4BT hard start issue revisited
#1
4BT hard start issue revisited
I have made a topic a few months ago about my 4BT not starting right. I have to crank it a lot before it starts. At first it doesn't even smoke. It does this regardless if it has been sitting for 5 days or for 5 minutes, regardless if it's warm or cold or if I primed the lift pump in before trying to start it.
Once it starts it runs just fine.
The biggest update is that I measured the fuel pressure and it's at around 10 psi, same for cranking / running.
Here is a clip of it starting. It ran for 15 minutes then was stopped for 5 minutes before the clip.
The buzzer is a low-oil pressure warning.
Is the lift pump the culprit since it only makes 10 psi ?
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I have check valves on both the fuel feed line so nothing goes back to the tank after I stop the engine.
Once it starts it runs just fine.
The biggest update is that I measured the fuel pressure and it's at around 10 psi, same for cranking / running.
Here is a clip of it starting. It ran for 15 minutes then was stopped for 5 minutes before the clip.
The buzzer is a low-oil pressure warning.
Is the lift pump the culprit since it only makes 10 psi ?
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I have check valves on both the fuel feed line so nothing goes back to the tank after I stop the engine.
Last edited by AdrianD; 11-09-2011 at 03:47 PM.
#2
It sort of sounds like it is cranking too slow. Have you checked the condition of the batteries and cable connections? It could also be a worn starter. The 6bt in our dodge starts instantly but it turns a lot faster than yours seems to be. if it has a bosch ve injector pump it wouldn't matter if it had no fuel pressure at all since they have a vane pump built inside but I don't know what pump you have.
Last edited by gradyc; 11-09-2011 at 08:01 PM.
#3
I agree with gradyc on this...............also check yer starter contacts, I bet they are very thin, if so go to fostertruck.com and get some new ones
#4
Starter was checked 200 hrs ago and we've replaces the bushings, electrical system is perfect (following a rebuild after it caught fire - all big stuff done in 1/0 gauge). I will go over the connections again.
In the clip I was running two batteries. But it's unusual since it does it even after running for hours. I stop it for 10 minutes and it starts bad.
Also, this behavior started pretty much randomly and it was gradual. One time I struggled for 30 minutes to start it with no luck and it was cranking way faster than in the clip. Zero smoke, ended up bleeding the injector lines and it still wouldn't start.
Shouldn't it smoke from the first cranks ?
The pump is Bosch, could be a VE, I'll post some pics later.
In the clip I was running two batteries. But it's unusual since it does it even after running for hours. I stop it for 10 minutes and it starts bad.
Also, this behavior started pretty much randomly and it was gradual. One time I struggled for 30 minutes to start it with no luck and it was cranking way faster than in the clip. Zero smoke, ended up bleeding the injector lines and it still wouldn't start.
Shouldn't it smoke from the first cranks ?
The pump is Bosch, could be a VE, I'll post some pics later.
#6
Injectors and starter are coming off today. To my shame I never checked the injectors although it was in plan for quite some time
Maybe the guy who made the starter bushings used bad material and they are worn again.
Maybe the guy who made the starter bushings used bad material and they are worn again.
#8
Ok, injectors are off, visually everything is ok, a tiny bit of carbon deposits on the tip. They are going tomorrow to a Bosch service for checking.
What is the injector opening pressure ? It's a 1991 engine, Bosch VE pump (without AFC if that matters) .
I've been reading that the injector opening pressure is 245 bar for first gens with the VE. Is that correct ?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
According to the Case service manual, the injectors should open at 245-253 bar. They are Lucas injectors. 0.30mm diameter nozzles.
The results of the test: all injectors open at 210 bar and the spray pattern is bad. I was also told that they can't adjust them. I'm going to another shop, which I've used in the past, for a double check and maybe they can adjust them and check the pattern at the right pressure.
So far so bad, if they still spray bad at 245, I'll have to get new nozzles or new injectors. And these being Lucas I'll probably go for some complete Bosch injectors
What is the injector opening pressure ? It's a 1991 engine, Bosch VE pump (without AFC if that matters) .
I've been reading that the injector opening pressure is 245 bar for first gens with the VE. Is that correct ?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
According to the Case service manual, the injectors should open at 245-253 bar. They are Lucas injectors. 0.30mm diameter nozzles.
The results of the test: all injectors open at 210 bar and the spray pattern is bad. I was also told that they can't adjust them. I'm going to another shop, which I've used in the past, for a double check and maybe they can adjust them and check the pattern at the right pressure.
So far so bad, if they still spray bad at 245, I'll have to get new nozzles or new injectors. And these being Lucas I'll probably go for some complete Bosch injectors
Last edited by AdrianD; 11-11-2011 at 02:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
The second place I took them said the spray pattern was right but the pressure opening pressure is 210 bar. What's weird is that they all open at 210...
So I installed the injectors on the lines and cranked the engine to see the spray pattern, which is perfect. At least I don't have to spend $$ on nozzles.
Now, the suspicion is some valve in the IP according to the second shop which checked the injectors. If tomorrow morning the engine will crank more than a couple times before the injectors spray something it's that valve and I will have to take the pump off and take it in for checking. If the injectors spray on the first go, I will take them to get adjusted. At least that's what my logic tells me.
So I installed the injectors on the lines and cranked the engine to see the spray pattern, which is perfect. At least I don't have to spend $$ on nozzles.
Now, the suspicion is some valve in the IP according to the second shop which checked the injectors. If tomorrow morning the engine will crank more than a couple times before the injectors spray something it's that valve and I will have to take the pump off and take it in for checking. If the injectors spray on the first go, I will take them to get adjusted. At least that's what my logic tells me.