I need some details on how exactly to grind my fuel plate. Theirs a diesel performance place about an hour away from where i live,but they told me it would cost the same to grind it as it would to buy a new performance one.Just trying to save some money and a trip.

search the forum there is about 6 open threads on how to do it just get the profile you want and take it to a bench grinder

94cummins12v's Sig:

91 f350 crew cab 12v cummins,nv4500 ,E/F shift handle w 2low and pacbreak switch, 4" straight pipe Dual 5" bullhauler stacks, Industrial injection 370 injectors and super phat shaft 62/71/14, #100 fuel plate, 4k GSK, ARP studs,60lb valve springs,custom 191 dv's, timing 16.5*,13" ceramic valair 6sp clutch, AFE intake, custom water/meth, custom air bags, 7 guages.

Save your money and stay away from that shop that "told" you that. No way in hell it should cost anywhere near that. 20 minutes with a die grinder will do wonders.

Grinded my stocker into a #100

Stock...


#100 Profile in Red...


Mini Angle Air Grinder w/ 2" Roloc 36-grit disc...


Cut the red away...


Switch to a Roloc 3M Scotchbrite Pad for the final cleanup...


Done....

TXHC's Sig:

1994 Dodge Ram 2500 RCLB 2WD AT. 123k, BHAF, Straight Pipe. Owned since 3/7/10

Is it true that you need to keep dipping it in water to keep it cool as you grind it as not to change the metal properties?

greg@Lockitup's Sig:

1996 Dodge Club cab 4x4, 12v with AFC turned out, Amsoil 4510, 5 inch turbo back straight pipe, NVG4500, 2 inch lift
2003 Dodge QC two wheel drive, Amsoil 4510, Quadzilla max mileage module

No, there's no reason to re-temper the metal. There is no structural reason for it, because there's no stress on the part when in use.

Plus, if you start grinding til it turns blue, youre just going too slow or using the wrong grit.

I cut a #100 for a friend's truck yesterday. All he had was a 4-1/2" Angle Grinder. So I cut the rough shape with a grinding wheel, then smoothed it with a 120 flap disc. Then went back over it with a 1" drum sander chucked into a 1/2" drill to smooth out any imperfections. A quick rub down with some 320-grit sandpaper, hose it off with brake cleaner, and re-installed. Took 30 minutes from the time we opened the hood, to the time we closed it.

All the plates I have cut took no more that 10 minutes of time cutting. Most of which is in the final cleanup stage to make sure it's smooth and burr-free. It should look like it was made that way when you are done with it. If I had a video camera, I'd video the entire process, since I have a few stock plates laying around, but I'm broke.

i hit mine with the bench grinder then took a file to it to clean it up then the wire wheel

Whatever works right!? Nothing better than free power!

I am getting ready to install a TST #11 plate on my truck, what all pump mods do i need to do other than move the AFC housing foward and adjusting the star wheel for smoke control?

Scribe a line to designate where the original fuel plate was set, and install the #11 plate in the same location. Go for a run, and see how you like it. You can slide the plate further forward, as well as the AFC housing. Adjusting the starwheel forward makes soot.

My truck has the #100 plate full forward, AFC housing in stock location, starwheel full forward. Dumps black soot when I want it, but it's controllable when the cops are around.

With the profile you have shown there, is that compatible with stock injectors? and does anything need to be done to the wastegate for additional air?