Why should i use amsoil products. what makes them better then everybody else stuff. -

farm boy's Sig:

95 cummins. the basic upgrades with some twists. 600hp and 1200ft-lbs
95 powerstroke. my new toy. intake exhaust chip and intercooler coming.

I've read that FORD doesn't like their oil, cause it turns into mucky sluge ??? -

gunman41mag's Sig:

MEMBER- BLOWIN' SMOKE GANG
2008 F250 6.4PSD SUPERCAB LONG-BED 2WD
2007 ARCTIC CAT 400 4X4 FIS

Never heard that before.what oil do you guys use - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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I do know that with me using Amsoil in my 06 cummins, When it was -25 or so a couple of weeks ago and I didn't have the truck plugged in, it started right up after the grid heater went off. I think that any big name synthetic is better than regular oil. -

jstange2's Sig:

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD Auto, 4x4, Triple a-pillar with 60 lb boost: 280* Trans temp: 1500* EGT gauges, Smarty , muffler and cat delete, S&B CAI

Thats nonsense. There is NO comparison between a full synthetic (Im talking group IV - like Amsoil, Royal Purple, Red Line, Mobile) and dino oil.

Amsoil is good stuff for sure, although I dont care for the way they market and sell it. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

HI GUYS, Here is only one thread Oil recommendations - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum -

It looks like only the 6.4's have had problems. -

That thread told me absolutely nothing about Amsoil and why its bad based on facts.... -

Red_Rattler's Sig:

03 Flame Red 2500 4x4 QuadCab Handshaker HO, Kore HP Kit, 35's, Smarty REVO, AIRDOG II 165, Techni Cooler, K&NFIPK, MBRP Cool Duals 6inch tips, GunSlinger Shifter w/ a broken BD short throw , SRT Inine 6 Hood, Jacobs Brake, couple other goodies

Click me: Wisconsin Bombers

JAKE

I have not heard of any problems either?? Doesn't really make sense. As to why to use it?? That's a decision each individual needs to make. Synthetics do offer some obvious advantages, but at what cost? Is it worth to some people...no. Unless money is no object, then you have to weigh the cost vs. benefit. If you plan to change oil every 5000 miles regardless of what's in there, then no, you won't save anything. If you're wanting to stretch intervals, then theym might be something to consider.
Better flow properties offer better heat exchange and cooler running engines, tranny, etc. This has been well documented.
They are definitely playing a bigger role in today's vehicles and are something to consider???
Heath -

Heath's Sig:

AMSOIL Regency Direct Jobber
My AMSOIL Website
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Have questions or want pricing? Contact me

For me, my trucks operate in subzero temps for months on end. The low pour point is important as when its very cold, the quicker your get oil circulating in the engine, the less metal on metal wear you have. Likewise, for you guys in warm climates, the synthetic is much more stable in high temperatures and can prevent oil coking (its also good for quick shutdowns when hot), which can save a turbo or two. Plus, it make more sense to me to change oil once a year instead of dumping good oil in the spring and fall.

And NO, Im not one of these die hard Amsoil guys - I have tried many synthetics and havent tried Amsoil until recently.

As for the 6.4 - the new engines take special oils, maybe they wernt using the proper grade/oil? -

I'm going to change my oil on MONDAY, cause I have 4,900 miles, BUT I'm using ROTELA 15-40 -

I've seen the group IV thing mentioned before, I don't know what that is?

I like using Amsoil but the last 2 oil changes I have used Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 do you know what group that falls into? -

Hut's Sig:

My Rig 2006 2500 SLT QC 4x4 LWB AT 3.73 Made in U.S.A.
aFe stage 2 w/Pro Guard 7, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Magnaflow 5" TBE #17989
IBEW Tramp Wireman

Rotella is made with group 3 basestocks. The groups just refers to different classifications of basestocks. Group 2 is typically today's stocks from the ground, your dino basestocks. Group 3 have received the term "synthetic" although still made from highly reformed petroleum oil. The group 4's are the chemically made..in the lab, so to speak. An example is PAO's. -

That's the same oil I use, and I have over 230,000 miles on my truck with varying lengths of time and mileage between oil changes. My truck used to always take two or three tries to start up on cold days no matter what oil I used, Synthetic or Dino and plugged in or not. But since I did the HPX mod, it starts on the first try every time, even up in the freezing temps of Truckee Ca,.

All things being equal, synthetic oil is the best choice if you can afford it. I used to have a report, let me see if I can find it again that showed Amsoil beating out Mobil 1 in a lot of areas besides friction wear. -

Krokus_96F350's Sig:

My Most Important Modification To Date, The HPX Mod

Thanks for the explanation.
I changed the synthetic RotellaT at 10,000 and used the scientific test method of still feels ok between thumb and finger.
I think I will go back to amsoil next change and eventually install a bypass filter on it(been meaning to do that). -

Group IV means that the oil is fully synthesized from synthetic base stocks (meaning that is does not contain conventional petroleum products). There are a few other Group IV synthetics on the market that I failed to mention, but I think I got the major ones. To find out which oils are and are not fully synthetic, you have to usually look at the product MSDS.

You have to be careful in choosing synthetic oils. Many on the market claim to be synthetic but are not FULL synthetic. For example Shell Rotella SB - is a Group III (meaning it uses some dino oil as basestock), which puts it in the same class as the better conventional dino oils (even though its supposed to be "synthetic"). Just because an oil says its synthetic - doesnt necessarily mean that it is. But, if you are buying a good Group IV Syn - you can be sure you are getting the best for your engine and getting your moneys worth. i see after I typed this that Heath already explained it.


Welcome has some very good info. -