Not trying to be confrontational, but a 3"/4" Diamond Eye system is 300 bucks and turbo to tailpipe......probably one of the best dollar per dollar improvements for a 6.5 turbo.
DIY Turbomaster. Google it.
Bit more $$ - Heath Diesel Turbo master - $110
Used K47 (RPO - GM option code) air box - $50-$150
That's pretty much it for "cheap". You're into around $500 a pop for performance enhancing stuff after the above.
IE: reflashed PCM, WMI Injection, S&B intake, turbos, etc.
Keep in mind; performance and 6.5 means around 200 hp at the crank for a "bolt on strong" 6.5 TD. These are just not "powerhouse" engines and never will be, 250 hp is very expensive to attain and not very easy at all...
And because this will come up eventually;
1. Anything you read on SSDiesel's web store take with a very large grain of salt.
2. Do not even look at anything for sale by "A1Customs". Complete and utter whack job there....
One last thing:
Stay away from marine injectors. One of the biggest scams going.....
Last edited by great white; 04-19-2012 at 07:51 PM..
He's got a 1999 so he should already have a K47 air filter box. LOL Keep your OEM box and use a good quality filter. Do not waste your money on K&N or other stuff. Independant testing says that the OEM K47 with an AC filter, equivalent or better is as good as it gets for flow with filtering. You can't hardly build these engines to the point where they need more than what the K47 will deliver
Add grounds. Check my posts.
use copper coat/anti-seez on enerything as applicable. Never-seez is your friend.
Battery bolt upgrade google it.
Use only ACDelco or GM replacement parts for most stuff. Especially electrical parts.
Use pmdcable or lubrication specialist for engine oil cooler line kits. Do not use any OEM style or OEM engine oil cooler lines they are garbage. Use a braided stainless kit.
I always add a engine oil bypass filter. I use Amsoil or FS2500. I T off the supply side engine oil cooler line for supply and return to the engine oil fill neck to a nipple I weld to it. I mount them by the drivers side battery or horizontally on the drivers side fender well.
When mounted on the inner fender I leave enough slack so I can take a couple of bolts lose & stand the filter in a pan to cut down on the mess when changing the filter.
I break the filter lose before I stand it up in the pan.
It helps to have the vehicle plugged in for some jobs. Such as changing the glow plugs, injectors and oil filter adapter - if you have 4 wheel drive.
If you have something slightly stuck, it's amazing how much difference having the block heated up will make.
I use Sea Foam/Deep Creep for anything that I have to warm up to remove. It's better than anything else I have tried in the past 40 years.
I use a lot of Simple Green also.
The Simple Green spray bottles that they sell are trash. Just buy the gallons and a good spray bottle.
When heating stuff I keep the Simple Green very handy in case of flare ups. Simple Green doesn't burn>
Be very careful what you use for penetrating oils and where you use them. I try to only use plastic safe stuff. A lot of the oils out there will turn corragated tubing into dust.
I use only stainless exhaust. I only like to do things once and generally keep my vehicles forever and a day.
Last edited by jrsavoie; 04-20-2012 at 07:33 AM..
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