Anyone got a profile or paper template for grinding a 100 plate. I have a #11 that I would like to re-profile.

Photos, faxes, or emails welcome.

usmcbay's Sig:

<USMC>
*1997 4x4 ExtCab 3500 5spd Dually - X-Silencer, PVC Intake w/Amsoil 4510 Filtration, 4k GSK, #100, 60lb Springs, Boost Elbow, KDP-X'd, '03 TB, DSS, Lukes Links, Moog's.
*2003 4x4 4dr LB 2500 Auto - Edge EZ, X-Silencer, PVC Intake w/Amsoil 4510 Filtration

There is a really good one floating around here but i dont have it saved. here is another that has most of the common ones.

Do you have a tst #11?

Attached Images

allplateprofiles.jpg (73.2 KB, 87 views)

xzaq103's Sig:

SOUTHERN DIESEL EXTREME
WWW.SouthernDieselX.com
Home of SDX Injectors!!!

Cell (479)-799-3953
Shop (479)-856-6433

1998 2500 12 valve QC 616 HP on Fuel 717/1500+ on the bottle
Pulling Project 1965 Power Wagon "Bugly"

Any reason you wouldn't just go with a zero plate?

Fuels harder down low and if you havent move the gov arm the arm can go under the plate.

i had mine grinded all the way i just made sure the gov arm struck the plate and didnt slide under

BEERPLAY's Sig:

2007 4x4 MEGA 5.9 NOT STOCK AT ALL

I LIVE MY LIFE TO THE FULLEST CAN OF BEER THAT IS NEAR

AND BROKE DOWN'S WIFE HAS VERY LARGE BREASTS

Dr. Evil's Sig:

DIESEL BOMBERS LEAD ADMINISTRATOR

CLICK HERE FOR SPONSORSHIP INFORMATION
CLICK HERE TO BECOME A PREMIUM MEMBER AKA BOMBARDIER
___________________________________________

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

Tune your afc to bring the fuel on when you want to. You can remove the screw that adjusts the governor arm with the zero plate. The AFC is what controls the fuel prior boost being "seen". If you had the AFC foot and barrel ground, that would give you more fuel down low than just a zero plate by itself, by the way.

Yes... I am happy with the newly found power. I know I need to fine tune the AFC. I get a bit more gray smoke than I would like to see... I know that while the engine is off the arm is about 1/8" + under the striking edge of the plate. I need to mess with the star wheel. I loosened the locknut on the back of the AFC and turned the screw in until it Juuust hit the diaphram. I need to fine tune that. Still not 100% on all the functions of everything - but I have been educating myself on and off for 8yrs now with CTD in my blood...

So when the truck is OFF... the arm should be striking the EDGE of the plate? I've read the write up where it should be adjusted at Idle.

so when you play with them little screw on the back of the AFC it will bring the arm up or down?

94cummins12v's Sig:

91 f350 crew cab 12v cummins,nv4500 ,E/F shift handle w 2low and pacbreak switch, 4" straight pipe Dual 5" bullhauler stacks, Industrial injection 370 injectors and super phat shaft 62/71/14, #100 fuel plate, 4k GSK, ARP studs,60lb valve springs,custom 191 dv's, timing 16.5*,13" ceramic valair 6sp clutch, AFE intake, custom water/meth, custom air bags, 7 guages.

Now everything I have read says to screw the bottom left screw IN and it will raise the Arm.

I haven't done it yet - so everything is hear-say and not experience.

Here is a link to what I have read...

CumminsDatabase.com :: Turning Up A P7100 Pump

It doesn't necessarily move the arm up or down, just increases or decreases the distance of the arc it travels on. With the afc off and the plate removed, you can move the throttle lever and see what I'm talking about. I believe turning the screw right will "raise" the arm, per say, to contact the bottom of the plate.

When I move the throttle arm I see the gov arm go forward and under the torque plate. I looked at it with the plate still in. I will try some adjusting and fine tuning. I sure wish I could come up with a quick connect intake... On-Off, On-Off...

You guys are checking it with the shut off pulled up right?

Very good point, Ducky. Simplest way to do it is remove the two bolts from the shutoff solenoid attached to the bracket.

Yes, the arm will slide under the plate, if A) you grind your stocker to a #0, and B) you don't adjust the governor arm to compensate. It is a fairly easy process to do. I'm not sure how the fuel filter housings are set up on other 12 valves, but if they're like mine, get yourself a small flathead apex bit and a 1/4" (I believe) combination wrench. It will make life a lot easier. Also, when you adjust the nut, you may not be able to get the socket for the jamb nut in there. Lift the throttle lever slightly, as this will allow a better angle on the nut, than with the lever down. Wish you guys were closer, I'd stop by and help. Some things are easier shown, than explained.