I have always wanted a 6.2 n/a in a k5 blazer or surburban. I do have an 88 k5 with a fresh rebuilt 305 and turbo 350 tranny. I really want something dependable that will run forever to drive to and around the deer lease. And honestly gas burners just dont do it for me anymore. I know the 6.2s dont have all the power in the world but just the sound and mpg are well worth it. Would i be better off just selling the k5 and buying one with a diesel? Because swapping the engines sounds entirely too easy i mean there has to be something complicated im overlooking. Could i keep the same radiator? What about the glowplugs? Would i have to take out the in-tank fuel pump? Any info would be helpful thanks -

Your going to have to swap the radiator cause it's going to have a few more cores for extra cooling, plumb a fuel return line if there isn't one there already, run a couple wires and a switch for the glow plug solenoid, drop the fuel tank(s) and remove all the gas, and add a second battery tray. Who knows, the diesel suburban or blazer might be a little nicer.



Bill -

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i might be doing this with my truck too. i've got an 82 k10 that i'm getting 5mpg in with a 350 and i just had a 6.2 come up for sale near me -

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Bill -

how much more will a 6.2 weigh than a 350? -

Don't know exactly, but it's close to 200#. Cylinder heads almost weigh as much as an entire 350. Not really, but it seems like it. -

ok some more info on my truck, i won't really be looking for too much power from this, really just a daily driver with better mileage than what i'm getting now. i have a 700r4 and currently my axles are geared at 4.56 and i plan on running either 33s or 35s depending on what i can find cheap. i have been reading around here about people getting up towards 25mpg out of these engines what drivetrains are those trucks running and how will the 700r4 hold up to daily driving without much towing planned?

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also i've only got a year left of college, then i shouldn't have to worry about money so much -

700R4's are good trannys, just as long as you shift out of OD while towing or daily driving, especially with bigger tires. It jumps in and out of OD, but @ cruising speeds, you'll be ok. They get hot fast cause the transmission cooler is nothing more than a heat exchanger, and the fluid is cooled to what ever the engine temp is. If you can get an aftermarket kit, it would do a world of good. Don't worry about power, they only put out about 170ish hp. -

here's the description

GM 6.2 liter Diesel, Out of a blazer

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See if you can still turn the engine over by hand. Might have to spray fogging oil into the cylinders. Also, grab a screwdriver, small tip, and remove the cover w/ the solenoids on the injector pump. If it's still full of fuel, good, if not bad, may be able to dump diesel/two cycle oil in it, to help combat corrosion. Roosa-Master pumps are real touchy when it come to sitting for along time after they have been re-built, then ran, then sat dry. Worse case scenario, need to have the pump rebuild. -

i'm probably going to pick this engine up this weekend. what should i do to it before i put it in the truck. i'll probably do glow plugs and set the valve lash. anything else i should look at while its out in the open? -

Replace: glow plugs and rear main seal. Get a lift pump blank kit and go w/ an electric fuel pump. Valve lash is a no go, cause they don't adjust. Have to remove the injector pump to do valve covers. I guess while you have the glow plugs out, squirt some hydraulic oil into the cylinders. It sounds wrong, but hyd. oil does a real good job of dissolving rust. Let it sit over night then come out the next morning and spin it over by hand. Check the flex plate for missing teeth, condition of freeze plugs-replace if necessary. -

alright i picked it up yesterday. i was able to turn it over pretty easily with a breaker bar but i couldn't figure out what cover to take off the injection pump so i haven't looked there yet. also what are the freeze plugs and can i get some more info on what type of lift pump i should get and where i should look for one?

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The lid on the injector pump will have two sets of wires and a small hose going into it. There are 3 bolts that hold it in place. Be careful removing it, there is an o-ring type gasket. Freeze/soft plugs will probably be ok. Did the engine sit outside, or was it still bolted up in the outfit? -

the engine sat in the basement of a barn for 6 years but it seems pretty clean, there aren't any rats nests in the intake or anything like that. everything seems to be there but i guess i'll find out if there are some wires missing when i start to put it in. it even has an a/c pump my truck has an a/c system but no pump right now so maybe i'll get the a/c going again eventually.

i was able to break free all the glow plugs pretty easily today. i thought that would be a nightmare and i would be breaking them off in the block left and right but they all loosened up easily.

i'll probably take a look at the injection pump tomorow and start buying the parts for it. right now it looks like i need a fan blade, maybe a clutch, some hoses, fuel, oil and air filters, glow plugs, a starter, maybe an alternator, electric lift pump, radiator, and rear main seal.

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a few more questions

1. do i really need to run oil cooler lines?

2. how do i wire up the dual batteries? i'm assuming in parallel and what components should i use to do that. some kindo of bus or just splice the wires somehow? i'm kindof new to wiring

3. how do i wire up the glow plug solenoid?

4. where are the block identification numbers on one of these engines?

5. can i get some more info on what type of electric lift pump to run

thanks for all the help so far. -