With a 94 it could be a OPS causing the problem, or a weak lift pump, dirty filter, dirty in tank sock, tank is the cheapest drain fuel-drop tank remove the sender unit and see if sock filter in tank is clean, reinstall. The test gauge is around $20, fuel filter about $28-30 to replace, since you can't afford those you need to park the truck until you can put some money/time to it. Could be rotten fuel lines letting air be sucked in but in order to know we have to start diagnosing the problem.

A tow if you break down & get stranded is $75 & up depending how far from home you are so a little investment now can save much expense & pain later.

You have an 18 almost 19 year old truck on your hands and you are what 2nd-3rd-4th ???? owner this vehicle with actual unknown history how well it was treated.

Only way to fix this & make it reliable is to restore it back to a know baseline testing everything that makes sense via specific diagnostics, and replace parts as required vs a SWAG attempt to what it might be.

6.5s aren't bought they are built especially one this old, they got a bad reputation because few understood what can and can not be done with them, and few willing to learn about them, maybe the 6.5 isn't for you, they do take a little elbow grease at 1st but once you get it set up a more reliable/powerful Diesel to own for the $$$ you will not find.

 

put a new egr in 2 days ago cost me 200$, the truck has been sitting and i am 100% trying to get it back to baseline testing. i know how much a fuel filter is, i really need a link on how to install one. tomorrow i will check the tank sock. as far the 6.5 not being the one for me really isn't the issue here, i can only learn so much in a weeks time.

 

Why did you put in a new EGR, take that back if you can they never go bad, and if they do go bad they can be easily be bypassed, in addition they don't do what smog police intended for them to be doing, 6.5 & most Diesels do not get hot enough to try to reburn UHCs in engine or on a common Cat aka "soot trap"

Changing filter is easy, look at picture link I sent you.

Open drain valve (center front of engine brass body chrome tee handle) drains bowl to the ground, then turn off lock black plastic lock ring, remove filter pulling straight up, depending how dirty filter is you may want to "mop out" inside the bowl with a rag on end of screwdriver, close drain valve fill bowl about 3/4 full then install new filter keeping wide index key on filter bowl matched to wide slot in bottom lip of the filter.

Open vent **** on the top of the filter, in your ALDL diagnostics plug put a jumper to 12v+ to pin G and that will force lift pump to run so you can purge air from the filter bowl. Stop purging fuel when it starts bubbling out top of filter, close vent plug and go for test drive.

 

^^^ what he said

plus have you climbed under to see if has cat?
blow by smoke from oil filler tube?

 

I wasn't trying to be a smart *** here my comment was based around I don't really know much about you or your abilities as a mechanic, from what I'm reading from your posts you don't have much if any 6.5 experience, which is not a big thing but takes us a different direction in way we explain things to you.

I've been wrenching on things since I was about 7 and just entered my 51st year on God's green earth, if I suggest offhand to check X item it is not meant to be a derisive comment or an affront to your capabilites.

If you don't understand please let us know what part of what was said didn't make sense in as much detail around the subject so we can better advise on it, I don't know of a link how to actually change a fuel filter I may have to work on that myself as it is sort of intuitive to a gear head, with exception of maybe how to prime the bowl, not to worry I was sort of in your shoes back in 2000 when I bought my 1st 6.5 long learning curve but not impossible.

 

Just adding to that, ability to learn usually requires financial ability... I am on my 2nd motor, along with lot$$ of parts... fortunately I have connections for parts, a shop (mechanic for Jeep tour company), over 35 years turning wrenches (mostly hobby, but a lot was necessity) and enjoy reading MENSA magazine. The cost of learning workings of the 6.5 has been high (more than value of vehicle), but I have enjoyed it and therefore it has been worth it.

Because of the intricacies, if one does not have the $$ for filters, access to scanners, shop and a desire to learn / take advice, the 6.5 is not for them (I stopped BMW's and Mercedes a while ago because as interesting as they are, they were not for me and therefore learning was a bad investment).

Has been 3.5 years, 2 engines, 1 injection pump, 1 alternator, bunch of other stuff since I bought the 6.5 burb, last "lesson" took a year (sat at shop) to figure out (kind of). If you cannot "afford" such stuff....