some ECM will not let truck run if don't at least #er 5 in it

 

Let us know the results after you install the new pmd.

 

I finally got around to working on the truck yesterday. I installed the new PMD and the truck runs flawlessly. This is the 3rd time for the PMD, every time it acted different. Why do these keep going bad? Mine is mounted in front bumper. I hope someday someone figures out a permenant fix for these things instead of a temporary fix.

 

Hi Guys!
I also have a 6.5 L diesel in my '95 suburban. I got a problem with it. At a certain point, my air conditionning stop by gripping bearing and i stop the engine ( who was running perfectly until then ) so du to lack of money, i stored the vehicule for 3 years without trying to start it . Now i have replace air conditionning and also alternator but engine refuse to start. I read that the fuel manager filter could be dry, so i open the cap and fill it in fuel and after add a shot of ether in the air filter compartment and some starting, the engine start, run for few sec but stop. I try to start it again just the normal way nothing happen. When i turn the key off, i ear the electric pump running and stop after few sec. i tried, (after charging my batteries at full) to do the same method and forget the the cap open and some fuel dripped on the engine and the ground ( what tell me the pump is working )

So i tried that method ( with cap closed ) and the engine run well but just for few sec...What could be the problem now if everything was perfect before ???

Some use letter like PMD but as not an native english, if the right word could be place in parenteses for comprehension please, i would greatly appreciate. )


So, someone got knowledge to suggest me where is the problem to cotrrect ?

I was owner of 20 vehicules before, all gazoline, it is my first one with injection and diesel...i am lost...
I like diesel but it is quite new and apparently very easy to run ???

Thank's in advance for your guidance..

Mike

 

Whitemanfromhil I am sorry I couldnt get back to you sooner but it sounded like you nailed the problem!

Now lets see if we can help TOPAZJ! What I Would suggest is first make sure your fuel delivery system is working. Make sure your system is primed.sounded like your fuel system got air into it because you had to ad fuel in the fuel filter. Make sure you have good pressure on yor line comming from your fuel pump at the tank, there is a bleeding valve front and center of the motor (you will see the fuel line going to it) or disconnect fuel line,(this line goes to fuel filter) Have someone turn key,fuel pump at tank should cycle and fuel should come out about 5 or 6 PSI. If that is working,connect back up and crack the bleeder at the top of filter and turn key and wait until you get nothing but fuel commming out (no air !!) and then close the bleeder.
Now you need to find your #1 cylinder which I think is the first one on right side of engine in the front (looking at the engine) where the steel line goes into the top of the injecter, you need to get a wrench and crack that nut open. Have someone turn the engine over until you see fuel spraying out. Close, then stop turning motor over and go to the next injecter,then repeat. IF the motor wants to run and fuel is squirting out,close and move to the next injecter and repeat by cracking the nut until the engine stays running and sounds like it is firing on all cylinders. (Make sure your batteries are fully charged before you start this test!)

Let us know what you did and if it made a diferance and if not we will move foward.
Big joe

 

Witemanfromhil the reason your pmd keeps failing.is because when people relocate them in the bumper they dont have adequet enough cooling airflow at speeds of 20mph or less especially idle. Mounting them in the grill in front of radiator so much more open to wind and at idle your engine fan will actually draw air towards it as well. this is where mines mounted and haven had a problem with it at all

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Toppazj ...the last thing you wanna do is spray either in a diesel engine that uses glow plugs...unless u wanna use it for boat anchor..if u absolutely must spray something use something less comustionate such as carb cleaner did u leave a bunch of fuel in your tank without any conditioner for storing? was vehichle stored in tge winter with summer blend fuel?

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*ether

 

There is absolutely no problem with mounting the PMD/resistor/heatsink combo behind the bumper as long as heat transfer paste/pad is used between the PMD and the heatsink,and the PMD is torqued to 20-25" pounds to the heatsink.

Airflow is not required to remove the heat generated by the PMD when a adequately sized heatsink is used.

All PMD's fail eventually,about 2-3 years is all the average PMD tends to last.
Installation quality is a big factor in this.

I have heard that for Heath's 7 year warranty PMD combo's,he mills the PMD base and his aluminum heatsink to ensure a true flat surface at the point of contact and torques the screws to spec with the proper heat transfer medium in place?
Even then he has a warranty claims.

 

Racer I challenge the assertion that "all PMDs" fail 2-3 years, not berzactly a quality relocation is off IP out of engine bay is required for maximum life. My 2 Heath relocation one with 8 years on it now and the 2nd with 6 on it both well beyond 2-3 year point. A experiment I did a few years back led me to the Heath solution. FSD/PMD "Points to Ponder" How hot does it get

My current 8 year remoted driver is mounted inside my Buckstop bumper been there since 2005 when I added the bumper. Properly sized sink is key, airflow only critical if one uses too small a sink. I've resurrected several "bad drivers" by retorque od the transistor locknuts as well. Bill attributes longevity to his setup to flatness and torque of driver to the sink, but as you correctly state even he has to sometimes honor the warranty, as the driver itself is still made of parts that can fail.

Topaz some of the info for a basic troubleshooting checklist here :6.5 Engine Diagnostic Troubleshooting Checklist

 

Turbine Doc,I said all PMD's fail eventually and on average 2-3 years is the going rate of life.

Some as you well know live far beyond that even on the IP.

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Tim,what are your thoughts on anodized surfaces for heatsinks?
A great many aluminum parts are anodized to prevent oxidation and I wonder what effect that has on thermal properties?

 

I've been told that anodized has some insulating properties so may not be best for heat xfer properties, certainly I would not want it to be anodized from a electrical continuity perspective at point of contact, that said I have an old DSG anodized sink I carry as a spare, but that same sink when mounted under hood several locations is where I had my multi fails (some recoverable some not) of drivers.

I think Bill's method mill flat to sink & mill flat to driver is good way to go then a thermal epoxy (he has never said what brand) to seal the perifery of joint where the mating occurs