here is the link for the spline couplers. The are at hubcityinc.com

http://www.hubcityinc.com/documents/...ccessories.pdf

there are 2 available. one is an adapter to SAE spline, with a big extra spline on the nose ; page 6 Part # 0332-00084
then there is a sleeve Page 14 p/n 0332-0085. This is the one I bought $100. I don't know for sure if they will fit, but I sure hope so I saw some folks on Orangetractor forum had bought some, and were using them to put hyd pumps on the front of their engines

hope this helps some folks

I have a club meeting to go to gotta get cleaned up

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hi Kubotaman. at FTE's suggestion and comments about what the application for his turbo was ; I put out a few PM's on 4btswaps to people that were working with the little 3.3L cummins industrial engines. One of those guys had a brand new spare that was I think removed for a upgrade. FTE commented that the 3.3l cummins guys needed turbo upgrades because the stock turbo was too small for automotive application as it came from a stationary low rpm engine.
Lets hope it works out as well as FTE's
I agree, I was concerned about a china ebay turbo. So I spent a fair amount of effort finding a name brand manufactured turbo

on a different note. One of my exhaust flange studs came out well the other broke off. so tomorrow is broken stud removal. The cold front finally came through down here, so afternoon and evening was a rain out.
I should be able to get the last little bit of the old jeep engine out tomorrow morning. and I can start working on my trans adapter

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Good evening, Todays progress. There was a small change in plans. I am going to bypass the POS jeep and put the Kubota straight into the nice '98 xj with the bad automatic. So it will be a engine change and a Auto to manual swap.
The AX15 is pulled from the jeep and degreased and pressure washed. I still need to pull the pedal assy, and figure out if the center console is going to work. Also I need a inner shift boot.
If there are any jeep guys out there that know anything about inner shift boots I found the correct part for $40. But there are some from other jeeps that are $10 I need to figure out if those cheap ones will work.

Now on to important stuff. I started to work the initial math on the transmission adapter, and I want to bounce the theory off you all. I took a measurement from the clutch side of the OE jeep flywheel to the Jeep block where the trans bell makes contact @ 1.555 inches. That measurement is the key correct? Next measure the same on the Kubota and I get 2.874. So that means that I have 1.319 to play with to make the adapter, and shave the flywheel.
So I plan on cutting the Kubota flywheel housing down to .5", and the trans adapter ring will be .375 that sums out to .875". So I take the 1.555 minus the .875, and I get 0.68 which is the amount I need to cut the Kubota flywheel thickness down.
Is that all correct?????
Is that the correct theory??
I need to find a machine shop to cut my flywheel cover down.
Also I noticed that the jeep flywheel has I think 12 cutouts for the CPS, I want to duplicate that in the Kubota flywheel
I don't know how the '98's computer is going to handle the the older manual transmission, or if I will need to put the POS jeeps computer in the '98. I really want all '98's gauges to work including the tach. Maybe I can use FTE/Rangmars tach trick
But that is a ways out yet

 

Yep, sounds like you have the process down!

 

Yes you would measure from the mounting surface of the block to the face of the flywheel where the friction disc would go against along with any factory spacers that might have been used.

And I just thought of this very thing today. I would also check to see what flywheel Min and Max measurements would be for the stock flywheel. Or in other words from as thick as a brand new flywheel to one that has been re-surfaced a time or two. By doing this it will give you an allowable variance for flywheel wear over time.

I only thought of this due to the fact of the needed work to make the Kubota Flywheel work correctly. As in if the factory Flywheel that we would measure from would be at the Minimum thickness then if we should have to resurface the Kubota flywheel then the engagement and or disengagement of the clutch may not be correct or even work at all.

But that is just my thoughts. I know FTE informed me to Forget most things that would transfer over from HP Gas & Alcohol Engines but I feel a few things can be used. If I am wrong please by all means correct me.

 

bad news at the machine shopS. the first shop wanted $250 to $300 to cut the flywheel housing down to size. He said it would be a lot cheaper if I ground out the inside webs before he started. The second shop wanted $200 and said it would probably be easier to copy what was there onto a piece of 1/2" plate. I do have the CAD drawing for the jeep ax15 from someone on this forum I think. I will have to check. Next on the bad news, I called the bolt shop and they told me they had the replacement 10mm flat head screws I needed for the turbo flange, I got all the way into town and OOP's I thought you asked for #$%, we Don' t have what you need. So 0 for 2 on my trip to town.
Mail order works so much better. I got a oilpan, bolt set, and dipstick tube from Same at Lenard's , that will be here the middle of next week.
I am going to see if I can chuck up the flywheel cover in the mill on the rotary table and slice on it with an end mill, then if it is rough cut I can take it back the the machine shop and have them face it too final thickness.

 

I do not know what kind of mill that you will use but if you use a Fly Cutter you should not need to have anyone do any finish work. And they are not all that expensive.

 

now I am kind of thinking the same thing. or better yet I may switch to a one piece solid aluminum adapter plate. I think I have some 3/4" plate, I am sure I have enough 1/2".
The 1/2" seems a little light to me, For sure too light to do a one piece pick up and install of the engine and trans while they are hooked together. it might be easier to make the one piece adapter than to try and align a 2 piece adapter.
Does anyone have opinions on how much flywheel width reduction is best. The thinner the adapter the more I have to shave the flywheel and vice versa, so I guess there will be a minimum thickness for the adapter.

 

In my own simple opinion I would try to keep the Flywheel as thick as I would be able to. My reason for this is simple really. With a heavier flywheel it will help the resonance of the Diesel or to say help it to run smoother and deliver smooth TQ.

If you wish for the Diesel to turn RPM Faster then a lighter flywheel would be desired but the engine will not run as smooth.

As for strength of the Flywheel I have yet to really take a hard look at it. But due to the low pressure point of the type of clutch systems most are running I would think that you could make the flywheel pretty thin without clutch warp during use.

But again I would try and keep the Flywheel as thick as you are able to do so.

 

I was thinking more about rev speed. But I did not want to take a bunch off , just what is necessary. I think the minimum is probably close to .25" just to get rid of the Kubota lip and make it all flat for the new clutch. I hope I have enough 3/4" plate I think that will be fine.
tonight I am looking on the internet for a CAD drawing of the AX15 bolt pattern, or the Jeep I6 pattern. The jeep I6 is supposed to be identical to a lot of other engines, so many, that it is very confusing to try and figure out. I don't have CNC, but having the measurements will help a lot.
So if anyone has the bolt pattern measurements/drawings for a GM v-8, or Jeep or Chrysler v-8 I would like to take a look. I did find the Kubota measurements Redveloce sent me months ago

 

I cut down the Kubota flywheel cover with a cut-off wheel on the angle grinder before I dropped it off at the machine shop. All he had to do was a final clean-up pass on the mill. That saved me alot of $ in shop time.

 

I am sorry you lost me on Rev Speed?

As I understand it the Kubota V2203 DI has a governor to prevent the engine from over revving. As this is the reason to replace the factory governor spring with a heavier one to increase the RPM Capability of the Kubota V2203 DI. So no matter how light of a Flywheel you make of which will enable the Kubota V2203 DI Rev faster to the stop point of the Governor. Unless the Governor spring will let the Engine Rev above its capabilities.