Diesel In Distress - Support TicketNeed Help ? Broke Down Or in Urgent Need Of Assistance Post Here , Thread Will Be Priority and You have the ability to close your own thread when its fixed . If You Do Not Reply in 10 Days your thread will be closed as we will assume its fixed , You can Reopen YOUR Discussion Topic if you wish .
I just bought a 2006 Dodge 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Shortbed with 120xxx miles. It was a bank repo and ran great for the few miles I put on it. I drove it home and parked it. I was power washing some another cummins I ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
I just bought a 2006 Dodge 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Shortbed with 120xxx miles. It was a bank repo and ran great for the few miles I put on it. I drove it home and parked it. I was power washing some another cummins I have and went ahead and washed the mud out from under the hood of my new truck. Tried to be as careful as possible. Made sure not to start the truck for hours, that way if any water got in anyplace it shouldn't it would dry before it shorted something. Hours later, went to start and the truck did nothing but crank. The check engine light flashed. Hooked up my OTC genisys scanner and it couldn't communicate with the ecm. Checked all my fuses under the hood. They all were ok. Pulled the ecm, didn't smell funny but figured I got water in there. Ordered a junk yard ecm on the 25th of June. Same part number. Same year and style truck. Same software it appears. Fast forward to today. Finally came today. Install it and nothing. Just cranks. The only difference is the check engine light stays on steadily light it should. Pulled all the electric plugs I could find, verified clean connections and no bent pins. Still nothing. My scanner still won't communicate with the ecm. The pictures below are of the new and old ecm. I did notice the bent pin on the new ecm and fixed that. Can't find any fused in the truck, just under the hood. Please help. I have a $16k paper weight! I can't even move it because it won't shift into neutral!
ok what you need to do is pull the plug off of the fca on the cp3 pump, try to start it up, it should start and run but it will run rough because full rail pressure will be sent to your rail. If it does start, then unplug the injector harness's, and rail pressure plugs, blow them out dry and put then plug them back in, or you can use electrica clean, and then put dielectric grease on them before plugging them back together, the water can pool up in the plugs and and not dry out, those are the main plugs I would do, and if it still doesnt start with the fca still plugged in, then try drying out all the connectors, if you dont have access to a air compressor go buy a few cans of the compressed air for cleaning computers, etc.
Pulled all the plugs I could find on in the engine bay. Of course the truck is parked across the road. With every air hose I could find, I made it over there. Pulled apart and blew out ever connector. None seamed to have water in it. I had washed it on the 24 of June. Thats almost 2 weeks to dry. Tried the new and old ecm. Still nothing but cranking. Is there some kind of theft deterrent system I might have tripped? I had smelled an electrical short the first time I cranked on it back on the 24. Since I couldn't connect with the ecm I figured it was that. But it doesn't smell bad. Nothing does. Tried grounding the ecm another way and still no anvil. Could it be...
1. A theft deterrent system? Since the truck won't shift into neutral. Is something locking the neutral safety switch?
2. What sensor would keep a truck from running? Do these have crank sensors?
3. Why won't my scanner connect with either ecm? All my fuses and grounds look good.
Called the dealership. They say the ecm for my truck will only work for my truck. That the junk yard one won't work because of it programing. They can't reflash a used one either. $2010 for a new one. $1688 my cost plus $115 to reflash it! %$^&*(# HELP!
On page 177 on the owners manual it states that item #14 is the security light on the cluster. It also says "The security light will also come on for about two seconds when the ignition is first turned on." Mine does this, but instead of going off it after that, it starts flashing. Is this supposed to happen or the the security system cause me the problems?
Sentry Key. Page 13 "The "security light", located in the instrument cluster, will illuminate for about 3 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned to the ON position. If the vehicle electronics do not receive a valid signal from the ignition key, the "security light" will flash continuously to signal that the vehicle has been immobilized. If the "Security Light" remains on during vehicle operation, it indicates a fault in the systems electronics. If this option was ordered, all of the keys provided with your new vehicle have been programmed to the vehicle electronics.
Last edited by Joey-D; 07-07-2010 at 03:56 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have a few chrysler products and have seen issues with the immobilizers, even if the immobilizer is set or tripped it should start for 3 seconds and then die. I would check the fuse box, fuses and relays, also check the connectors on the driver side fire wall the trans and ecm to body harnesses. Had one loose and was causing trouble with the trans. Had a blown fuse in a jeep cause a immobilizer issue too.
I found someone to reflash the used ecm. Installed it today. Truck still won't start. Used starting fluid (I know I know its terrible for a diesel) and the truck would run. So the obviously the fuel is cut. But why? I think the immobilizer. Dash security light still flashing non-stop compared to twice and done. Also my scanner will not connect with the ecm, or any other module for that matter. Would the immobilizer interrupt power and/or ground to the ECM? Foolish question, but the only fuse panel on these trucks are under the hood, no fuses in the truck correct?
I don't know about the immobilizer or atleast its working on the diesels, It does cut fuel so I would assume the transfer pump considering you cant turn off the cp3, If you can disconnect the line from the transfer pump and have someone turn it on or crank it, no fuel. Also you can jump the relay to test it and see if it is not being energized. On the terminal side jump 87a to 30 and it should kick the pump on no matter what, just don't jump 85 and 86 it will fry something. Now, if it works being jumped and the truck runs with it jumped then you are probably right with the immobilizer, it should be in the bcm in the truck and not the ecm, how they talk I don't know. Why it would oose programming being washed I don't know either. The bcm will be in the truck I'd imagine. Let us know what you find with the fuel pump.
Okay, just read through the factory manual, The SKIM module or immobilizer is part of the ignition housing in the truck. It does state that the skim talks to the ecm directly in a diesel. However, whenever a skim or ecm or keys are replaced it all has to be reprogrammed. Looks like it needs a trip to a dealer unless you have or have access to a drbIII. I would still jump the relay and make sure it fires before taking it down to be programmed so the dealer doesn't try and hit you up for diagnosing the problem. They should only charge you for a hour at whatever their rate is.
Diesel Bombers ® - All Content Protected Under Intellectual Property Rights Law of Registered Trademarks Reg. No. 3,494,401 Cls. 100, 101 & 104 Under Int. Cl. 38
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK WE HOLD NO LIABILITY FOR ANY CONTENT RIGHT, WRONG OR INDIFFERENT