6.5 in 94 Chevy 3500 Stalling
#12
OK - can't test the injector line until Thurs, but got another question -
I read all the stuff about the SES codes - now my question is, if the SES light isn't coming on do I need to worry about codes?
We did the paperclip thing and that gave us about 7-8 different codes, but is that current problems or is that history since the SES light isn't coming on after cranking the engine or when you're driving it?
Thanks again - your input is greatly appreciated.
I read all the stuff about the SES codes - now my question is, if the SES light isn't coming on do I need to worry about codes?
We did the paperclip thing and that gave us about 7-8 different codes, but is that current problems or is that history since the SES light isn't coming on after cranking the engine or when you're driving it?
Thanks again - your input is greatly appreciated.
#14
#16
OK - we did a little more testing last night - brass t-valve - put drain hose in a jar and cranked the engine - turned the valve and fuel came out.
Not sure on those injector lines - might be more complex than we're ready for
Went looking for the OPS and couldn't find it - removed the collar on the fuel filter and still didn't see it - read some more info last night after dark and saw where it could be below the fuel filter?? - but it takes a special tool to remove, right? Might have to have our mechanic look into that.
Did have a question - the fuel that came out of the t-valve didn't smell like diesel - and while it was a yellow-green, it seemed a little more yellow than green - didn't smell like the diesel we had in a can for our tractor????
Had so hoped the PMD or even lift pump would be the answer - sort of thinking it might be the fuel injector pump saw something on another forum that if the truck starts, runs and then just acts like someone turned the key off AND you can restart and keep going, it's probably the fuel inj pump - don't have the $$ for that sort of repair.
Not sure on those injector lines - might be more complex than we're ready for
Went looking for the OPS and couldn't find it - removed the collar on the fuel filter and still didn't see it - read some more info last night after dark and saw where it could be below the fuel filter?? - but it takes a special tool to remove, right? Might have to have our mechanic look into that.
Did have a question - the fuel that came out of the t-valve didn't smell like diesel - and while it was a yellow-green, it seemed a little more yellow than green - didn't smell like the diesel we had in a can for our tractor????
Had so hoped the PMD or even lift pump would be the answer - sort of thinking it might be the fuel injector pump saw something on another forum that if the truck starts, runs and then just acts like someone turned the key off AND you can restart and keep going, it's probably the fuel inj pump - don't have the $$ for that sort of repair.
#17
yes the OPS on your truck should be around the fuel filter manager in the valley between the heads. mine is a 93 and is the back of the block behind/below the glowplug relay.
do you use highway diesel for your tractor or farm deisel?? i believe the smell slightly different and the farm fuel is dyed reddish.
you could try pumping the tank dry and them putting in fresh diesel and repriming it, see how it acts.
i would start with that, because it is eliminating one variable. With what you say your symptoms are, almost every i have read, people say its the pmd
do you use highway diesel for your tractor or farm deisel?? i believe the smell slightly different and the farm fuel is dyed reddish.
you could try pumping the tank dry and them putting in fresh diesel and repriming it, see how it acts.
i would start with that, because it is eliminating one variable. With what you say your symptoms are, almost every i have read, people say its the pmd
#18
injector lines are a 3/4 or 19mm wrench, just crack it free and crank the truck over so see if fuel come out.
ops is in the back of the block on the drivers side. you have to move the fuel filter housing out of the way 2 (15mm) bolts, just move it out of your way dont remove the fuel lines. there should be a plug on the back of it with 3 wires going to a connector.
yes you do need a OPS socket. they sell them at any parts store for no more than $20.
the thing with the t-valve is all it is a water seperator, that will only tell you if the lp works
ops is in the back of the block on the drivers side. you have to move the fuel filter housing out of the way 2 (15mm) bolts, just move it out of your way dont remove the fuel lines. there should be a plug on the back of it with 3 wires going to a connector.
yes you do need a OPS socket. they sell them at any parts store for no more than $20.
the thing with the t-valve is all it is a water seperator, that will only tell you if the lp works
#19
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