5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07 Discussion of 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Common Rail Injection

Still starting hard

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Old 05-18-2012, 05:16 PM
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Default Still starting hard

So i just got my truck back from the mechanic and he replaced all the injector rings and a couple of injector tubes that looked bad. He said all the injectors don't look bad at all. I got the truck back and it seemed to be starting fine, but now it started starting hard again. I have had my fuel tank cleaned out about four months ago, new lift pump, the CP3 was tested and is good. I took my fuel filter out and drained the canister and i found dirt and gelled diesel at the bottom. i cleaned it out the best i could and put the filter back in, (which is new). Started right up, but started doing it again. I change the fuel filter every oil changed about every 7,000 miles Do you think i could just have dirty fuel lines? What should i do?
By the way the truck had 130000 miles on it.
 
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:34 AM
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i had the same problem, i bought my truck with 208,000 miles on it and litterally no maintnence was done on it except oil changes.......after i changed out the fuel filter and a few other things it was still starting hard, i brought it to a local shop and he said the injectors were shot (they were, i watched him run the test) a while after i changed them it was cranking slow again, then one night when i went to a friends house it cranked FOREVER before it started. the next time i started the truck the starter gave out, after replacing it she hasent started hard since then, and thats including 20 degrees and not having it plugged in!
 
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:08 AM
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are you using a fuel additive? My 05 is the same way until I put a little mystery oil in it. The older models do not like the low sulfur fuel.
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by helton87
i had the same problem, i bought my truck with 208,000 miles on it and litterally no maintnence was done on it except oil changes.......after i changed out the fuel filter and a few other things it was still starting hard, i brought it to a local shop and he said the injectors were shot (they were, i watched him run the test) a while after i changed them it was cranking slow again, then one night when i went to a friends house it cranked FOREVER before it started. the next time i started the truck the starter gave out, after replacing it she hasent started hard since then, and thats including 20 degrees and not having it plugged in!
Yeah I'm sorta thinking injectors but then again I would think it would run like craps, but it runs great. My starter seems strong, did yours shows any sign before it went out?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by EOD
are you using a fuel additive? My 05 is the same way until I put a little mystery oil in it. The older models do not like the low sulfur fuel.
Yes I run kleen diesel.
 

Last edited by JimmyT; 05-28-2012 at 03:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:17 AM
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pull the injectors and have them flow tested....you can not tell if anything is wrong with them just by looking at them. i belive the problem is with the checkball seats in yours causing a high return rate. this will cause a hard start or no start condition but once its running it will run decent.
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cummin_un_glued
pull the injectors and have them flow tested....you can not tell if anything is wrong with them just by looking at them. i belive the problem is with the checkball seats in yours causing a high return rate. this will cause a hard start or no start condition but once its running it will run decent.
Are they pretty hard to pull out? would i need special tools or anything?
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:56 PM
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no special tools required if youve never done it before i suggest doing some research
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:12 PM
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I have changed 2 of mine so far, (didn't have the cash to fix them all) but I had a local shop shut off the injectors one at a time and it showed us what injectors were the worst and I just changed those for the time being, but the starter gave me no sign but just slowing down and then it just stopped. If u google how to change injectors on your make and model you can find an adobe step by step instructions but you have to dig for it! It took me some looking but it's not hard, I changed mine in a few hours and basic tools. The only thing that is a "special tool" would be a torque wrench (ft lbs AND in lbs) and a pry bar, u can get the injectors out with it just put a rag between the injector and the bar so u don't mess it up for the core charge! I'll try and find the instructions for you
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by helton87
I have changed 2 of mine so far, (didn't have the cash to fix them all) but I had a local shop shut off the injectors one at a time and it showed us what injectors were the worst and I just changed those for the time being, but the starter gave me no sign but just slowing down and then it just stopped. If u google how to change injectors on your make and model you can find an adobe step by step instructions but you have to dig for it! It took me some looking but it's not hard, I changed mine in a few hours and basic tools. The only thing that is a "special tool" would be a torque wrench (ft lbs AND in lbs) and a pry bar, u can get the injectors out with it just put a rag between the injector and the bar so u don't mess it up for the core charge! I'll try and find the instructions for you
That would be awesome thanks a bunch.
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:33 PM
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i'll save you some searching.

pull both crank case vent tubes from valve cover
remove 13mm nut off of the head lifting bracket stud
loosen 8mm bolt on #6 injector line clamp and rotate out of way
remove 2 15mm bolts from head lifting bracket
loosen 2 13mm bolts holding sheild at back of the head
use prybar to rotate sheild out of the way
remove all 6 19mm injector line nuts off at the tubes
take 19mm high pressure feed line nut off of the bottom of the fuel rail
remove 7 10mm bolts holding fuel rail, take fuel rail off and set aside
remove 2 T15 screws from MAP sensor and remove sensor from intake plate
remove all 6 15/16" connecting tube nuts
pull all 6 tubes out of the head
remove the 4 10mm bolts out of the plastic valve cover and remove
remove the 2 8mm bolts out of the crank case vent filter and remove
remove the 6 10mm bolts from the aluminum valve cover and set aside
next there are 2 wires on each injector, put something on one wire on each so you dont mix up which wire gos to which post
remove the 2 8mm nuts on each injector solinoid
remove the 7 10mm bolts holding the rocker box down and set it aside take care not to let any of the nuts hang on the injectors
remove 10mm bolts from each exhaust rocker and remove exhaust rockers and set aside
remove 2 8mm bolts from each injector hold down
use a screw driver or small prybar to pry each injector out

reverse steps for reinstallation

torque specs-

injectors:
step 1: 8mm hold down bolts 44in lb
step 2: loosen 8mm hold down bolts completly back off
step 3: install connecting tubes and torque 15/16" nuts to 12ft lb or 144in lb
step 4: torque 8mm hold down bolts to 89in lb
step 5: torque connecting tube nuts to 37ft lb

solinoid nuts DO NOT over tighten just past finger tight is enough

rockers: 27ft lb
 
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