Does anyone have marine injectors in there 6.5? Are they a big difference then the stock ones? What is the difference between the marine injectors and the (+50hp) injectors? Im looking to get a set and thought I would get an opinion before I bought them.

 

save your coins for reliability mods and chip 1st, marine injectors are the last piece of the performance build IMO, you need better timing, fuel request, and a better turbo to supply air. That said if engine cooling ststem is not up to par to manage extra heat that comes with performance any gains could be short lived.

Any idea miles on current engine ?

 

252,000 it had a High output water pump put in at 231,000. Are those Heath Diesel chips any good? It also has a #9 resistor that I put in.

 

Look at my signature and ask if I believe in Bill's stuff gotta give props to a guy that holds the worlds record for fastest 6.5 that is still streetable in every way, running 153 mph (for now) on the Bonneville Salt flats. #9 resistor does nothing as a power adder Bill says from his experience a #7 is what works best.

With my current setup I'm knocking on door of 250 rwhp which is pretty good considering 185 @ flywheel is what it left GM at and also taking into consideration you lose 40-60 hp thru the auto trans and the 6.5 is an IDI MFI/EFI hybrid of an injection system.

 

So what would you suggest for preformance parts for it? Besides the chip.

 

4" exhaust gut or drop the cat if you have one-mandrel bent x-over-new non crushed freeer flowing downpipe, gauges IMO should have been factory equipment (EGT & Boost at minimum, trans temp especially if towing), mechanical boost control if keeping the GM turbo (scrap vac system it can/will leave you stranded with no boost regulation) , boost fooler if you don't have coins rite now for a chip so PCM will not defuel from higher boost than the GM stock program is calling for, Check-clean-preserve with di-electric grease all gnds, check all glows (replace with AC 60-G or bosh duraterm), battery stud mod vs GM side post setup.

FTB mod my own little specialty to keep the IP fully fueled all times, http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...ove-fuel-to-IP new lift pump I like the Walbro FRB-5 more gph 45 vs 28 from GM lift pump.

Yours being a OBD-I you want to power pump/pumps (I run 2 in parallel in case one quits I still have lift pressure to the IP) off of a relay that is controlled by the OPS; contacts in OPS are weak and fail with the heavy current draw of a lift pump, so use the OPS to the control coil of a HD relay let the realy do the "work" of powering lifts. Even though OBD-IIs have redundant lift power OPS & PCM I still likr to power lifts via the relay.

Not so much a performance thing but reliability adder, a 10 micron prefilter/separator in front of the lift pump to remove the really "big" indigestable stuff lift pumps don't digest well, 5 micron on engine sufficient protection for our IP. Better turbo, as I said in another post I like the ATT due to the KISS nature of the install but you will need the chip before that to take advantage of the extra air the better turbo provides, do both turbo & chip at same time if you can afford it, if not ask tuner what they would charge to reprogram the chip if you do go to a different turbo.

I should have asked earlier what planned use of the truck is Daily driver or towing or combination towing your programmer will want to know that, there is a guy on ebay that sells a multi-tune option some are pleased with; but for now I'd wait as it turns out that set up is tailored to a specific turbo that may not match yours some new tuning info especially for OBD-Is soon to hit the market at a discount from what is out there now

More performance means more heat to transmission/engine which shares part of your radiator/cooling stack in the grill, deep trans pan is a plus, fresh trans filter, for my towing since I can tow "big" with my setup I added an additional trans cooler with its own fan and thermostat control to turn on fan when trans pan temp is +180F, cool trans is very important reducing heat load from trans to engine via the radiator is a plus, my system is about 22qts now more fluid to heat up.

I have Amsoil dual remote bypass oil filtration & run full synthetis, avg 25K miles on oil changes, (monitor with oil analysis) extra oil in system 2.5 gals now also more oil to heat up/better keep engine cool.

Saw h/o water pump did you deep clean the rad/ac condenser fins takes minimum of 3 hrs to do this.

Summary: Gnds-glows-battery stud mod-clean rad/ac-exhaust-gauges-fuel supply to IP-trans mods if towing-Better boost regulation TM & fooler-chip-turbo-ho injectors (stock ok for 99% of 6.5 guys change if at near 100K on current set) as you can afford better trans fluid & engine oil conditioning, some folks looking at cams-larger opening pre-cups in heads and some other stuff, WMI or IC possibly as well depending which turbo you wind up with, some folks swear by 18:1 CR Bill Heath running 25:1 CR in his, but that is on a blue-printed engine of stock parts but with TLC care during the assembly process.

 

I already have a 4in diamond eye exhaust, and thanks for your time and input!

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I already have a 4in diamond eye. Also for the cooling aspect do the 9 blade duramax fans work better? or is there really no difference?

 

somebody else running the ATT turbo: The 6.5 Factory Equipped Asthma Attack