Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD

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Old 02-25-2013, 04:47 PM
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Default 1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD

I just bought this truck and so far I love it, rides like a dream. The guy put new batteries in it but they seem small (AMP wise 525 CCA) Are they? It doesn't crank very fast when cold.
I also changed the oil and was able to use a two quart filter (S373 STP brand) which makes a change 8 quarts total.
There is also a "banging" noise once in a while coming from under the dash, almost like a vent door is sticking?
I also replaced the "Coolant temp. switch" I drove it around today and it seemed to take a long time to reach 186 degrees and that's where it stays. Is this a normal running temp?
 
Attached Thumbnails 1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD-3500-005.jpg   1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD-3500lights-002.jpg   1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD-cid_555.jpg  
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:35 PM
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Batts need to be 700+CCA for cold weather starts.

HVAC door motors do have linkage problems on these as well as become disabled by time when the door separates from its axle shaft.

I prefer 192F Tstats and use only AC Delco stats in these trucks,sounds like your stat may be stuck open?
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:44 PM
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Diesels take a longer time to get warm, their burning of the fuel is just so much lower in temperature compared to gas engines. 1250 degrees is hot for a diesel where that is "cold" relative to the gas engines. Lower burning temperatures = slower warm up, I could drive about 7 miles (55 mph @ 1750 rpm) after a 5 minute warm up and barely get to the operating temp, I think its about 185 degrees or so.
Those batteries are way to small for a diesel, those are like Ford Ranger size batteries. It be worth getting a new set of 700 cca batteries. How cold is your cold, here in Montana cold is different than when I lived in New Mexico, as the weather gets colder, the oil gets thicker, and if you've ever tried to add oil when its 10 degrees out, that diesel oil is thick, might run synthetic during winter. (I personally don't, I don't think a $50 oil change is worth it)
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:43 PM
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Loose the batteries you have ASAP get the biggest CCa you can with the batteries you have now you will kill that starter in no time at all and staters are not cheap and can be a pain to change out on these trucks and dont buty into the optima thing total waste of money IMO
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:11 PM
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Wallmart has a good deal on batteries-just be sure to get the ones manufactured by Johnson Controls or Delphi-avoid the Excide junk.
 
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:03 AM
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Yes starters are a major pain, my solenoids keep dieing on me when it gets cold. Not a pain to take off anymore, I can get it off, "fixed", and back on in under an hour now, not a good sign (too much practice).

But to more amps really help? Mine are 700 cca, but I can get it started now in one or two turns, no real hard cranking.
 
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:32 AM
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Having the reserve in cold weather is the main benefit of more CCA,plus a little more punch when first cranking.
 
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:02 PM
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Thanks for the replies. As soon as I get a my other truck sold I'm going with two new larger AMP batteries. I did verify the temp with an Infra red and it's agrees with the gauge. I do have another problem I just noticed, before it's fully warmed up the "SES" light will light up when accelerating and go out when I level off my speed. The truck runs great, isn't sucking excessive fuel or idling bad. It does barf out a blackish cloud when first started cold.
I brought this truck in from Nevada and Commiefornia requires a weight certificate so I removed the spare, the tailgate and the tool box from the bed had an 1/8 tank of fuel and it still weighed 6040 Lbs!
 
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:59 PM
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The cloud is alright, healthy for a diesel to smoke off the start. If its white, just means that the fuel is cold, black smoke is a good sign that the glow plugs are working good. Mine, even with manual glow plugs, I'll fill up the parking lot at the dorms with white smoke when I cold start it, needless to say, I try to park close of the people from the liberal side of California. Can't really help for the SES light, unless you can get the code. But if it is only during acceleration, might have something to do with the turbo, when accelerating is being used and when you let off the pedal, you don't really use the turbo. Hope this helps.

As for the weight, that is light for a dually, don't know what the state is complaining about, my dad's d-max is stock and weighs 7600 lbs I think, its a 4wd though. Why I picked petroleum engineering as my major, trying to stay away from California, oddly enough, about 10 other people in this major are from there.
 
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:29 PM
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Well, I changed out those batteries for a pair of 1000 CA batteries. Lets just say it cranks a whole lot better. I also changed all the GP's it still takes a few cranks but it runs much smoother once it starts. After I changed the batts the GP light only stays on for a few seconds? Does it have to re-learn or something? I also found the starter bracket hanging in the breeze so I located a 5/16 thread bolt and secured it.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD-glowplugs_001.jpg   1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD-glowplugs_002.jpg   1994 C3500 dually 6.5 TD-glowplugs_004.jpg  


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