Why no fuel? ... sometimes
#1
01-30-2012, 05:31 PM
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Why no fuel? ... sometimes
I see that there are some bright folks on here and some have similar problems to mine. I am mechanically inclined but fairly ignorant with diesel engines. I have a '95 Chev C2500 with 6.5L turbo. This is a work truck with about 175K miles and I have had it for the last 100K.
This truck has a tendancy to shut down at inconsistent times like it is not getting fuel. Sometimes, it refuses to crank altogether but if it is left alone for 5 to 30 minutes it will crank right up like there is no problem. There seems to be no common reason (hot, cold, idling, running 70 mph, etc.)
It usually cranks fine in the morning with a little white smoke and caughing and then smooths out fairly quickly and idles smoothly. After it is warmed up and shut down, it often refuses to crank if it has only sat for a few minutes. Or, sometimes it will crank fine and then shut down only to refuse to crank again unless left undisturbed for a while.
Sometimes I will be driving (at any speed up to highway speeds) and the truck will begin sputtering and spewing and at other times it will just shut down completely. When this happens I can often shift to neutral, turn the key, and it will crank back up. Other times I am left to coast to a stop, wait, and curse (while trying unsuccessfully to crank this thing)until it decides it is time to run.
The truck runs and hauls like a beast when it is running. However, its refusal to work when I need it to is more than frustrating and I can't seem to establish a pattern.
I had a mechanic tell me he thought it was the injector pump but it seems that the truck shouldn't run as well as it does if that is the problem. Another told me he thought it was the crank sensor and replaced it ... without fixing the problem.
I have had this problem for a really long time without it getting any worse. It is very tiresome and time to get fixed. I hope one of you has a cure.
This truck has a tendancy to shut down at inconsistent times like it is not getting fuel. Sometimes, it refuses to crank altogether but if it is left alone for 5 to 30 minutes it will crank right up like there is no problem. There seems to be no common reason (hot, cold, idling, running 70 mph, etc.)
It usually cranks fine in the morning with a little white smoke and caughing and then smooths out fairly quickly and idles smoothly. After it is warmed up and shut down, it often refuses to crank if it has only sat for a few minutes. Or, sometimes it will crank fine and then shut down only to refuse to crank again unless left undisturbed for a while.
Sometimes I will be driving (at any speed up to highway speeds) and the truck will begin sputtering and spewing and at other times it will just shut down completely. When this happens I can often shift to neutral, turn the key, and it will crank back up. Other times I am left to coast to a stop, wait, and curse (while trying unsuccessfully to crank this thing)until it decides it is time to run.
The truck runs and hauls like a beast when it is running. However, its refusal to work when I need it to is more than frustrating and I can't seem to establish a pattern.
I had a mechanic tell me he thought it was the injector pump but it seems that the truck shouldn't run as well as it does if that is the problem. Another told me he thought it was the crank sensor and replaced it ... without fixing the problem.
I have had this problem for a really long time without it getting any worse. It is very tiresome and time to get fixed. I hope one of you has a cure.
#2
01-30-2012, 06:03 PM
Welcome to DB
Ok sound like few diff problems happen
Are you getting any codes if not
1st - one sound like bad PMD
2 - sound like starter problem when the truck get hot one thing check is the small wire to the starter lot times they get heated up from the exhaust or the starter getting wore out can't take the heat
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Reference Material: Lift Pump/OPS
Here’s another one for the newbie’s out there.
After frequenting the boards for awhile, you’ll notice there seems to be a few things that come around, and around, and around again. One of those things is the Lift Pump, official title: Fuel Lift Pump. So, what is a lift pump, and why does it lift fuel? The lift pump is an in-line fuel pump mounted on the frame rail under the driver’s seat. This is a small electric pump that “helps” bring fuel out of the tank and up to the injection pump. This is to help prevent the expensive injection pump from having to “suck” it’s own fuel all the way up from the tank, which it can do, but can cause damage to itself and it's driver module - more on that in another section*.
Now, that’s pretty straight forward isn’t it? So, why so much fuss about a lift pump anyway? Only because it causes so many issues* when it’s not working.
Will my truck run without the lift pump? Yes it will. How well? Well, to some it will be very noticeable when it’s not working. Some may not even notice.
If I don’t notice that my lift pump isn’t working, I’m okay right? Not exactly. That means that your expensive injection pump is doing all the work in the fuel system. This is NOT a desirable thing. Plus you are setting yourself up for problems*.
How can I tell if my lift pump is working? Do the famous “lift pump test.” How do you accomplish this highly scientific experiment you ask? Very simple. Pop the hood - you’re half way there. Find on the front top of the engine the thermostat housing. You should see a little T-handle valve standing proud there in front of you. (If you have a van, you’ll have a schrader valve down deep behind the oil fill) That T-valve is calling your name saying “turn me.” Pay attention, ‘cause there’s a hose on the end of the T-valve. That hose should have diesel fuel come out of it when the engine is idling and you open the T-valve. When you open the T-valve and the engine is idling, and no fuel comes out, you’ll hear your engine cough, sputter, and die within 30 seconds. If it doesn’t cough, sputter and die with the T-valve open and no fuel coming out, something is plugged up in your fuel system between the fuel filter cannister and the t-valve, perhaps even inside the fuel filter cannister.
If the engine does die, it has emptied the fuel cannister and run out of fuel, so you will need to close the T-valve, then troubleshoot and repair the lift pump system, as follows in the text below.
Now, if you get a continuous stream of fuel out the hose, then close the T-valve and open the plastic air-bleed valve on the top of the metal filter cap - if fuel spurts out there, then congratulations! You are the proud owner of a working lift pump. Not everyone is as blessed as you are at this moment. If you're not, keep reading.
To those not as blessed, pickup reading here. You must determine why you have no fuel supply coming to your injection pump. There are two main culprits to the demise of a lift pump. Either it’s out to lunch, or it’s in the morgue. See, one means it still might work, the other means it’s dead. How do you tell? Check to see if it has power.
First, find the lift pump under the truck. With the engine idling along, pull the plug for the lift pump. You can either use a test light, or a meter to see if you have voltage at the pins. Make sure you get a good connection, otherwise you may condemn the wrong thing. Sometimes it is difficult to get a probe to meet up with the pins inside the plug, so make double sure you’ve got it.
If you have voltage, *chances* are you have a dead lift pump. Not always, but could be a dead lift pump. You may have voltage present under a "no load" condition. This means that voltage may be present when the lift pump is not attached to the circuit, but once the lift pump is connected, the load exceeds the amount of power the circuit can provide because the OPS contacts are creating a high resistance.
Now, if you don’t have voltage, you’ll have to verify upstream from there why there is no voltage present. What is upstream? The infamous OPS (Oil Pressure Switch), or fuse.
What does the OPS have to do with the lift pump? Doesn’t sound right does it to have oil pressure tied to fuel does it? Well, some think that it is a fail safe that in case your engine ever lost oil pressure, it would shut off the lift pump so that engine would stall. Guess what? If you read a little bit ahead of this paragraph, you’ll find 'dat ain’t so'. The real reason why this circuit even exists is because of an accident. In case you should be in a wreck, the last thing you would need is to have your lift pump going to town pumping out that precious, expensive, fuel all over the accident scene. After all, should you be bleeding and having a thumpin’ head - the last thing you’ll be thinking is “Hey, I just paid $3.50 a gallon for that, somebody get a shop-vac!”
Why would the OPS not allow my lift pump to work? Well, from time to time, or shall we say in the corporate world, from dime to dime, some decisions get made. Some for the good, and some for the good of the keepers of the money. The OPS has a set of contacts inside to power the lift pump. This set of contacts are not heavy enough to carry the pathetic amount of current to the lift pump. Sad, I know, but true. So, what ends up happening is your lift pump works fine, but the OPS gets smoked, and then it quits. You think the pump is bad, but it’s not.
Can I just eliminate the OPS? Well, be careful, it is a safety device in some people’s eyes, and to the rest of us, a pain in the rump. Eyes, rump, pick your part. Anyway. If you just “jump past” the OPS, then your pump will run all the time. Not just all the time, but ALL THE TIME. Christmas and Easter included. It will stop when your batteries are dead. Because, while you are grocery shopping, that pump is running. While you are down for a long winter’s nap, it’s pumping. Doesn’t matter if the key is on or off, it’s pumping.
You can make up another circuit and repower it some other way, but be careful how you do it. Some methods have kept the truck running after the ignition is shut off and keys in pocket.
Back to our little friend the lift pump.
Ok sound like few diff problems happen
Are you getting any codes if not
1st - one sound like bad PMD
2 - sound like starter problem when the truck get hot one thing check is the small wire to the starter lot times they get heated up from the exhaust or the starter getting wore out can't take the heat
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Reference Material: Lift Pump/OPS
Here’s another one for the newbie’s out there.
After frequenting the boards for awhile, you’ll notice there seems to be a few things that come around, and around, and around again. One of those things is the Lift Pump, official title: Fuel Lift Pump. So, what is a lift pump, and why does it lift fuel? The lift pump is an in-line fuel pump mounted on the frame rail under the driver’s seat. This is a small electric pump that “helps” bring fuel out of the tank and up to the injection pump. This is to help prevent the expensive injection pump from having to “suck” it’s own fuel all the way up from the tank, which it can do, but can cause damage to itself and it's driver module - more on that in another section*.
Now, that’s pretty straight forward isn’t it? So, why so much fuss about a lift pump anyway? Only because it causes so many issues* when it’s not working.
Will my truck run without the lift pump? Yes it will. How well? Well, to some it will be very noticeable when it’s not working. Some may not even notice.
If I don’t notice that my lift pump isn’t working, I’m okay right? Not exactly. That means that your expensive injection pump is doing all the work in the fuel system. This is NOT a desirable thing. Plus you are setting yourself up for problems*.
How can I tell if my lift pump is working? Do the famous “lift pump test.” How do you accomplish this highly scientific experiment you ask? Very simple. Pop the hood - you’re half way there. Find on the front top of the engine the thermostat housing. You should see a little T-handle valve standing proud there in front of you. (If you have a van, you’ll have a schrader valve down deep behind the oil fill) That T-valve is calling your name saying “turn me.” Pay attention, ‘cause there’s a hose on the end of the T-valve. That hose should have diesel fuel come out of it when the engine is idling and you open the T-valve. When you open the T-valve and the engine is idling, and no fuel comes out, you’ll hear your engine cough, sputter, and die within 30 seconds. If it doesn’t cough, sputter and die with the T-valve open and no fuel coming out, something is plugged up in your fuel system between the fuel filter cannister and the t-valve, perhaps even inside the fuel filter cannister.
If the engine does die, it has emptied the fuel cannister and run out of fuel, so you will need to close the T-valve, then troubleshoot and repair the lift pump system, as follows in the text below.
Now, if you get a continuous stream of fuel out the hose, then close the T-valve and open the plastic air-bleed valve on the top of the metal filter cap - if fuel spurts out there, then congratulations! You are the proud owner of a working lift pump. Not everyone is as blessed as you are at this moment. If you're not, keep reading.
To those not as blessed, pickup reading here. You must determine why you have no fuel supply coming to your injection pump. There are two main culprits to the demise of a lift pump. Either it’s out to lunch, or it’s in the morgue. See, one means it still might work, the other means it’s dead. How do you tell? Check to see if it has power.
First, find the lift pump under the truck. With the engine idling along, pull the plug for the lift pump. You can either use a test light, or a meter to see if you have voltage at the pins. Make sure you get a good connection, otherwise you may condemn the wrong thing. Sometimes it is difficult to get a probe to meet up with the pins inside the plug, so make double sure you’ve got it.
If you have voltage, *chances* are you have a dead lift pump. Not always, but could be a dead lift pump. You may have voltage present under a "no load" condition. This means that voltage may be present when the lift pump is not attached to the circuit, but once the lift pump is connected, the load exceeds the amount of power the circuit can provide because the OPS contacts are creating a high resistance.
Now, if you don’t have voltage, you’ll have to verify upstream from there why there is no voltage present. What is upstream? The infamous OPS (Oil Pressure Switch), or fuse.
What does the OPS have to do with the lift pump? Doesn’t sound right does it to have oil pressure tied to fuel does it? Well, some think that it is a fail safe that in case your engine ever lost oil pressure, it would shut off the lift pump so that engine would stall. Guess what? If you read a little bit ahead of this paragraph, you’ll find 'dat ain’t so'. The real reason why this circuit even exists is because of an accident. In case you should be in a wreck, the last thing you would need is to have your lift pump going to town pumping out that precious, expensive, fuel all over the accident scene. After all, should you be bleeding and having a thumpin’ head - the last thing you’ll be thinking is “Hey, I just paid $3.50 a gallon for that, somebody get a shop-vac!”
Why would the OPS not allow my lift pump to work? Well, from time to time, or shall we say in the corporate world, from dime to dime, some decisions get made. Some for the good, and some for the good of the keepers of the money. The OPS has a set of contacts inside to power the lift pump. This set of contacts are not heavy enough to carry the pathetic amount of current to the lift pump. Sad, I know, but true. So, what ends up happening is your lift pump works fine, but the OPS gets smoked, and then it quits. You think the pump is bad, but it’s not.
Can I just eliminate the OPS? Well, be careful, it is a safety device in some people’s eyes, and to the rest of us, a pain in the rump. Eyes, rump, pick your part. Anyway. If you just “jump past” the OPS, then your pump will run all the time. Not just all the time, but ALL THE TIME. Christmas and Easter included. It will stop when your batteries are dead. Because, while you are grocery shopping, that pump is running. While you are down for a long winter’s nap, it’s pumping. Doesn’t matter if the key is on or off, it’s pumping.
You can make up another circuit and repower it some other way, but be careful how you do it. Some methods have kept the truck running after the ignition is shut off and keys in pocket.
Back to our little friend the lift pump.
Last edited by Crazy; 01-30-2012 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#3
01-30-2012, 06:04 PM
The lift pump may fail in a variety of different ways. It may fail “open” meaning that the coil driving the pump no longer has continuity. It may fail mechanically where it is just frozen and nothing moves. It may even (not as often) fail to pump. This means, it makes noise, but doesn’t actually pump.
Does the lift pump make noise? Yes it does. The model year of your truck will determine if your lift pump is powered during the Wait To Start period. That’s the time where that light is on before actually starting your engine. '96-up OBD2 models pre-run the lift pump during WTS and during START, '94-'95 OBD1 models pre-run the lift pump only during START.
The lift pump is characterized by a kind of “purring” noise heard beneath the truck. That noise is quickly drowned out by the engine, once started. When you shut your engine off, you will hear that pump run briefly, maybe only a quick second or two. If you shut your engine off when cold, you will hear the pump run much longer, sometimes up to 30 seconds or more.
A loud clacking noise would indicate no fuel from the tank, or the lift pump is failing or failed - it will run without pumping fuel when the one-way valve(s) fail.
A faint purring or vibration when touching the lp body indicates it is running, but the internal valve-shuttle armature is stuck due to mechanical failure.
So what kind of problems will it cause if the lift pump isn’t working? Many. It will cause all sorts of fuel related issues*. It can be some of the following:
°Stumbling
°Hard Starting
°Lack of Power
°DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on the Computer
°Stalling
There are be other* issues too, but these seem to be a very (un)popular list.
Where do I get one of these? Some of our site vendors, or any of the popular auto parts stores, or the dealership. More often than not, the auto parts store is a good bet for Ineeditrightnow.
Ask for the version for the '93 6.5TD truck - it is a direct-fit HD replacement that will supply increased fuel pressure and volume to the Inj Pump, which is a good improvement for the '94-up EFI trucks.
FYI: don't mention that you have a '94-up truck, or you will just confuse the parts guy\gal - just describe your truck and drivetrain as a '93.
The ACDelco or Delphi lift pumps are the best replacement, which you can get from O'Reilley's or NAPA , and some of the site vendors, such as Heath Diesel.
Also FYI: the parts-guy\gal may call it a fuel pump.
Are they difficult to change? No - loosen the tubing-fitting nuts on either end, remove and reinstall. Now, if it were only really that easy. Let’s get real here, no camera out-takes…. You’ll end up getting a Diesel bath. You see, depending upon how much fuel is in your tank, there will be fuel that wants to come out of the fuel line. Be ready, because your chances of a date after changing that lift pump dwindle a bunch, unless they are really into the smell of a Diesel cologne. J
After the successful fuel lift system repair you will need to refill the fuel filter cannister - after opening the air-bleed valve, which is the plastic nut on the very top of the metal cap, power up the lift pump, then close the air bleed when the bubbles stop and fuel begins spurting out - if you still get no fuel, you likely have a stopped-up fuel filter - no need to tell you what to do in that event, right?
FYI: after successful fuel flow out the air-bleed, the engine may take a while to restart and run as the Inj Pump begins to draw fuel from the filter, fills internally, then starts pump-up to 1900psi injection pressures.
This is at least enough to get you started on your lift pump journey.
Does the lift pump make noise? Yes it does. The model year of your truck will determine if your lift pump is powered during the Wait To Start period. That’s the time where that light is on before actually starting your engine. '96-up OBD2 models pre-run the lift pump during WTS and during START, '94-'95 OBD1 models pre-run the lift pump only during START.
The lift pump is characterized by a kind of “purring” noise heard beneath the truck. That noise is quickly drowned out by the engine, once started. When you shut your engine off, you will hear that pump run briefly, maybe only a quick second or two. If you shut your engine off when cold, you will hear the pump run much longer, sometimes up to 30 seconds or more.
A loud clacking noise would indicate no fuel from the tank, or the lift pump is failing or failed - it will run without pumping fuel when the one-way valve(s) fail.
A faint purring or vibration when touching the lp body indicates it is running, but the internal valve-shuttle armature is stuck due to mechanical failure.
So what kind of problems will it cause if the lift pump isn’t working? Many. It will cause all sorts of fuel related issues*. It can be some of the following:
°Stumbling
°Hard Starting
°Lack of Power
°DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on the Computer
°Stalling
There are be other* issues too, but these seem to be a very (un)popular list.
Where do I get one of these? Some of our site vendors, or any of the popular auto parts stores, or the dealership. More often than not, the auto parts store is a good bet for Ineeditrightnow.
Ask for the version for the '93 6.5TD truck - it is a direct-fit HD replacement that will supply increased fuel pressure and volume to the Inj Pump, which is a good improvement for the '94-up EFI trucks.
FYI: don't mention that you have a '94-up truck, or you will just confuse the parts guy\gal - just describe your truck and drivetrain as a '93.
The ACDelco or Delphi lift pumps are the best replacement, which you can get from O'Reilley's or NAPA , and some of the site vendors, such as Heath Diesel.
Also FYI: the parts-guy\gal may call it a fuel pump.
Are they difficult to change? No - loosen the tubing-fitting nuts on either end, remove and reinstall. Now, if it were only really that easy. Let’s get real here, no camera out-takes…. You’ll end up getting a Diesel bath. You see, depending upon how much fuel is in your tank, there will be fuel that wants to come out of the fuel line. Be ready, because your chances of a date after changing that lift pump dwindle a bunch, unless they are really into the smell of a Diesel cologne. J
After the successful fuel lift system repair you will need to refill the fuel filter cannister - after opening the air-bleed valve, which is the plastic nut on the very top of the metal cap, power up the lift pump, then close the air bleed when the bubbles stop and fuel begins spurting out - if you still get no fuel, you likely have a stopped-up fuel filter - no need to tell you what to do in that event, right?
FYI: after successful fuel flow out the air-bleed, the engine may take a while to restart and run as the Inj Pump begins to draw fuel from the filter, fills internally, then starts pump-up to 1900psi injection pressures.
This is at least enough to get you started on your lift pump journey.
#4
01-30-2012, 07:09 PM
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Thanks for the info Crazy ... I do not have a check engine light lit up so I have not checked for computer codes. Would I have any without the check engine light?
Also, I do not have any problem with my starter as I have replaced the old one recently with one that seems to turn strongly. I will say it turns plenty and my batteries are fairly new. When I have these problems it may take 20-30 attempts to crank before the engine finally turns over.
The most consistent cure for the problems I have mentioned are to let the truck sit for 30-45 mins and then it usually cranks immediately and runs strong. Would the PMD, LP, OPS course be the best troubleshooting?
Also, I do not have any problem with my starter as I have replaced the old one recently with one that seems to turn strongly. I will say it turns plenty and my batteries are fairly new. When I have these problems it may take 20-30 attempts to crank before the engine finally turns over.
The most consistent cure for the problems I have mentioned are to let the truck sit for 30-45 mins and then it usually cranks immediately and runs strong. Would the PMD, LP, OPS course be the best troubleshooting?
#5
01-30-2012, 07:16 PM
Thanks for the info Crazy ... I do not have a check engine light lit up so I have not checked for computer codes. Would I have any without the check engine light?
Also, I do not have any problem with my starter as I have replaced the old one recently with one that seems to turn strongly. I will say it turns plenty and my batteries are fairly new. When I have these problems it may take 20-30 attempts to crank before the engine finally turns over.
The most consistent cure for the problems I have mentioned are to let the truck sit for 30-45 mins and then it usually cranks immediately and runs strong. Would the PMD, LP, OPS course be the best troubleshooting?
Also, I do not have any problem with my starter as I have replaced the old one recently with one that seems to turn strongly. I will say it turns plenty and my batteries are fairly new. When I have these problems it may take 20-30 attempts to crank before the engine finally turns over.
The most consistent cure for the problems I have mentioned are to let the truck sit for 30-45 mins and then it usually cranks immediately and runs strong. Would the PMD, LP, OPS course be the best troubleshooting?
yes that where i would start with OPS and LP test.
1. Locate ADL port below dash.
2. Insert paperclip or similar wire. (see photo)
3. KOEO (Key On Engine Off) watch SES light.
4. SES (check engine) light will blink out codes. It will flash, then short pause, then flash again, then long pause between codes. Example: flash, (pause), flash, flash (long pause) is code12 for no RPM. This code is always present.
Example 2: Flash, flash, flash (pause) flash, flash, flash, (long pause) = code 33. The computer will continue to scroll through the codes and generally begins and ends with 3 code 12's, with important codes being shown in between.
Read Codes
Error Codes
NOTE: All DTC(S) with the * sign are automatic transmission (4L80E) related
DTC 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault
DTC 14 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp
Indicated)
DTC 15 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp
Indicated)
DTC 16 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Buffer Fault
DTC 17 - High Resolution Circuit Fault
DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error
DTC 21 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit High
DTC 22 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Low
DTC 23 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Range Fault
*DTC 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low (Output Speed Signal)
DTC 25 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit High
DTC 26 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit Low
DTC 27 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit Range Fault
*DTC 28 - Transmission Range Pressure Switch Circuit
DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 31 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum)
DTC 32 - EGR Circuit Error
DTC 33 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit High
DTC 34 - Injection Timing Stepper Motor Fault
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Response Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Response Time Long)
*DTC 37 - TCC Brake Switch Stuck "ON"
*DTC 38 - TCC Brake Switch Stuck "OFF"
*DTC 39 - TCC Stuck "OFF"
DTC 41 - Brake Switch Circuit Fault
DTC 42 - Fuel Temperature Circuit Low (High Temp Indicated)
DTC 43 - Fuel Temperature Circuit High (Low Temp Indicated)
DTC 44 - EGR Pulse Width Error
DTC 45 - EGR Vent Error
DTC 46 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit Fault
DTC 47 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp Indicated)
DTC 48 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp Indicated)
DTC 49 - Service Throttle Soon Lamp Circuit Fault
DTC 51 - PROM Error
*DTC 52 - System Voltage High Long
*DTC 53 - System Voltage High
DTC 54 PCM fuel circuit error
DTC 56 - Injection Pump Calibration Resistor Error
*DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted
*DTC 58 - Transmission Fluid Temp Circuit Low
*DTC 59 - Transmission Fluid Temp Circuit High
DTC 61 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit High
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 63 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit High
DTC 64 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit Low
DTC 65 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit Range Fault
*DTC 68 - Transmission Component Slipping
*DTC 69 - TCC Stuck "ON"
DTC 71 - Set/Coast Switch Fault (Cruise Control)
*DTC 72 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Loss (Output Speed Signal)
*DTC 73 - Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit (Current Error)
*DTC 74 - Transmission Input Speed (TIS) Sensor Circuit
*DTC 75 - System Voltage Low
DTC 76 - Resume/Accel Switch Fault (Cruise Control)
DTC 78 - Turbo Wastegate Solenoid Fault
*DTC 79 - Transmission Fluid Over-temperature
*DTC 81 - 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Fault
*DTC 82 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Fault
*DTC 83 - TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Fault
*DTC 84 - Accelerator Pedal Position Circuit Fault
*DTC 85 - Undefined Ratio Error
*DTC 86 - Low Ratio Error
*DTC 87 - High Ratio Error
DTC 88 - TDC (Top Dead Center) Offset Error
DTC 91 - #1 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 92 - #2 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 93 - #3 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 94 - #4 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 95 - #5 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 96 - #6 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 97 - #7 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 98 - #8 Cylinder Balance Fault
DTC 99 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 (5 Volt Reference Fault)
#6
01-30-2012, 07:21 PM
#7
01-31-2012, 06:54 AM
Don't forget about the ignition switch. Have seen many mystery problems with GM s similar to what you are describing all caused by intermittent connections in the ignition switch. Do you have any other things shutting down at the same time. Or is there a security system on the vehicle?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Also it would be worth looking at all your grounds for being clean and tight. As well as battery connections. And as crazy said check all connections at the starter.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Also it would be worth looking at all your grounds for being clean and tight. As well as battery connections. And as crazy said check all connections at the starter.
Last edited by MX02; 01-31-2012 at 06:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
01-31-2012, 04:26 PM
Join Date: Jan 2012
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I performed the LP test today and when I turn the T-valve while idling I have a steady stream of diesel coming from the tube. Also, the bleeder valve on top of the fuel filter puts out diesel when opened and idling. I assume this means my LP is functioning OK?
I did not mention before a few other problems that may or may not relate to my problem. My fuel level indicator does not seem correct. It fluctuates wildly and sometimes reads WAY past Full when I put fuel in it. It will come back down but it seems that I have way less fuel than what the guage reads. I never let it get below 1/2 tank for fear that I am going to run out of diesel. Also, I sometimes have the tachometer bouncing around as I am driving and sometimes not working at all. Most of the time it is reading correct and steady. Also, my battery light sometimes flickers as I am driving.
There never appears to be any consistency to any of this, including the major problem which is shut down and refusal to restart.
Let me know where to go from here folks and thanks for the input so far.
I did not mention before a few other problems that may or may not relate to my problem. My fuel level indicator does not seem correct. It fluctuates wildly and sometimes reads WAY past Full when I put fuel in it. It will come back down but it seems that I have way less fuel than what the guage reads. I never let it get below 1/2 tank for fear that I am going to run out of diesel. Also, I sometimes have the tachometer bouncing around as I am driving and sometimes not working at all. Most of the time it is reading correct and steady. Also, my battery light sometimes flickers as I am driving.
There never appears to be any consistency to any of this, including the major problem which is shut down and refusal to restart.
Let me know where to go from here folks and thanks for the input so far.
#9
01-31-2012, 04:41 PM
your alternator could be messing up your hold truck cause the alternator run the tack witch tell computer what rpm's your at and the computer rest truck how much fuel to gave
Check the wires good at the alternator also check havey wire at fuse box under the hood make sure it tight and clean
Check the wires good at the alternator also check havey wire at fuse box under the hood make sure it tight and clean
#10
02-02-2012, 04:30 PM
Your running problem sounds like a PMD on it's way out.
Do you have a spare to try?
Everyone with a DS4 IP needs to have a spare in the glove box.
It's not a matter of if you'll need it, but when.
And it's never a convenient time when they go out. It's always the worst time. My last one failed with my 34 foot trailer in tow, waiting as a drawbridge was dropping on a two lane causeway and traffic lined up for miles both ways. That could have been nasty, but I jumped out, plugged in the spare and drove away. Got a 7 year warranty one on it now, hopefully it lives up to the promise.
It's more important on an electric 6.5 IP equipped truck than making sure your spare tire is good.
A failing PMD can set active fault codes (light on) or history/stored/pending fault codes (no light).
Pull 'em and see whatcha got....
Do you have a spare to try?
Everyone with a DS4 IP needs to have a spare in the glove box.
It's not a matter of if you'll need it, but when.
And it's never a convenient time when they go out. It's always the worst time. My last one failed with my 34 foot trailer in tow, waiting as a drawbridge was dropping on a two lane causeway and traffic lined up for miles both ways. That could have been nasty, but I jumped out, plugged in the spare and drove away. Got a 7 year warranty one on it now, hopefully it lives up to the promise.
It's more important on an electric 6.5 IP equipped truck than making sure your spare tire is good.
A failing PMD can set active fault codes (light on) or history/stored/pending fault codes (no light).
Pull 'em and see whatcha got....
Last edited by great white; 02-02-2012 at 04:36 PM.
