fass is by far the best i have seen for a 24 valve

Kick Start's Sig:

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I'll wait for you

my opinions on a fass...
You have a filter in the tank, one hanging on the motor... why 2 more? "fuel air seperation system" how would you get air in your line? doesnt really follow thru for me. I cant justify paying 700 for a pump that is known to fail. (brushes go bad) and leave me stranded....

If I had the time & money I would spend it on the RASP which runs off your motor and not a electric pump. You can add filters if you would like..... yeah the FASS looks cool but I think its talked up more than anything

there are quite a few guys on TDR that are running the Holly pumps. so far there are a handfull that have been known to seep but I havent heard of any failures yet

Downside to a Holly blue.... its loud! but you wont hear it over your cummins! just on Key-ON you will hear the motor which is good but others might look at you funny. I just tell them is the smaller motor starting the big one.

just my .02, It might not be your thought but its mine

IC Smoke's Sig:

CUMMINS POWER
1990 W350 LE Project Restoration
2001 2500 DTT,3rd gen head, TWIN TURBOS Stage 2 MONSTER pump!
2006 2500 4x4 5" exhaust, H2 rims, Smarty JR, AFE stg 1, B&W GN

I would deffinately agree that if your looking to spend that kind of money on a fueling system the RASP is the only way to go. Will fuel any HP you could ever want and completely dependable. If your somebody looking to squeeze every once of Hp out of your truck the FASS and air removal ideas, may hold some merrit. But that's alot of money for that little bit of merrit. So far the Walbro is the only pump that I have heard nothing bad about and the price is deffinately right on them. Myself, I have fought this fueling problem to death and am even using a side by side, dual pump system right now so that I know I am never broke down on the road for LP problems. These two pumps run completely independent of each other. I think the RASP is gonna be my next stop. If I would have done it in the first place I would have saved money by now.

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99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

ok i think we are going to go with the Holly Blue and i looked at the big line kit from vulcan for $115....has anybody on here hooked up a blue without using a kit?....i know i can plumb it my only problem is where to get the pigtail....anybody have any ideas on this one?

Edit: ok i read back and seen the Ian didnt use the vulcan kit, Ian what did you do about the pigtail?

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Mine: 2007 Dodge MegaDually 5.9 CTD 4x4 auto Smarty
Hers: 2001 Dodge Quadcab 5.9 CTD 4x4 auto Edge Juice
Puller: 1997 Dodge Extendcab LWB 5.9 CTD 4x4 5spd P-Pump
Parts: 1994 Dodge Regcab LWB 5.9 CTD 4x4 auto P-Pump

Not looking to step on anyones toes here...just supply some info

This is taken directly from the Piers Diesel website. This info is from Piers and NOT from the makers of the FASS units:

"Typically fuel tanks are usually mounted at least two feet below and ten feet away from the fuel pump. This configuration creates multiple problems associated with the fuel delivery to the engine. First, the injection pump has to draw the fuel from the tank by creating a vacuum. When diesel fuel is drawn by a vacuum fuel vapor is produced. Second, while the vehicle is underway the fuel is sloshing around in the fuel tanks creating entrained air. This circumstance has created a situation far from the manufacturer test cell conditions which results in air and vapor being mixed in with the fuel when it is delivered to the injector. By having entrained air and air vapor in the fuel the engine does not perform at the engine manufacturer's specification. Air and fuel vapor occupy the space that should have pure fuel, thus delaying the injection of fuel into the combustion chamber. This phenomenon is better known as "RETARDED TIMING." Air/vapor present in fuel is very inconsistent also causing varying degrees of changes in injection timing."

If you ever get the chance to see the FASS trailer and the FASS demonstration - make sure you take it in. I seen it last summer and Brad Exstam, the inventer of the FASS system schooled me on this very topic. He'll make a believer out of you too.

As far as the product being pricey, sure. As far as the product falling apart because brushes fail - are you kidding me? Never seen one in my 3 years of selling them. The product is by far the best out there. Never had a return, a failure or a recall. That has to say something.

I'm not saying it is the only way but considering the easy instal, the number of times a stock LP can take a dump and the cost of a VP44 or CP3 (installed or otherwise) you are looking at a way to save it. Not soing so to save $50 is a mistake.

More filters - very important. I don't know what you mean by having one in the tank - you don't if you by pass the in-tank pump or never had that to begin with. I run all my setups with the 144, the 12 and the 6um filters - all fleetguard. Never a problem.

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There have been a few FASS failures mentioned but it is probably the best system short of one of the mechanical systems. Most of the failures have had to do with bad connections etc in the electrical supply. Getting rid of the air in the fuel and having the extra filtration also has a lot of merit. That said, I decided on the Walbro because I can carry an extra pump under the seat for all the times when I'm way back in the sticks with no access to parts for a fass system. Of equal importance imo is to get rid of the restrictions in the system caused mostly by the banjos. I used a 3/8 line and maintain 12 psi wot at the output side of the filter. In case of any fuel supply system failure I can wire my replacement pump directly off the batt, fix hose problems with spare hose and a couple of clamps etc and get back to civilization. Now if I could just figure out a way to back up the vp44 I'd have it made! Oh well... I love my truck!

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:m:02qcsb 5spd va gsl392 m1.6...

i really appreciate the imput on my prob. I keep finding lil things that need my attention on this thing and so far this is my biggest prob yet. seriously considering going with the holly blue w/o the big line kit if I can get away with it. if not then i'll bite the bullet and go ahead with the vulkon kit.

miss_un_glued's Sig:

2001, Black, 2500 CTD, Quad Cab, Auto, 4x4, 3.73, Holly Blue, 315/75/16 Wild Country RVTs, 2" Top Gun Customz Leveling Kit, Third Gen Lower Control Arms, Edge Juice w/ Attitude, Pillar mount, Mystery Switch, Straight Pipe, HX35, Silencer Ring MIA

Quarter Mile
14.5/99 MPH

I just installed an Eliminator Its one SWEET Set up and its a 500,000 Mile Pump , PSI also offers the Performer System its a 150,000 Mile Pump

find them here

www.wickeddiesels.com

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I didnt use the old stock fuel filter with my fass just the two on the fass. now i need something for my 12 valve.

Yeah, Ive been thinking about putting a FASS on my 12V so I dont have to change that #$%%^^$ fuel filter so often. Seems like its a lot of money for something thats not necessary. Would be nice if Vulcan put together a big line kit for 12V's (are you reading this Eric??)...

just wanted to let everyone know that I ordered the holly blue along with the vulcan wiring harness. going to install within the week!!! (i'll finally be able to run wot without runnin 0 psi) thanks for all the input and advice!

miss_un_glued ->

Dont just buy the harness....seriously....get the big line kit/with LP relocation. It eliminates all the banjo bolts and makes a world of difference.....not so much in pressure but in the volume of fuel delivered to your injector pump (which in turn cools and lubricates your pump). I would not steer you wrong with this and this mod is just about the biggest bang for the buck on a 24V second gen truck. Trust me, its well worth the money...

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...er-Pump/Detail

Look at it this way, if you can afford to buy the performance goodies, you need to spend the money to address the fuel system issues (u dont want to have to but another IP)...just my 2 cents...FWIW...

What the good Dr. forgot to mention that is if you don't do this change now you will later when your replacing the IP. If you looking for HP these bigger lines and fittings in place of the banjo's is a must.

i agree with the doc here to. pushing fuel through the stock banjo bolts is going to make the holley work twice as hard also, which i think is where running the holleys got a bad name in the first place. why not open up the system and take some stress off of the pump?

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not to fast, but not to slow either.:j:[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]