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5.9L 24V Bombs (Aftermarket) Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps Related To Performance And Longevity

well i got bored today and decided to see if my apps was in need of adjustment. i have not had any problems with my truck, no dead pedal, nothin, but checked it anyway. it was over 1.2 volts off so i took out my ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 04-01-2007, 09:14 PM
guroo987's Avatar
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Default Adjusted APPS, I Was Bored

well i got bored today and decided to see if my apps was in need of adjustment. i have not had any problems with my truck, no dead pedal, nothin, but checked it anyway. it was over 1.2 volts off so i took out my volt meter and adjusted it to within .02 volts. i have not driven the truck yet to see if there is any differance, but it was definetaly out o adjustment. will let ya know if it made any differance or not tomorrow. maybe next time i get bored i will adjust the valves

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  #2  
Old 04-01-2007, 09:56 PM
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is there anyway i car get a link or a how to on that particular adjustment? i have a friend with a 98 24valve and he's had some problems with his lately....

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  #3  
Old 04-02-2007, 09:39 PM
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sure, here it is from the "other site"
This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.

Instructions:

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.

* You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
* You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
* Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
* At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference

TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.

* After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
* The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.
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  #4  
Old 04-03-2007, 07:09 PM
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can u do this on third gens too, i get dead pedal every now and then

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  #5  
Old 04-04-2007, 09:42 PM
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can u do this on third gens too, i get dead pedal every now and then
i dont know for sure but i think i remember reading that the common rails are different and you cant, but dont quote me.
anyway i got to drive my truck today for the first time since doing the adjustment. it seems to be a little smoother going down the highway, but the one thing that kinda bummed me out was that there was a major lack of smoke. i had a guy on a motor cycle riding my arse so i got on the go pedal and looked in my mirror, and no big cloud of black smoke (not that it was big before but good enough to give people a warning) it just blew kida a greyish-brown smoke instead. oh well!!
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2007, 08:24 PM
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Hey, guroo987, I've got the same procedure in "Word" format. If someone would like to post it somewhere, I'd be happy to send it to a moderator. Let me know if anyone needs it!

piperca's Sig:1999 2500 SLT, QC, LB, 2WD, Auto, 4:10's, VA V5, RV275, S&B Intake, AFS Big Dog Fuel System, Vulcan Draw Straw, Isspro Fuel Pressure, Westach Boost/EGT Combo, CSS front springs 2" over-stock, KYB MonoMax, DTT Noise Filter, "Dreaded 53 Block", New VP44 @ 135k.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2007, 09:34 PM
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I followed Spooky's lead here on this and tried it out. For those of you paranoid about doing, it is a completely simple thing to do once you get in there and see it all.

All I can say is WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I used to have to back out of the pedal cause my EGT's would climb to high when I got on it. Not anymore. I used to back out of it at around 950 degrees on the guage. This would only happen when I was layin on the pedal but now I can't make it go over around 700 degrees and that's keepin my foot in it the whole way. My normal operating temp went from 650 to just under 600 on the highway.

My intial Voltmeter reading was .45v, the tag on the sensor showed it was supposed to be .65v. My readin once it was done and all put back together is .648 so I'm right there on it. I also did the APPS reset procedure when it was all done. Don't know if it was needed or not but I did it anyway.

Deffinately a half hour well spent.

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  #8  
Old 10-22-2007, 07:11 PM
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Just a Q. it says to turn the truck off but it does not say to turn the key back to the on position to calibrate back to what the apps bracket says, so after I get my reading witch was 0.420 and the bracket said 0.520 do I have the key on or off when trying to get back to 0.520? Sorry if I confused anyone.

01Diesel Bomb's Sig:01 Dodge ram diesel 4.5" tuff country lift, 37" swamper on stock 17" wheels, B.H.A.F., diablo power puck, fuel pressure, boost, and trans temp gauges on the piller, cb, 4" pipe with 5"tip.
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:23 AM
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I wasn't smart enough to even notice the difference that you caught there in the key location, I just followed it step by step so I must have done it with the key off. If you probe it with the key off and get any reading that means the wire is always hot at that location and it wouldn't matter.

I would also suggest using a straight pin to probe the wire with attached to alligator clips on your voltmeter. Much smaller hole in the insulation.
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:25 PM
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spec was .6 it was at .44, got it to .61 and HOLY CRAP! there is a major differance it waset the best night to test since it was a slight drizzel (which started right as i finished woot woot) but i noticed at least a 400 degree drop in the egt's now weather that was a lack of tracion or if it was accurate i jsut about pooped my self. i also got a lil over 38 psi at 7200 feet elevation muhahahaha, im used to seeing my 1500 pyro gauge climb just as fast if not faster than my boost gauge but now it goes up slower alot slower (ive had the needel peeged and its taken about a second or so to come back down. needless to say im very happy with the results =D

Lostnwalmart's Sig:06 jetta tdi 52 mpg and 104 hp

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Last edited by Lostnwalmart; 10-30-2007 at 09:00 PM..
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  #11  
Old 10-30-2007, 08:37 PM
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Hopefully this got yer other problems fixxed up to. Don't forget to update your help thread if it worked for the next poor victim of the same symptoms.
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2008, 06:16 PM
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so i deceided to recalibrate the apps.
i just tried this and it worked. i had played with my old apps that i replaced 2 years ago. it had a random revving problem. wich didnt work. then i came across this thread.
while i obviously didnt fix both. it did work for the new one.

my apps tested at .490 volts.

now .531 sticker said .534

Queeg's Sig:2001 ram 2500 4x4, rolling 315/75/16`s , auto trans from a nice guy in iowa , got some radio equipment in there. cheesy homemade intake. all stock! sloppy steering, train horn, onboard air. cool stack off a catapiller
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:27 PM
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where the pics at .

oklahoma_6speed's Sig:[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]2001 DODGE. 6 SPEED QUADZILLA ADRENALINE. 5 INCH STRAIGHT PIPED WITH 6 INCH tiP.ARKLAHOMA BOMBER.:old school...its a rural school thingthe new one. 1993 4x4 ect cab in need of donations to make it run better..and thanks to the patience of my beautiful wife for supporting me
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:36 PM
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You guys are confusing me,how do I know if the Apps needs reset or not,my truck runs good,but I have had a fairly massive drop in MPG,I'm getting about 15mpg now,and I used to get 21mpg.
I have not noticed anything wrong with my EGT's,they might be a little warmer than before,but not too bad.

Mr.Krabs's Sig:
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:07 PM
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You got nothin to lose by tryin it. It doesn't cost a dime, takes about 1/2 an hour and doesn't put any parts at risk as long as you follow the directions.

If you have any loss of power, loss of MPG, higher EGT's, dead pedal or many more symptoms it can be attributed to this. Over time this sensor just works it's way out of adjustment and needs to be reset.
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