Smoke Switch.
#1
#2
You make em yourself, tap into the 5v and signal wire on your MAP sensor, run both wires to a switch. with the switch closed it tricks you're computer to thinking you're making a ton of boost so it dumps fuel(smoke) with the switch open it does nothing.
The drawing below shows another wire going to the MAF sensor i dont think that is necissary but i really dont know. Every smokeswitch ive seen is just on the MAP.
The diodes are to prevent "backflow" of current when you dont have the switch open. not sure if THESE are necissary either seeing as when the switch is open theres nowhere for that current to go, but theyre not gonna hurt anything i spose.
The resistor is a good idea though, i think without that your ECM will see the switch as a dead short (because it is) and throw a code most likely. i think the resistor may prevent this.
I could be dead wrong about the resistor, that's just my speculation. I havent done this to my truck yet.
Hope that helps!
The drawing below shows another wire going to the MAF sensor i dont think that is necissary but i really dont know. Every smokeswitch ive seen is just on the MAP.
The diodes are to prevent "backflow" of current when you dont have the switch open. not sure if THESE are necissary either seeing as when the switch is open theres nowhere for that current to go, but theyre not gonna hurt anything i spose.
The resistor is a good idea though, i think without that your ECM will see the switch as a dead short (because it is) and throw a code most likely. i think the resistor may prevent this.
I could be dead wrong about the resistor, that's just my speculation. I havent done this to my truck yet.
Hope that helps!
#3
#4
#6
I get a lot out of it whenever i turn the switch on, even if the chip is down to stock.
having it on a hotter tune makes a lot more smoke though.
If you're getting NOTHING though, it's not hooked up right.
I ended up using 33ohms of resistance and tying into the maf sensor as well as the map.
also, if you're soldering the connections, use a heat sync (aligator clips, ect) on either side of the diode. theyre very sensitive to heat and you might burn them out by soldering close to them. the same thing can happen to the resistor but they can usually take more abuse. still not a bad idea to heat sync when youre soldering small electronics.
It's possible you have it all hooked up correctly but you burned out the diodes in the process?
thats a longshot, but u might want to test your diodes with a mulitmeter and see if theyre still working and are hooked up going the right direction. remember a diode is basicly a check valve for current, and if theyre hooked up backwards, current will not flow.
hopefully that helps you get it straightened out!
having it on a hotter tune makes a lot more smoke though.
If you're getting NOTHING though, it's not hooked up right.
I ended up using 33ohms of resistance and tying into the maf sensor as well as the map.
also, if you're soldering the connections, use a heat sync (aligator clips, ect) on either side of the diode. theyre very sensitive to heat and you might burn them out by soldering close to them. the same thing can happen to the resistor but they can usually take more abuse. still not a bad idea to heat sync when youre soldering small electronics.
It's possible you have it all hooked up correctly but you burned out the diodes in the process?
thats a longshot, but u might want to test your diodes with a mulitmeter and see if theyre still working and are hooked up going the right direction. remember a diode is basicly a check valve for current, and if theyre hooked up backwards, current will not flow.
hopefully that helps you get it straightened out!
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