Has anyone had any experience with this torque converter? I want to order a 1400 rpm stall version tomorrow. All I have is a Juice w/attitude on a 2003 SO motor. Stock converter slips too bad even on stock power, and doesn't haul till converter is locked up. What do yall think? Here is the model I am looking to purchase.
DODGE DIESEL 5.9L TORQUE CONVERTER RAM 2500 3500 48RE:eBay Motors (item 260475598778 end time Dec-10-09 07:23:41 PST)

Thought 03 transmissions were the 47rh??

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nope mine is a 48re

I dont know if I would trust a torque converter that cost $300. Not tryin to be an a$$ im just sayin.

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Always better to spend a lil more in the begininng rather than having to do it all over again

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The BS flag is flyin high! $300? You gotta love Ebay! Quickest way to rip you off. Bottom line, if you haven't heard of it, and you can't find anyone that can attest to it, its not all that great. And the price should be the first warning. You get what you pay for.

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First off YEAH what he said. Second where did you get the 1400 rpm stall number from?
Ask those guys about warranty and HP Torque limits! Third call Dave at Goerend do it right the first time!

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I bet that TC is just a painted up factory TC.

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I just got one of their 1250 ft pound guaranteed stage 4 converters, it hasn't gone into the truck yet but seems pretty heavy duty sitting on the bench. I will let you know how it works out.

Please dont take me the wrong way here and im not trying to be a jackass but....


Why would someone buy a $$$$ $40K+ truck and want to install cheap parts?

Due to changes in personal finance over the last couple years, I can't afford to keep the truck and spend 1200+ on a converter and another 500 on a valve body on top of the installation fees so I bought what I could afford. In 2 years I should be able to put a full built transmission in the truck if these parts aren't what they claim they are. The truck isn't heavily modded it has a Banks six gun with pda, genos muffler delete and some mods done to the intake end so these should hold up just fine for now.

This isn't the base model one either it is a billet front cover triple disk. I hope this is at least a decent converter, it can't be any worse then the one in the truck now. Who knows it may be a good alternative for those of us that don't have the coin to drop on a big name brand one.

Oh and I didn't take it as you being a jerk for asking I was a little worried about posting up that I have there parts sitting on the work bench, I was actually expecting a little bit more of a flogging.

The install of the converter and valve body were done thursday. Here is my take so far. The converter is great, the truck pulls hard and I am actually seeing an rpm drop when it shifts. Lockup is fast and firm but not a slam, if I have the pedal floor boarded on the speedloader I do see 10 rpm slip in 3rd and 5 rpm slip in od at first but it drops right back down to 1 rpm (I suspect banks that may be a little over sensitive on the calculations).

Now for the valve body, shifts are firm but at wot it won't upshift to 3rd, I have had it as high as 3400 rpm and still wouldn't shift. As soon as I let off the throttle a little it slams into third. The only time it does this is if I have the pedal to the floor, a little less and it shifts into third fine at 3100 rpm. I was also having an issue with 2nd just letting go for a second, like I shifted it to neutral, and as soon as I let off the throttle it would grab again, didn't matter what throttle position it was at or what power setting the banks was on, even stock. Last night I decided to disconnect the batteries for about a half hour and haven't had the 2nd letting go problem since and the shuttle shift it had gained has also gone away for now.

U need to adjust your Throttle Valve Cable.

I don't have a throttle cable, it is an 06, is there anything else I can check. I checked for codes and don't have any showing up so I am at a loss.

Adjust the band and let us know how it works then!

Did you upgrade the gov solenoid to one of the aftermarket ones? Using the OE solenoid has issues with some VB builds as it will flood the gov circuit with line pressure and you get the hang shifts.

The second gear almost like neutral is normal with that problem also, but, there are some other things you need to address there. The band strut and anchor need to be upgraded to billet pieces or you will bend the strut with the extra line pressure. The 2nd gear servo also does not always work correctly with the higher pressures. You really need to either fix it with a kit that removes the spring that buffers the shift or upgrade tot he billet piston and cover to address leaks.

A good investment with the trucks with a TTVA is a DTT shift enhancer to get rid of the shuttle and funny shifting routines at light throttle. Its not a must if you short of $$. You can tweak the VB to work without it but it takes some playing to find the right combo with each truck.

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