Company Truck Running Kinda Sluggish? Give It A Quick Tune With This Info
#1
08-30-2007, 09:50 PM
Company Truck Running Kinda Sluggish? Give It A Quick Tune With This Info
Cat 3116
To gain access to the fuel screw on the 3116, you must remove the valve cover. If the seal tag/plate is still present it will need to be removed. You will need to remove the tag by removing the rocker shaft stand bolt. The screw and lock nut are on the rack bar. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to increase rack travel. One source says you'll need some special tool to do it, I have yet to verify. Marine injectors are also available for an even better power increase.
Cat 3208 & early model 3306
Tools needed-7/16" socket, a short extension or 2, and a screwdriver. If you look on the top of the pump you'll see a cover with 2 bolts that's about the same size as a Holley carb's float bowl. Fuel does come out sometimes, and does not need bleeding afterwards. Under it is a screw with a jamb nut. If you hit the accel. linkage you'll see a little pin come up. The screw stops the pin and thus, limits fuel. So adjust it as far up as you can as long as you can tolerate the black smoke. Most turbo'd 3208's can run fine with the screw all the way out(removed). And just behind that is the high rpm governor adjustment. It's labeled as 'high idle', but only go 2-3 turns at a time as to keep it under 3200 no load. Backing the screw out raises the rpm. One more adjustment is the pre-boost power. This is up in the front of the other 2 adjustments. It's round & has 3 bolts holding it & 6 holes in it. Take all 3 bolts out and you may have to smack it with something to break it loose(mosly from paint). Now tighten it like you're screwing it in tighter, that makes the power come in sooner. If you go 'til it stops, then you may see lots of smoke if you mash down on the pedal. Back it out as needed.
Cat 3126
10k powerstroke mod works, but use a 4.7k resistor instead. Results aren't that great though, if you have an auto trans. Most notable power increase is around 12-1800 rpm, after that it's hardly noticeable. ICP sensor is up next to the valve cover, just a little ways back from the front on the driver's side. You can also put a 3.9k resistor on the manifold pressure sensor(MAP sensor in the gasser world). It uses the 5 volt source to sensor return, not ground. Other than that, Edge makes a plug in module for them.
Cat 3406A,B,C , and later model 3306
On the back of the pump is a cover/plate that is said to be almost heart shaped(the AFC housing). There are 2 allen head screws behind that plate that have 3/8 (on B&C's pumps, a single 7/16 on the A) locknuts on them. On an 'A' model you can just take the screw out, since it cant flow enough to cause any harm. Carefully loosen the locknuts with a deep socket, then remove ratchet and insert the allen wrench through the socket so you can hold the locknut in one place. Turn both screws EXACTLY the same amount of turns. Usually start by going 1 full turn on both, then run it. Any additional turns afterwards should be no more than half. Don't get greedy, you'll burn it up. You can get well over 500Hp playing with those B model pumps, but don't come back here blaming me if you don't know how to take your foot out of it and let it cool down. With the screws were turned all the way out, and a C model turbo on it, you can get a little over 600Hp. But it gets hot, if not careful.
Cummins Big Cam
drill out the ball in the throttle shaft and back out the screw a bit
adjust your aneroid valve so it gets rid of the fuel supply delay to make it more responsive ( the aneroid's function is to limit fuel until the turbo spools up. Its behind the little tin cover beside the throttle shaft).
shim the governor spring
change the fuel pump button (I think its actually called an 'idle plunger' or something). This is the biggest bang for your buck. Its not that hard to do but I can't recall the specifics because its been over a decade since I did this. A few hand tools are all thats required to pop the cap off the end of the pump then a socket and needle nose pliers to pull the stuff out. The 'buttons' are stamped with a number on the groove where it is narrower and the lower the number, the more fuel pressure. The numbers go up in a weird sequence if I can recall --> alternating between the increase of 2, then 3, then repeat --> like 5, 7, 10, 12, 15, etc. Depending on how far you want to go, guys used to take whatever they had and drop the number by 10 or 15 and it was pretty safe. Just be sure to have a pyro (that works properly), be sure to warm it up properly because that extra fuel will score a liner much quicker when not warmed. Do not lug the engine - drop a gear soon as there is enough rpm room to do so. Someone had an '84 Big Cam III and it had something like a 30ish button and we ran a 5. It was 'hot'!
The fuel pressure increased from somewhere around 180 to over 300. Some guys had a hard time with turbos when they did this.
Detroit 8.2 liter
Tools needed-screwdriver and I think it's a 9/16" wrench. On top-middle of the pump on the right side there's an all-thread looking screw with a jamb nut. Loosen the jamb nut and take the screw out. There's a spring inside it, so be cautious. Run the jamb nut so there's about 4-5 threads left and re-install the screw. Run it up to the jamb nut, then tighten the nut up and it's done. Not much, but it's free.
Detroit V92's
Detroit 6&8V92:
Adjust the no load speed up.
Back out the buffer screw a few turns.
On the back side of the governor is the cap held in by 2 bolts, take that off and you have access to the idle control and the top no load setting.
Loosen the small 1/4" nut at the end pack and back out the idle speed screw about 4 turns. Loosen the large clamp nut with the 4 notches in it on the other end of the pack. then screw in the entire assembly 3-5 turns. Tighten the large clamp nut. Fire engine up and adjust the idle screw to just below the desired idle. Tighten the idle screw nut.
Adjust buffer screw to desired idle and so when you stab the throttle the gov doesn't search. Put cap back on and run it around and adjust from there.
You can also get better response by running a tight rack but with you sand jockeys playing with that makes for a good runaway so just jack up your no load adjustment and try to keep it below 2600 rpms at top no load.
To gain access to the fuel screw on the 3116, you must remove the valve cover. If the seal tag/plate is still present it will need to be removed. You will need to remove the tag by removing the rocker shaft stand bolt. The screw and lock nut are on the rack bar. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to increase rack travel. One source says you'll need some special tool to do it, I have yet to verify. Marine injectors are also available for an even better power increase.
Cat 3208 & early model 3306
Tools needed-7/16" socket, a short extension or 2, and a screwdriver. If you look on the top of the pump you'll see a cover with 2 bolts that's about the same size as a Holley carb's float bowl. Fuel does come out sometimes, and does not need bleeding afterwards. Under it is a screw with a jamb nut. If you hit the accel. linkage you'll see a little pin come up. The screw stops the pin and thus, limits fuel. So adjust it as far up as you can as long as you can tolerate the black smoke. Most turbo'd 3208's can run fine with the screw all the way out(removed). And just behind that is the high rpm governor adjustment. It's labeled as 'high idle', but only go 2-3 turns at a time as to keep it under 3200 no load. Backing the screw out raises the rpm. One more adjustment is the pre-boost power. This is up in the front of the other 2 adjustments. It's round & has 3 bolts holding it & 6 holes in it. Take all 3 bolts out and you may have to smack it with something to break it loose(mosly from paint). Now tighten it like you're screwing it in tighter, that makes the power come in sooner. If you go 'til it stops, then you may see lots of smoke if you mash down on the pedal. Back it out as needed.
Cat 3126
10k powerstroke mod works, but use a 4.7k resistor instead. Results aren't that great though, if you have an auto trans. Most notable power increase is around 12-1800 rpm, after that it's hardly noticeable. ICP sensor is up next to the valve cover, just a little ways back from the front on the driver's side. You can also put a 3.9k resistor on the manifold pressure sensor(MAP sensor in the gasser world). It uses the 5 volt source to sensor return, not ground. Other than that, Edge makes a plug in module for them.
Cat 3406A,B,C , and later model 3306
On the back of the pump is a cover/plate that is said to be almost heart shaped(the AFC housing). There are 2 allen head screws behind that plate that have 3/8 (on B&C's pumps, a single 7/16 on the A) locknuts on them. On an 'A' model you can just take the screw out, since it cant flow enough to cause any harm. Carefully loosen the locknuts with a deep socket, then remove ratchet and insert the allen wrench through the socket so you can hold the locknut in one place. Turn both screws EXACTLY the same amount of turns. Usually start by going 1 full turn on both, then run it. Any additional turns afterwards should be no more than half. Don't get greedy, you'll burn it up. You can get well over 500Hp playing with those B model pumps, but don't come back here blaming me if you don't know how to take your foot out of it and let it cool down. With the screws were turned all the way out, and a C model turbo on it, you can get a little over 600Hp. But it gets hot, if not careful.
Cummins Big Cam
drill out the ball in the throttle shaft and back out the screw a bit
adjust your aneroid valve so it gets rid of the fuel supply delay to make it more responsive ( the aneroid's function is to limit fuel until the turbo spools up. Its behind the little tin cover beside the throttle shaft).
shim the governor spring
change the fuel pump button (I think its actually called an 'idle plunger' or something). This is the biggest bang for your buck. Its not that hard to do but I can't recall the specifics because its been over a decade since I did this. A few hand tools are all thats required to pop the cap off the end of the pump then a socket and needle nose pliers to pull the stuff out. The 'buttons' are stamped with a number on the groove where it is narrower and the lower the number, the more fuel pressure. The numbers go up in a weird sequence if I can recall --> alternating between the increase of 2, then 3, then repeat --> like 5, 7, 10, 12, 15, etc. Depending on how far you want to go, guys used to take whatever they had and drop the number by 10 or 15 and it was pretty safe. Just be sure to have a pyro (that works properly), be sure to warm it up properly because that extra fuel will score a liner much quicker when not warmed. Do not lug the engine - drop a gear soon as there is enough rpm room to do so. Someone had an '84 Big Cam III and it had something like a 30ish button and we ran a 5. It was 'hot'!
The fuel pressure increased from somewhere around 180 to over 300. Some guys had a hard time with turbos when they did this.
Detroit 8.2 liter
Tools needed-screwdriver and I think it's a 9/16" wrench. On top-middle of the pump on the right side there's an all-thread looking screw with a jamb nut. Loosen the jamb nut and take the screw out. There's a spring inside it, so be cautious. Run the jamb nut so there's about 4-5 threads left and re-install the screw. Run it up to the jamb nut, then tighten the nut up and it's done. Not much, but it's free.
Detroit V92's
Detroit 6&8V92:
Adjust the no load speed up.
Back out the buffer screw a few turns.
On the back side of the governor is the cap held in by 2 bolts, take that off and you have access to the idle control and the top no load setting.
Loosen the small 1/4" nut at the end pack and back out the idle speed screw about 4 turns. Loosen the large clamp nut with the 4 notches in it on the other end of the pack. then screw in the entire assembly 3-5 turns. Tighten the large clamp nut. Fire engine up and adjust the idle screw to just below the desired idle. Tighten the idle screw nut.
Adjust buffer screw to desired idle and so when you stab the throttle the gov doesn't search. Put cap back on and run it around and adjust from there.
You can also get better response by running a tight rack but with you sand jockeys playing with that makes for a good runaway so just jack up your no load adjustment and try to keep it below 2600 rpms at top no load.
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ArizonaRedneck (12-10-2009)
#2
08-30-2007, 09:51 PM
International DT360,408,466,530, Ford 6.6 & 7.8, and Mack E7.
Talking about the International DT series truck & tractor engines, 360, 408, 466, & 530(and a few in between), Ford/New Holland 6.6 & 7.8, and Mack E7. Roughly covering years from 1984-1995.
There's 2 different types of pumps that I've done. The mid 80's to 92 and the 93 to 95. For more hp than this Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. 600hp is easy to get on these engines, but I would stick with an IH for that much power. The older ones (83 & older)with a rotary Bosch pump are out of luck, it can ruin the pump. If you have the rotary pump, you'll need to find an 84-92 to steal the pump & injector lines, but at least it's interchangeable.
The easy ones are the 93-95 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it flat. Dont run with no plate like the "Dodge boys" do, these pumps dont like it & will run real crappy(it'll get too much timing advance). The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. Then the last adjustment is the stop screw. It stops the accelerator lever on the pump just like the one for the idle adjustment. While the engine is off you can see it hit when you cycle the lever to max. Just loosen the jamb nut and run the bolt into the pump for more travel. Then you can do the timing:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...958#post235958
As for the governor springs, these are instructions for the 12V dodge, but it's still going to be about the same, just easier to get access.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...523#post165523
You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm. You guys with the DT360 and Ford 6.6 would really benefit from the 3k GSK. Another option is to just tighten the original springs 3 or 4 clicks. After you read the article linked above, the "clicks" will make more sense. Just make sure you tighten both sets of springs. Each click will be roughly 100 more rpm you can use before the pump starts to de-fuel(most stock trucks will only hit 2700 on a good day).
Now for the older type inline pumps('84-ish to '92):
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers, or magnet retrieval tool and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. Note #1: if you get the screw too high, it'll hit the top of the pump and make the rpm stick. Run the accelerator and check to see that it wont bind up in there. Note #2: If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet, and it's not that easy to get out. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke(essentially releasing the tension on the spring inside). The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above. The timing advance is covered in the same article as mentioned above or here it is again: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...958#post235958
If someone out there is a brave enough person, try running withouth the fuel screw. I havent tried it, nor can confirm it wont cause pump/governer damage. I know some Cummins 6BT owners run with no fuel plate, that's why I thought of the no-screw on these.
IH DT466E, DT530E
IH DT466E/DT530E (1996-2003):
10k mod from the powerstrokes works, but it's reported it only makes about 10 hp or so.
Here's the 2 modules that are out there for the 466/530E http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Other/index.htm Another module is out there for the 466E for the 96-03's. It's available thru DPP: http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com. I've heard 30-35% increase. Then, if you REALLY want big power after adding a performance module, Diesel Innovations.com can custom build you injectors for 450+ hp, but those arent low buck. A lower buck alternative for a 466E is to get a stock replacement injector from a 300hp 530E. It may not burn too clean, but it's an option.
Military Deuce & a half
The outer nut is the lock nut. The inner nut is turned to adjust the screw in or out. The fuel delivery increases as the screw moves out (=turning the adjusting nut clockwise). On some model pumps there's a threaded cap over the adjusting screw and one lock nut. After removing the cap release the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise. Or into the FDC. And lock the nut back down. Only turn the screw in 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment rapidly move the throttle open and closed. Watch the exhaust smoke when it starts to blacken then stop and lock the nut back down. Not too tight because the screw is a fine thread into alumium and you may strip the threads.
Perkins with CAV pump
http://www.realdiesel.com/images/dpapump_030.jpg
Copy & paste the site above for reference. If your CAV pump looks like this then put the engine at TDC, remove the cover off the pump (the one under the ".com" in the photo), catch all the fuel that spills out and use an allen wrench to turn it up. I would try 180 degrees at a time. If you do this without a pyro then beware of overfueling and causing too much heat. Then bleed the fuel system (the top bleed screw on the pump).
Talking about the International DT series truck & tractor engines, 360, 408, 466, & 530(and a few in between), Ford/New Holland 6.6 & 7.8, and Mack E7. Roughly covering years from 1984-1995.
There's 2 different types of pumps that I've done. The mid 80's to 92 and the 93 to 95. For more hp than this Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. 600hp is easy to get on these engines, but I would stick with an IH for that much power. The older ones (83 & older)with a rotary Bosch pump are out of luck, it can ruin the pump. If you have the rotary pump, you'll need to find an 84-92 to steal the pump & injector lines, but at least it's interchangeable.
The easy ones are the 93-95 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it flat. Dont run with no plate like the "Dodge boys" do, these pumps dont like it & will run real crappy(it'll get too much timing advance). The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. Then the last adjustment is the stop screw. It stops the accelerator lever on the pump just like the one for the idle adjustment. While the engine is off you can see it hit when you cycle the lever to max. Just loosen the jamb nut and run the bolt into the pump for more travel. Then you can do the timing:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...958#post235958
As for the governor springs, these are instructions for the 12V dodge, but it's still going to be about the same, just easier to get access.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...523#post165523
You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm. You guys with the DT360 and Ford 6.6 would really benefit from the 3k GSK. Another option is to just tighten the original springs 3 or 4 clicks. After you read the article linked above, the "clicks" will make more sense. Just make sure you tighten both sets of springs. Each click will be roughly 100 more rpm you can use before the pump starts to de-fuel(most stock trucks will only hit 2700 on a good day).
Now for the older type inline pumps('84-ish to '92):
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers, or magnet retrieval tool and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. Note #1: if you get the screw too high, it'll hit the top of the pump and make the rpm stick. Run the accelerator and check to see that it wont bind up in there. Note #2: If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet, and it's not that easy to get out. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke(essentially releasing the tension on the spring inside). The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above. The timing advance is covered in the same article as mentioned above or here it is again: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...958#post235958
If someone out there is a brave enough person, try running withouth the fuel screw. I havent tried it, nor can confirm it wont cause pump/governer damage. I know some Cummins 6BT owners run with no fuel plate, that's why I thought of the no-screw on these.
IH DT466E, DT530E
IH DT466E/DT530E (1996-2003):
10k mod from the powerstrokes works, but it's reported it only makes about 10 hp or so.
Here's the 2 modules that are out there for the 466/530E http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Other/index.htm Another module is out there for the 466E for the 96-03's. It's available thru DPP: http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com. I've heard 30-35% increase. Then, if you REALLY want big power after adding a performance module, Diesel Innovations.com can custom build you injectors for 450+ hp, but those arent low buck. A lower buck alternative for a 466E is to get a stock replacement injector from a 300hp 530E. It may not burn too clean, but it's an option.
Military Deuce & a half
The outer nut is the lock nut. The inner nut is turned to adjust the screw in or out. The fuel delivery increases as the screw moves out (=turning the adjusting nut clockwise). On some model pumps there's a threaded cap over the adjusting screw and one lock nut. After removing the cap release the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise. Or into the FDC. And lock the nut back down. Only turn the screw in 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment rapidly move the throttle open and closed. Watch the exhaust smoke when it starts to blacken then stop and lock the nut back down. Not too tight because the screw is a fine thread into alumium and you may strip the threads.
Perkins with CAV pump
http://www.realdiesel.com/images/dpapump_030.jpg
Copy & paste the site above for reference. If your CAV pump looks like this then put the engine at TDC, remove the cover off the pump (the one under the ".com" in the photo), catch all the fuel that spills out and use an allen wrench to turn it up. I would try 180 degrees at a time. If you do this without a pyro then beware of overfueling and causing too much heat. Then bleed the fuel system (the top bleed screw on the pump).
The following users liked this post:
jasonfriedlin (08-31-2007)
:yeah
#4
08-30-2007, 10:12 PM
#5
08-31-2007, 08:15 PM
Diesel Bomber
#6
09-13-2007, 08:02 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
#9
04-12-2009, 01:32 PM
#10
07-20-2011, 04:50 AM
this is blacky,can someone run me a car fax on 1981 ford 800 8.2 detroit 5 speed manual truck?have several other trucks with diesels,1FDPK84NXBVJ20495. hoping to get a title
