Probably not. Just dont lay into up pulling a trailer up a hill for longer than about 15-20 seconds. Anything over 1300*F for long periods will start to anneal the valves.

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Bump for a great write up

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Great info!!!! pretty easy and nothin beats free!!

Advancing timing will increase cylinder pressure and high end HP, and reduce low-end torque and EGT.

More or less, relatively speaking.

just figure on a 3* timing bump... most guys on the 12 v 2nd gens only up their timing 2-3 degrees for a very streetable tune. as whitmore was informed ones tooth and each gap is 3* just go one tooth or gap w/e comes first and see how you like it. that should be a pretty safe place to start and still notice gains (no gauges should be needed) ECM's are pretty smart now a days they can calculate cylinder temps just by the ammount of fuel that they think they're delivering and the relative rpms (atleast i know that for sure on detroit series 60 and the cummins ISX) long story short; it should derate the engine before any damage ensues. their calculations will be off slightly of what is actually going on since your telling the ECM false info.

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One thing i learned in college: DON'T!!! stick your fingers where you wouldn't stick Mr. Happy 89' W250, full fuel 1 1/2 turns, smoke screw needs adjustment, M&H M3 fuel pin and timing spacer, 366 spring, air dog 150,3" DP to 4" DP back bully dog exhaust with the front baffle cut out. Soon to be:transmission upgade, turbo and manifold swap, and injectors.

Easier would be just sand down the sensor to match the Rokk sensor, I guess I have to pull it and take measurements, but that all Rokk did was take the o-ring off because the same sensor is the cam sensor too and it's in oil.

Mostly they just filed the o-ring grove off on one side so it can be pushed to 2 degrees.

I have to pull mine and get the calipers out and get pictures that would be easier to mod and return to stock.