I am putting a 1996 12 valve in my 2003 1 ton dodge and am completely lost on the fuel plate deal? Prior to this motor I had a 93 12 valve in the truck and more power made sense, but I do not get the different numbers for the fuel plates with this IP pump, can someone please lay it out in simple guy terms which fuel plates do what and how much of it? Thanks
Chad -

The fuel plate is basically a stop that allows so much fuel into the pump. As you shave the plate down, it allows more gas into the pump therefore creating more power but along with higher egts. The numbers are just the different plate profiles. Like a #0 plate has nothing on the front end while the #100 plate as a small notch at the bottom restricting fuel flow. This might help you understand the numbers:


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rkadcock's Sig:

97 2500 12V Cummins
Autometer C2 Boost Pyro Trans Temp Oil Temp Nitrous Pres. Fuel Pres. Gauges
MBRP 4" TB Straight Exhaust
AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake
0 Plate FF, AFC Tuned & FF Airdog 150
DDP Competetition Injectors Industrial Injection 14mm IP
Built Suncoast Transmission
Banks Twin Ram Intake
Turbonetics IC
ARP Cylinder & Main Studs
60lb Valve Springs DDP Comp (5K) GSK
ATS Aurora Compound Turbos

07 3500 SRW 5.9 Cummins

http://www.dieselbombers.com/groups/...o-bombers.html

This is right from the TST Products website - the originators of the aftermarket Torque Plate:

All P7100 Bosch® injection pumps (the big pump used on most '94 and newer Cummins® B and C series engines including all '94 thru '98 12-valve and pre-Jan. 1998 Dodge Rams) contain a torque plate (sometimes called a cam plate in the trade) which sets maximum fuel delivery versus RPM. TST torque plates are computer designed, fuel pump test stand developed and dynamometer tested to change the maximum fuel delivery of the stock pump to a new value that will provide the new horsepower and torque curves. Each engine power rating requires a different torque plate design to achieve the same final value, in other words the TST torque plate for a 160 horse engine is a different shape from a 175 engine, etc. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

and i'm here to tell you that the #100 is the best all around choice hands down!if you keep ypur foot out of it you won't see any difference in milage,but when you mat it you have the same power you will get out of a #0 which is the hardest fueling plate. -

BAD ASS RAM's Sig:

1997 RAM 2500 12 VALVE.100hp INJECTORS,#100 FUEL PLATE FULL FOREWARD, MODIFIED AND TUNED AFC HOUSING,HX35/40 HYBRID,NO SILENCER RING ,WASTE-GATE PLUGGED.BOOST,AND PYROMETER GAUGES.W/BUILT AUTO TRANNY AND BILLET CONVERTER,TC LOCK UP SWITCH,CHAMBERED DUAL 5"SLASH CUT STACKS,TRACTION BARS AND 17"X9"MOTO METAL WHEELS,WITH 295/75/17 NITTO TERRA GRAPPLERS

Great info guys, got the cummins all cleaned up and painted tonight, will be sticking it in tomorrow, whats up with the other fuel plates, the 5, 6, 8, etc. Are they simply intermediate and not worth mentioning? Why does the 10 plate have the point on it, does that do something at a certain rpm? Also, the engine I'm putting in has an electric fan clutch on it , not the usual thermal clutch, whats up with that, how is it wired, whats it worth? And finally, how do I put the 3 k spring kit in, I did it on my rotary pump and it was a noticable differnce, need to do same with this motor. -

The others are worth mentioning but most people are running #0s and 100s... I ran a #5 plate before I got power crazy and it added quite a bit of power so I wouldn't call it intermediate. As for the #10 plate having the horn, as far as I understand, its just away of restricting the fuel flow...

The other questions I can't answer but if you wait awhile they'll get answered -

And I am here to tell you that your incorrect.

Please read what the good Doctor has just posted for you and maybe you will learn something.I have said it before and I will say it again,The #100 plate is NOT the answer for all P7100's because they are all different CPL's.Yes,maybe in a P7100 out of a 5spd truck this statement would be true,but,they do not perform as well in the automatics. -

Hammer's Sig:

1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 12v 5spd Quad Cab
Flame Red Sport
Mason-Dixon Turbo Diesel Club Event Co-Ordinator

Hammer is right on the money as usual. Different truck respond differently, and you have to do some experimentation as well as a lot of tweaking to get things just right. My auto (180 hp) didnt respond very well to the 100, but to be honest, so far I have not tweaked it as much as I would have liked. -

I'm am definately running a 5 speed, would there happen to be a similar diagram showing all the plates or even just a a spreadsheet with the difffernt increases per plate? I'm assuming here that the 100 is the most extreme prior to flat out black smoking number zero plate.

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Also, if I put the plate in and use the brass restrictor, am I going to have to worry about head gasket failure? Will I need head studs Immediately for concern of being stranded? -

Cummins Diesel Torque Cam Fuel Plate Dodge 5.9L 12 Valve P7100 Injection Pump

this page has the power ratings for the #11 to #5 plates. As for a diagram of them I have never seen one but I'm sure they're out there. I don't think you'll have to worry about the gasket failing unless your flooring it constantly. As far as headstuds, you should be fine with the factory studs as long as you aren't pushing over 50psi boost but its a cheap insurance policy because I blew my head off only doing about 38psi -

On that site it appears I can use a number 5, but what are the numbers in red underneath the hp rating, the 1, 2, 3, or 4?

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Also, how do these hp and torque numbers adjust if I move the plate front and back in the pump? -

The red numbers are subscripts that say the tranny from this year can't handle the power stock but I ran #5 plate for easily a year and my stock tranny held up, the only thing I noticed was that it ran a little hot (170-180 degrees) while driving in town.

I don't know the exact numbers but moving the plate forward lets more fuel in thus creating a little more power and moving it backwards restricts the fuel flow thus creating less power.l -

Pure Diesel Power Cam Plate Selection Guide

Camplate # #12 #11 #10 #8 #6 #5
Stock Rating BPH/ft-lb BPH/ft-LB BPH/ft-LB BPH/ft-LB BPH/ft-LB BPH/ft-LB
94-95 Automatic
160hp / 400ft-lb

CPL# 1549, 1815, 1959, 1968
165/440
185/500
200/550
210/560
230/605
255/650
( 1 )
94-95 Manual
175hp / 420ft-lb

96-98 Automatic
180hp / 420ft-lb

CPL# 1550, 1816, 2022, 2174
CPL# 1863 96-98 EGR ( 5 )
190/500
210/550
220/570
230/605
250/635
270/675
( 2 )
96-98 Manual
215hp / 440ft-lb

CPL# 2023, 2175
230/605
280/680
330/750
( 3, 4 ) NR
NR
NR

* Only Power Ratings up to 230/605 are EPA certified for highway use in North America. Power above 230/605 are shown for competitive applications only.


Stock 94-95 automatics will not handle this rating
Stock 96-98 automatics will not handle this rating
Stock 96-98 clutch will not handle this rating
Exhaust Gas Temperatures will run hot without airflow improvements
The California 96 -98 manual and automatic are both EGR engines ( 180hp/420ft-lb ) may not be upgraded to 230/605.
NR = Not Recommended

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nm dont look as good on the link but it says that a stock 94 auto trani can use up to the red number? -

The numbers in the paranthesis (,) are what?? -

They're like footnotes. Under that chart, their is a key for what those numbers mean. -