Free power upgrades aside how about a 3000 rpm gsk? Pulls hard all the way to 3200 rpm and I love it.

 

Yank the plate completely, they are for pussies. Now that we have established that, yes definately have a pyro gauge installed asap and do not exceed whatever you consider a safe peak exhaust gas temperature. LOL... Then you'll wanna block off your wastegate control on your turbo... Not too hard on the turbo but gives ya extra wham for cheap A boost gauge is nice, but on a cheap budget not really needed its just nice to know what its doing. With stock injectors and turbo you're not going to blow anything up, or make a dangerous amount of boost. Please remove the turbo silencer ring so you can enjoy the beautiful sounds of the turbo and your newfound boost. Now that he has the bug, he's gonna want more and more, so AFE cold air intake is next, followed with 4" downpipe and exhaust, preferably exiting through twin 5"+ stacks Then he'll want more, so governor springs are in order, then injectors, delivery valves, bigger turbo, head studs, water/meth, propane, eventually FASS pump with BIG fuel lines, etc... you're gettin the picture

Its a horrible addiction!!! hahahaha......

My last clutch was a South Bend CON FE, it was a great clutch, very grabby but very strong. A CON OFE is supposed to drive a lot nicer, smoother engagement. Also they are supposed to hold up well from everyone i know that has them... IDK never tried one, i always try to go for overkill which is why i now have a dual disc attached to my 1 3/8" input shaft that hasn't been hooked to a sled yet and probably won't for a while, and then only very occasionally.. its just a daily driver that tows sometimes and plays in mud and goes fast...

 

i'm agreeing to dissagree.... on my truck w/o a plate and stock everything else except the GSK i could peg a 1600* pyro pre-turbo before i got out of second good and was running 45-48# of boost on the stock turbo..... i'd say at extended intervals that could blow up something..... just saying.....

 

yea u could possibly blow your turbo with just the plate out but it would be hard, but if you had the afc turned wide open an slid forward an no plate with the wastegate blocked, it could happen easier than you think

 

I was wondering how you turn up the AFC, i have a stock fuel plate and moved it forward,maxed the star wheel but my boost guage is only maxing at 17 how can i get more boost, i am soon to ad a set of stage 2 injectors from industrial injection, also have a #5 fuel plate on the way and a 4000 RPM GSK my number is 208-651-2377 (Brandon)

 

When ya get your #5 plate it should come with alil brass elbow with a set screw in it. That will take care of your boost issues.

 

so after i put that in i will be able to get 35 psi out of my turbo, also how do you turn up the AFC, all i am really trying to do is get 35psi right now with stock everything i herd it could be done

 

Should get close anyway, don't remember what mine did when it was stock. You most likely also have the older version turbo (unless it's been updated) so it aint going to do quite as good as a HX35. 94s, 95s, and some 96s came with the older WH1C turbos which were carried over from the 1st gen. trucks just with smaller exhaust housings.

Not much to mess with on the AFC other than swapping out springs, tuning the starwheel, or just gutting it completely. To adjust the starwheel check out the posts above.

 

ya i maxed my starwheel out but i still dont get how to turn up the AFC, there is a t fitting that comes out of it, one goes to the wastegate and the other goes to the inake manifold aLL I DID WAS move my fuel plat forward and max the star wheel what do you sujest on criping the wasetgate line whout that help?

 

You don't "turn" the AFC up. You either do two things, fool the boost pressure it sees (w/ the brass elbow) or ya change out a spring inside to a softer one. Course theres always gutting it completely but then it is rather tempermental to drive as your right foot then becomes the air/fuel control.