Air Intake Mods - Page 2

Maj Easy · #16 06-24-2007, 08:27 AM

here's some pics of different intakes.

ram air offers free boost...

but most like the hot air from the engine compartment....

Maj Easy · #17 06-24-2007, 09:09 AM

your truck may not need a snorkel
and in this country snorkels are not popular...

but the ram air principal is the same whether the air comes from the height of cab top or the side of the hood or fender.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&r...ir&btnG=Search

Dr. Evil · #18 06-24-2007, 11:55 AM

Originally Posted by jefff929

the uni

So Whats the issue with the Scotty 2? You dont like it? you dont think its good? I know that he did some pretty extensive testing with his filters, and many other types of filters, including the BHAF. As well, all of his testing/research was supported by oil analysis.

Maj Easy · #19 06-24-2007, 12:46 PM

The Myth of "Ram Air" Induction

[ Kevin Hotton :: 21 Feb 2001 ]

Air filter modifications are a typical performance upgrade for BMW engines.
The addition of a free-flowing cone filter is the most common. Considerable verbiage has been written on this subject but I feel confusion remains.

This article addresses the perceived benefit of a "rammed air" intake system.

It is common knowledge that a car at speed can provide a ramming effect to the air entering a hood scoop. Common sense would suggest that this additional pressurization of the intake air reaching the air filter would result in increased engine performance, but is this added pressure really worth much? I have looked into this question and the short answer is no.

for more info clicky

jefff929 · #20 06-24-2007, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by Dr. Evil

So Whats the issue with the Scotty 2? You dont like it? you dont think its good? I know that he did some pretty extensive testing with his filters, and many other types of filters, including the BHAF. As well, all of his testing/research was supported by oil analysis.

Maybe I'm not quite right

I want to make sure it is dryed and then oiled properly before putting it back on. In the mean time I wanted something to run so I got a BHAF. I wish there were other options. Having the filter dry and evenly distributed oil are issues. I wish there were a paper filter that I could slip an outerwears on while I'm fussing with the Uni. Am I being overly cautious?

Whit · #21 06-24-2007, 01:12 PM

I agree that no real gain in pressure however here is the gains

Let's assume the factory airbox with its inlet behind the headlights draws in 70F air. A modified car with an exposed cone filter might breathe 110F warm air under the hood. Comparing the difference in air density with these two conditions reveals the warm air is 7.5% less dense than the cooler air and would consequently reduce engine power by a similar percentage - 158-hp vs 170-hp - a 12-hp reduction!

Dr. Evil · #22 06-24-2007, 01:22 PM

Originally Posted by jefff929

Maybe I'm not quite right

I want to make sure it is dryed and then oiled properly before putting it back on. In the mean time I wanted something to run so I got a BHAF. I wish there were other options. Having the filter dry and evenly distributed oil are issues. I wish there were a paper filter that I could slip an outerwears on while I'm fussing with the Uni. Am I being overly cautious?

Ok...I understand now.

Yeah, I doubt very much that there is a paper filter you can get to fit into the Scotty intake.

I would think after washing - drying would take the most time. After its dry you should be able to oil it and you should be good to go in no time.

Maj Easy · #23 06-24-2007, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by Whitmore

I agree that no real gain in pressure however here is the gains

Let's assume the factory airbox with its inlet behind the headlights draws in 70F air. A modified car with an exposed cone filter might breathe 110F warm air under the hood. Comparing the difference in air density with these two conditions reveals the warm air is 7.5% less dense than the cooler air and would consequently reduce engine power by a similar percentage - 158-hp vs 170-hp - a 12-hp reduction!

i still don't believe that an increase in air temperature is good for diesels..
years ago when my trailers were loaded heavier and they had less hp i thought they were a lot doggier in the hot days of summer.....
i yield to the pros on this stuff.
no arguement here......

Whit · #24 06-24-2007, 01:54 PM

I have read that inlet air temp of 70-90*f is best for economy.................I run a temp gauge reading from the air horn and I adjust my ram intake accordingly

**sawyer45306** · #25 06-24-2007, 02:26 PM

I am by no means an expert, but I do recall from science class in HS that warmer air compresses differently than cold air, so common reasoning would say cooler air will have a differing effect on engine performance as compared to warmer air. And since warmer air is actually expanded apart more, density wise it should mean that it will take MORE warm air for the engine to use during combustion to achieve the same result as it would with cooler air.

Maj Easy · #26 06-24-2007, 02:44 PM

Originally Posted by sawyer45306

I am by no means an expert, but I do recall from science class in HS that warmer air compresses differently than cold air, so common reasoning would say cooler air will have a differing effect on engine performance as compared to warmer air. And since warmer air is actually expanded apart more, density wise it should mean that it will take MORE warm air for the engine to use during combustion to achieve the same result as it would with cooler air.

Air/Fuel (A/F) Guage

If outside temperatures are low, your engine will run leaner than if the outside temperatures are high.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf/guages.html

Joe Diesel · #27 06-25-2007, 07:36 AM

Originally Posted by Wyatt Earp

the scotty system is a good system too bad they aren't made anymore. (at least i think)

yup Scotty is done he got out of the biz last year

The Following User Says Thank You to sawyer45306 For This Useful Post:
Maj Easy

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