The steps for turning up a P7100 pump are: 1) Remove your AFC Housing 2) Mod Your Fuel Plate either slide it forward or purchase a cut one 3) Adjust the governor lever to contact the fuel plate 4) Crank the star Wheel Towards the motor 5) Slide The AFC housing all the way forward Details Below...... First of all Know Your Pump Only 1994-1998 trucks have the P7100 Pump The Control Parts List number or CPL number is located on the engine data plate, which can be found on the drivers side of the timing gear cover. The engine data plate includes such information as the CPL number, engine serial number, and pump timing information. Engine Model 160hp 180hp 215hp (California) 195 HP CPL Numbers 1549, 1550 1551, 1552 1553, 1815 1816, 1959 1839, 1968 2022 2174 2023 2175 1863 AFC Removal If you do almost any pump work you have to take the AFC housing off. Remove front passenger side AFC housing break off screw. NOTE: This screw is a factory break off screw with rounded head and no screw driver, allen head or TORX slot. Use a hand impact tool with a 6 inch long 1/4" extension and a T15 TORX bit to remove this screw. A center punch may be required to start a hole in the center of this screw. Set the hand impact tool in the removal position (counter clockwise) and use light hammer taps on the impact tool to loosen this screw. Tap progressively harder on the impact tool until the screw loosens. This method of removal forms a TORX shape into the screw allowing it to be reinstalled later with the T15 TORX bit. In some cases the hole in the top of this screw is too large for the T15 bit thus use the T20 TORX bit. There is usually a lock washer and flat washer under each of these screws. OPTIONAL: A sharp chisel can be used to remove the break off screw by making a notch in the outside diameter of the head, then applying a tangential force with light blows to the chisel counterclockwise to remove the screw. AFC Cut Away Fuel Plate With the AFC housing removed you can now see the fuel plate . Sliding the stock plate will increase HP quite a bit. However, the stock plate profile is not designed for that so the result is usually EGT problems. Home ground plates are not a good idea either. Pump experts say to NEVER remove the plate completely. There is a pin in the pump that will eventually wear and break causeing very expensive damage. Slide the plate ATW Foward and if you still want more contact TST for a Cut Plate , they will recommend one for your truck This is what it looks like under the fuel plate Governor Lever Adjustment This is a cut away view of the governor of a P7100 pump. Notice how the lever hit the cam plate flush at the very bottom edge. To check your adjustment the throttle lever needs to be moved until the lever just touches the cam plate. With the AFC housing removed, look down through the opening behind the cam plate and see where the lever is striking the plate. This should be done with the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid in the run ( or pulled up ) position. Where the lever strikes the cam plate will vary depending on the style and design of the cam plate you are using. For plates similar to the stock plate, like shown below, this lever is set correctly. It is adjusted so the lever is flush with the bottom edge of the plate, and does not ride under the plate. (Picture Courtesy of BD Power) For cam plates, like a TST #6 for example, that have a taper at the very bottom of the plate, adjust the lever so the lever hits at the tip of the bottom nose on the plate. It is OK to be slightly below that. However too far down causes the lever to be held back as the RPM's rise. This causes the loss in bottom end power, with the sudden surge as the lever finally clears the nose and hits the main fueling curve.

This is what the pump looks like from the back with the cover removed. Do not change the adjustment in the upper right hand corner. The adjustment in the lower left hand corner is the one to make. Loosen the locknut ( 10mm socket required ). Making very small adjustments to the screw, adjust the lever the proper height. Now tighten the locknut.
One thing to realize about the plate is that it is properly called a full load throttle stop. What this means is that if you are not running at WOT or close to it the plate is not doing anything. It's just taking up space in the pump.
Star Wheel Adjustment


To adjust, remove the large plug on top of the AFC housing using an 8 mm allen wrench. Take care not to loose the sealing washer under the plug. Removing the plug exposes a star wheel which changes the quickness of fueling response to boost. If acceleration is weak with minimal smoke, rotate top of the star wheel toward the engine a few revolutions. If vehicle has heavy black smoke on initial acceleration, rotate top of star wheel away from engine a few revolutions. Reinstall large plug with sealing washer and test drive vehicle again. It may take repeated attempts to get this adjustment set. If heavy smoke is still encountered with star wheel moved completely to rear position, loosen AFC housing and slide it rearward a 1/16 inch, retighten and test again. Repeat unit desired results occur.

Great detailed explanation with pics DieselMinded.

thanks a lot guys, everything i wanted to know.

deff gonna wanna buy a nice south bend clutch so your friend doesn't have to buy two clutches. grind a 0 plate and buy whatever the next step up from a con o is. and i would recommend buying isspro gauges a 0-60psi boost and pyrometer if possible get both of them from vulcan performance for 216 with a pillar. pretty damn cheap, i shopped around

Free power upgrades aside how about a 3000 rpm gsk? Pulls hard all the way to 3200 rpm and I love it.

Yank the plate completely, they are for pussies. Now that we have established that, yes definately have a pyro gauge installed asap and do not exceed whatever you consider a safe peak exhaust gas temperature. LOL... Then you'll wanna block off your wastegate control on your turbo... Not too hard on the turbo but gives ya extra wham for cheap A boost gauge is nice, but on a cheap budget not really needed its just nice to know what its doing. With stock injectors and turbo you're not going to blow anything up, or make a dangerous amount of boost. Please remove the turbo silencer ring so you can enjoy the beautiful sounds of the turbo and your newfound boost. Now that he has the bug, he's gonna want more and more, so AFE cold air intake is next, followed with 4" downpipe and exhaust, preferably exiting through twin 5"+ stacks Then he'll want more, so governor springs are in order, then injectors, delivery valves, bigger turbo, head studs, water/meth, propane, eventually FASS pump with BIG fuel lines, etc... you're gettin the picture

Its a horrible addiction!!! hahahaha......

My last clutch was a South Bend CON FE, it was a great clutch, very grabby but very strong. A CON OFE is supposed to drive a lot nicer, smoother engagement. Also they are supposed to hold up well from everyone i know that has them... IDK never tried one, i always try to go for overkill which is why i now have a dual disc attached to my 1 3/8" input shaft that hasn't been hooked to a sled yet and probably won't for a while, and then only very occasionally.. its just a daily driver that tows sometimes and plays in mud and goes fast...

i'm agreeing to dissagree.... on my truck w/o a plate and stock everything else except the GSK i could peg a 1600* pyro pre-turbo before i got out of second good and was running 45-48# of boost on the stock turbo..... i'd say at extended intervals that could blow up something..... just saying.....

yea u could possibly blow your turbo with just the plate out but it would be hard, but if you had the afc turned wide open an slid forward an no plate with the wastegate blocked, it could happen easier than you think

I was wondering how you turn up the AFC, i have a stock fuel plate and moved it forward,maxed the star wheel but my boost guage is only maxing at 17 how can i get more boost, i am soon to ad a set of stage 2 injectors from industrial injection, also have a #5 fuel plate on the way and a 4000 RPM GSK my number is 208-651-2377 (Brandon)

When ya get your #5 plate it should come with alil brass elbow with a set screw in it. That will take care of your boost issues.

so after i put that in i will be able to get 35 psi out of my turbo, also how do you turn up the AFC, all i am really trying to do is get 35psi right now with stock everything i herd it could be done

Should get close anyway, don't remember what mine did when it was stock. You most likely also have the older version turbo (unless it's been updated) so it aint going to do quite as good as a HX35. 94s, 95s, and some 96s came with the older WH1C turbos which were carried over from the 1st gen. trucks just with smaller exhaust housings.

Not much to mess with on the AFC other than swapping out springs, tuning the starwheel, or just gutting it completely. To adjust the starwheel check out the posts above.

ya i maxed my starwheel out but i still dont get how to turn up the AFC, there is a t fitting that comes out of it, one goes to the wastegate and the other goes to the inake manifold aLL I DID WAS move my fuel plat forward and max the star wheel what do you sujest on criping the wasetgate line whout that help?

You don't "turn" the AFC up. You either do two things, fool the boost pressure it sees (w/ the brass elbow) or ya change out a spring inside to a softer one. Course theres always gutting it completely but then it is rather tempermental to drive as your right foot then becomes the air/fuel control.