po216 injection timing control circuit, p1214 injection pump timing offset... wel today I notice that my oil presure gauge had fluttered a time or two and today it went dead but I have good oil presure checked it with a maual gauge and was reading that the ops9(oil presure switch) also regulates the the lift pump, so I checked my lift pump and it was not working no juice going to it, so I did more research and found that the injection pump timing was partly regulated by fuel pressure and with the lift pump not working that it would have less pressure going into the pump causing the ip to do all the work and not being able to maintain the proper timing. I belive if the ops was out causing the lift pump not to work causing less fuel preasure overworking the ip that it could possibly be the problem and it would also cause the pmd to over heat and go out causing the ip to be completly destroyed. does anyone on here agree with my theory or am I just way off?



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yes the ops can do that and i would think about replacing it. a pmd wont trash an injection pump its the other way around. but running a ip without a lift pump will kill the ip. relocate the pmd to the bumper and get a new pmd. than see if truck will run. get a ops in there too and a decent lift pump

 

You don't sound to far off. If the lift pump is out it would cause the injection pump to work harder. I don't know if it would change the timing but I could see how it would. Low fuel pressure could possibly cause a pmd failure but I would say it is unlikely. It wouldn't be unlikely that the i/p failed because of low fuel pressure. When the fuel pressure is low it causes the pump to work harder reduces lubrication and increases heat. I would get the fuel pump working and see how it runs. I still think you have a injector bad causing the knock but we know the lift pump is not working so I would get it working first.

 

can you hook up a straight 12 volts or does the pump have a resistor inline to reduce the voltage. I could not find that in the chiltons book I have or the haynes diesel manual.

 

You can hook 12 volt to it but you have to figure out what one of the 2 wires going to it is the positive.

 

I just hooked a meter to it there is a black wire and a light brown wire.. the light brown wire there is nothing but using the black wire as a ground I get juice from other source of positive (tail lights) so the black is negative and the light brown is positive.

 

Sounds right to me.

 

well I put a fast switch on the lift pump and went out to the local truck stop and got fuel started the truck up and turned the pump on the n thr truck died. It started right back up and I pulled up to a red light sat there for a minute and noticed the truck had quite a bit of white smoke coming out, as I pulled out the white smoke poured out and the truck acted like it was over loading I turned my switch off the truck picked up in power and quit smoking but started surging a little as I went down the rod I turned the pump back on and it ran good but still surged a bit and at idle acts like it trying to overload. it has been a while since I changed the air and fuel filters I will change them tommorrow to see if the extra fuel is now starving the truck for air or just not able to get through the fuel filter.

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well today the lift pump is all working, I changed the air and fuel filter, bled the air out of the filter cleared the codes and started the truck and let it run for about 15 to 20 minutes, then I took it up the road on a test everything was going good no smoke except black when I got on the fuel the thing was running good until it got up to operating temp then i slowed down to make a turn shifted into 3rd and started to go and the truck stumble no misses just had no power and blowed out a ton of white then grey smoke for about 5 seconds then picked back up and went on down the road. after I got back home i turned it off and let it set for a minute then went back out and restarted the ses light came back on but it idles fine then when I give it alittle fuel a lot of white then grey smoke the rpms then pick back up and the smoke clears now I only have a loss of power at operating temp and at low rpms otherwise at speeds above 30 it has plenty of power and does not smoke unless I hammer on the throttle then its black. sorry so long winded just wanted to get in all the details... any suggestions with it stumbling and smoking and loosing power only at operating temps. I believe I wil check the fuel return line then I will get a new pmd with relocation kit and go from there unless there is something I need to try first.

Thanks for all the help

Sam

 

I would go with the pmd being bad. As the truck gets hot things start to break down in it.

Did the truck stop knocking?

 

No it still has the knock,but today I had a chance to talk to a diesel mechanic which he asked how many miles the truck has on it and I told him that it has 166432 he said that it could be in part due to the timing chain could have streched wich he said all do and that it would not hurt anything it just changed the timing on slightly on the engine inwhich would throw the timing off on the ip possibly causing the knock but I have not ruled out the bad injector that you told me about.I believe that the pmd is one of the main problems for after it warms up, but a stretched timing chain may be the reason for the codes p0216 ip circuit malfuntion and p1214 ip timing offset, because I thought if the pmd went out would not throw any codes. but I am still new to this

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Today I marked and advanced my ip by about 1mm runs alot smoother took it up the road drove around for a bout 30 minutes with no problems, no more white or grey smoke and no more surging, the ses light is still on but I am going to try and let it reset itsself, truck still seems a little under powered I may try to advance the ip a 1/2 mm tommorrow to see if it improves alittle more. motor still has a slight knock but has improved by advancing the timing I can still hear it. so we will see how it does. on another note as I was getting everything ready to advance the timing i started noticing that alot of stuff had been removed before and when I put a wrench on the bottom 2 ip bolts they was loose so the previous owner has done something to it, and I believe that the ip had been replacedand possibly not ever been timed correctly or just moved, we will see