert dunes and hills no creeping all skinny pedal
Speedometer off 2.5mph at all speeds +/- (5.26% at 60mph)
The thickest dino differential fluid I could find.
A/C use 50% of time

Here are my numbers based on 60% city 40% highway (1000miles +/- not accounted for from the beginning due to my mileage program resetting);

183843 17.005gal -----
184093 13.620gal 18.4 mpg
184392 16.480gal 18.1 mpg
184678 17.052gal 16.8 mpg
184998 15.115gal 19.5 mpg Best
185292 15.115gal 19.5 mpg
185597 17.007gal 17.9 mpg
185811 14.000gal 15.3 mpg Worst
186091 17.792gal 15.7 mpg
186341 15.080gal 16.6 mpg
186608 15.001gal 17.8 mpg
186745 7.5140gal 18.2 mpg
187027 16.657gal 16.9 mpg

Total fuel cost $802.68
Avg fuel cost $4.02/gal
Total distance 3184 mi
Fuel cost $0.23/mi

OM617 Cherokee
Avg fuel economy 17.4 mpg
Best fuel economy 19.5 mpg
Worst fuel economy 15.3 mpg

CORRECTED BY 5.26%
Avg fuel economy 18.31 mpg
Best fuel economy 20.52 mpg
Worst fuel economy 16.10 mpg

4.0 gas Cherokee
Avg fuel economy 13.89 mpg (corrected 5.26%)

Mercedes 300D
Avg fuel economy 22.1 mpg (This was 60% highway)


Back from Daytona Jeep Beach 2014.
Caravanned with 3 JK's the whole way up to Daytona on the express way, these guys don't drive slow. I ended up leading so no drafting for me, average speed was 70-75mph! runs up to 85mph! the whole way! I was so surprised by the performance, the sweet spot was 2500-2800rpm. At 2500rpm the engine just wants to keep going. At these speeds the EGT's was about 1050-1150*, boost 11psi. I'm sure these speeds killed my mileage.

Round trip about 350miles plus driving around town and track time about 450miles. average speed on the way back was 65-70mph.

I ran the course 6 times, I had a failure the second run due to my oversight. When I installed my Ford 8.8 I didn't weld the perches due to setting correct pinion angle later for the diesel conversion, well out of sight out of mind so a year and a diesel later on the concrete hill/block climb I nailed the front of the rear pinion on a block and it twisted the axle in the perches straight up. I'm not sure how I didn't break the u-joint or drive shaft. The loader (w20 size) came over to haul me off, I asked him to pull his forks under the jeep to see if he could pull the pinion back down. I threw a chain around the front of the pinion and he pulled it down to about 45* at that point the front wheels of the loader came off the ground so we called it quits. I pulled the rear shaft and limped it across the street to a Home Depot (very convenient placement). I bought a 22mm wrench loosened the u-bolts and twisted the axle back with a giant pipe wrench. Tightened the crap out of the u-bolts and found a shop downtown that welded the perches for $20. All in all a 2 hour repair Friday at 4:45pm.


At the shop downtown getting welded.


Video clip of the concrete hill climb.


Before we left town.


This clip shows the track well(first person) I'm on the left track just ahead.


At the beach.


The Jeep Beach parade.


Lined up with monsters.




Cruising speed with gauges.

The course was deceptive and there where many jeeps with mechanical failures and many got stuck (JK's with 33-35" tires). Lots of snide comments when I entered the course, by the top of the hill the crowd was cheering. My rig made it look easy, in 4L I'd just let my foot off the gas and creep over most of it. 32psi in my tires and sway bar connected the whole time.

Lots of questions a the end of the course, why was your Jeep smoking? What's wrong with your engine? What lockers do you have? Is that a 2" lift?

The Jeep is so quite only a few realized it was a diesel, I had a few offers to buy it too.

The JK is an AWESOME jeep, it will no doubt be the next iconic Jeep but it was nice to see how well the old XJ's, TJ's, ZJ's kept up and surpassed in some instances. The JK also has an AWESOME price tag with a buy in at 20-50k, 80% off all the Jeeps at the show where JK's in the 50k range! 99% of the venders had only JK stuff at the show. JCR was the only vender with XJ stuff displayed, later that day we parked next to the JCR guys on the beach. Met 3 of the owners, they said the XJ is what started their business their "meat and potatoes". They said while hear in Florida they bought a new to them rust free silver XJ that they will be supercharging and promoting with on their website. We got into the USA vs foreign made products conversation, they said they only buy/use/manufacture USA material and equipment. Needless to say I will be buying their bumpers..... Incidentally they drove here from MI in their 60K 2013 supercharged 450hp at the crank JK.

 

Good times.

 

just a quick question. How do you activate the vacuum fuel shut off on your engine? I've been puzzling over this for awhile.

 

I used the over boost solenoid from the 300D I think it's located on the firewall. What you need is a valve that is closed (no vacuum) when powered (ignition on) and open (vacuum applied) when not powered (ignition off). After wiring the over boost solenoid to the ignition run a vacuum line from one side of the solenoid to your vacuum reservoir and the other end of the solenoid to the vacuum shutoff diaphragm on the injection pump.

 

Do you think a duel fuel tank valve would work if one side was hooked to the vacuum reservoir and the other left open?

 

I believe it could work. Any valve that will apply vacuum with ignition off will work, it is a very simple system and works well. You can probably get that valve from the junkyard for less than $10.

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Pelican Parts - Product Information: 001-540-86-97-M244

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