Valve Springs
#1
Valve Springs
My question is I am considering doing a 4k GSK on my 97 12 v. and I'm wondering what the process is like changing the exhaust springs in the valves so they don't float if I put a 4k kit in. I need to change the valve cover gaskets anyway as they are leaking some oil, and I may as well make any changes in there while I have them apart. Any tips or suggestions for tools that may be needed to accomplish the spring change would be helpful.
#2
#3
What do you mean they're a waste of time? I understand with the 4k kit you're likely to float a valve without changing the springs. I'll check out the website and see what it says.
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I did a search on hamiltons cams website and haven't been able to find it. If you could post a link I would appreciate it.
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I found the site, and I'll be contacting them. Although I am more curious about the procedure of removing and reinstalling them.
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I did a search on hamiltons cams website and haven't been able to find it. If you could post a link I would appreciate it.
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I found the site, and I'll be contacting them. Although I am more curious about the procedure of removing and reinstalling them.
Last edited by cawhorses; 03-24-2010 at 04:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#4
#8
What really hasn't been discussed yet is the procedure for changing the springs...
You'll need a valve spring compressor that lets you change the springs while still on the truck. These are available in several ways, from one of the great vendors that support this site, from a local tool truck, from certain automotive stores, and even from on-line sales like Amazon.com. There are two tools that generally work, with personal preferences dictating the one that most guys use:
The screw type
The lever type
The rest of the valve change is similar to most other engines -- depress the spring, pop down the upper seat, remove the split keepers with a magnet, remove the stock springs, reverse the process with the new springs.
While you're in there, also set the tappet clearance (valve lash). This is supposed to be done ever 24,000 miles. I wonder just how many actually ever check their solid lifter valve lash? We've gotten so spoiled over the years driving hydraulic lifter vehicles that doing things like making internal adjustments to keep engines running at their peak power is alien to our thought process!
Geno's Garage via DodgeRam.org has a great technical article on the procedure:
B Series Valve Adjustment
Getting at the last set of valves on the rear of the engine is a bit tricky, but it can be done with patience and forbearance (of a saint ).
Getting ready to do mine also...
You'll need a valve spring compressor that lets you change the springs while still on the truck. These are available in several ways, from one of the great vendors that support this site, from a local tool truck, from certain automotive stores, and even from on-line sales like Amazon.com. There are two tools that generally work, with personal preferences dictating the one that most guys use:
The screw type
The lever type
The rest of the valve change is similar to most other engines -- depress the spring, pop down the upper seat, remove the split keepers with a magnet, remove the stock springs, reverse the process with the new springs.
While you're in there, also set the tappet clearance (valve lash). This is supposed to be done ever 24,000 miles. I wonder just how many actually ever check their solid lifter valve lash? We've gotten so spoiled over the years driving hydraulic lifter vehicles that doing things like making internal adjustments to keep engines running at their peak power is alien to our thought process!
Geno's Garage via DodgeRam.org has a great technical article on the procedure:
B Series Valve Adjustment
Getting at the last set of valves on the rear of the engine is a bit tricky, but it can be done with patience and forbearance (of a saint ).
Getting ready to do mine also...