I'm a new member so, not sure if this is the way to get help trouble shooting or not. I'm trying it, anyway. Please direct me.
My 7.3L, 280k miles, died while driving and hasn't hit/fired since. Batteries are strong and cranks great. No smoke on cranking. No service engine soon light, other than normal "on" momentarily at ign on. No codes with AutoZone scanner, which I have read will not read my codes, anyway. I have all normal ignition on dash lights; wait to start works. What I have done; Replaced cam sensor. Drained, inspected fuel bowl and heater-good. Replaced fuel filter. Bowl fills with ign "on". Unplugged fuel heater. No start. Checked all fuses, visually, cab and engine boxes. Checked all fuses and relays for PCM and IDM with meter. Unplugged ICP - wait to start light did not work and motor did not start. ICP is oily and wet. Should I replace it and try again or did my test with it unplugged eliminate it as a fault? Service engine soon light stays on with ICP unplugged, and IDM relay out. I used test light across fuse terminals to verify complete circuits on PCM 20A fuse (#19&24 on mine)- have hot side to ground power, have no complete circuit between terminals with power "off" and DO have test light power with switch "on". Tested ohms on PCM diode = good. Relays click with diode installed, do not with it out. Switched relays around, no start, no smoke. Unplugged ebps, no start. Crankcase oil is full. Hpop oil is within 1" of top of plug. The IPR tin nut is secure HOWEVER, the connector body wiggles on the IPR. The connector is tight but the body of the IPR portion of the connection is not secure to the body of the IPR. Any chance that is my issue? I have read on other threads that it is not possible for the motor to start with it unplugged so, how else could I test it? The harness connections to the UVCH appear secure, on the outside of the valve covers. Checked the ground wire on the cowl in engine compartment (firewall to me) up high, near the hood seal. Also, I have a program (chip) installed at low or moderate setting (this truck is not a high performance rig, just a work truck). Should I clear program? I get some action on tach when cranking. I hate the "replace a part and try it" method but, I do not have access to a sophisticated scanner so, I am stuck with that method or dropping the big $ and towing it to the shop. The biggest problem I have with that is that I do not trust the dealer service to find and repair ONLY what is necessary. I have a multi-meter and can perform some elementary things with it but, anything beyond that requires detailed instructions. Also, I do not have a pressure gauge to test HPOP pressure or pressure at filter bowl. Please help. I need this truck for a small business that I own and a few days of down-time causes me a LOT of stress and anxiety, when it needs to be working for me to operate my business.