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5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07 Discussion of 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Common Rail Injection

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  #1  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:26 PM
hydroshok's Avatar
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Default Engine Knock

My motor developed a knocking sound that used to just be at idle and now it is getting worse. I took it to the shop and they said it sounds like a burnt valve and would cost $750 labor, $400 for headwork, $200 for head studs and $350 for a new head gasket with shims. Does this sound reasonable or should I just buy a new head with ARP studs and do it myself?

The truck just clicked over 121k, injectors were replaced and valve lash adjusted at 114K shortly after the knock started. I change my oil every 5k with Rotella, but recently I noticed the oil filter is only half full and no oil comes out when I take it off. Maybe a good flush would get more oil into the valve train and it might stop? It runs fine and has plenty of power. Could it harm anything else if I keep running it?

I wanted to get some opinions before I give the shop all that money or buy a new head. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

hydroshok's Sig:
89 cummins/83 crew cab 5spd 2wd: P-pump 24v, 10 spd roadranger, 05 E-450 rear, push button start, pull cable and gauges
01 2500 4x4 5spd: 12 valve swap, 4kgsk, 19*, AFE intake, AirDog, HX40, air ride, exhaust brake and gauges
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  #2  
Old 02-08-2011, 02:23 PM
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You sure your not loosing an injector?
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2011, 02:50 PM
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Did the knock go away and then come back when you replaced the injectors? Or just stay the same?

Lil Red Express's Sig:02 Ram 3500 Cummins, 453HP 1001TQ Uncorrected, Fully Built Goerend Trans, , Scheid Lightning Pump, Adrenaline/Pulse, AFE intake, FASS, 120HP Dragon Flow, PhatShaft 62, Pulse Manifold, Stacks..........

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  #4  
Old 02-08-2011, 07:16 PM
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Drop a valve seat? Where any valves way out of adjustment? Do it yourself send the head out for rebuild with the better seats and buy a set of studs and be done with it!

dangerous1965's Sig:Goodies so far S&B intake,Silver bullet 64,AFE Stainless steel manifold, 90hp sticks, Head studs, 5" exhaust,SMARTY SSR,Airdog 150, 1/2" big Line kit,Gutted lift pump housing with draw straw Mod, T&C diesel CP-3,MP-8 at Half power, Custom intake with heater grid delete High Ram Intake, Built tranny, More guages than can be expected! 225 70r 19.5 tires at 80psi nitrous for laughs!
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2011, 08:52 AM
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Sorry guys I was on the road with no wifi...

Originally Posted by gosperformance View Post
You sure your not loosing an injector?

The truck rund fine and they were just replaced. Had a shop run an injection test with their snap on computer and everything is good.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by Lil Red Express View Post
Did the knock go away and then come back when you replaced the injectors? Or just stay the same?
It has stayed the same, but getting progressively worse as I go.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by dangerous1965 View Post
Drop a valve seat? Where any valves way out of adjustment? Do it yourself send the head out for rebuild with the better seats and buy a set of studs and be done with it!
How would I know if I dropped a valve seat? Everything was in adjustment. I checked it cold per the instructions posted by superdave. Know any good shops that do head work around PA? What about the cost for the headgasket, shims and difficulty to install if you have to shim it?

Last edited by hydroshok; 02-10-2011 at 08:53 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2011, 11:14 AM
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How can I tell the difference between a rod knocking, an injector going bad, and just the normal running of the engine? I see all these posts, but not sure how to tell the difference.

el jefe's Sig:06 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 CR, 4" MBRP single cat, S&B CAI, 3in1 gauge, Bully Dog Triple Dog (still trying various levels), 35 12.50 17 DCII on stockers, tranny built by TRE Diesel
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:20 AM
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Make I quick video of it and upload it to this thread.
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  #8  
Old 02-10-2011, 01:33 PM
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What part of Pa are you in?

Sirwrenchiezolot's Sig:2006 4X4 RAM 2500 White Sport 6 Shooter K&N Intake Silincer ring MIA Straightpiped to 2 6in bullhaulers Southbend 3600 with hydraulic upgrade (superchips was free in a trade so dont poke too much fun) Smarty and gauges on the way when funds permit 80s metal 4 ever!
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2011, 05:53 PM
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[]What part of Pa are you in?[/quote]

I'm north of Pittsburgh.


I took the truck to the better diesel shop which is unfortunately further away for me, but they said it sounded like an exhaust valve not opening correctly. They prefer to check the valve lash hot, or they got used to doing it that way. I'm not sure exactly, but the #1 and #2 exhaust valves were loose. They tightened it up and I was good to go. Bye bye knock.

Now I wonder if they got loose on me or if it is better to check it hot because everything has just been moving. I'm not an expert, but I did the valve lash myself. Out of 12 I adjusted the exact same way, two were loose. I don't know if they can loosen up or if hot vs cold makes a difference, but I took my time and adjusted each one the same. Any thoughts?

Last edited by hydroshok; 02-12-2011 at 05:56 PM..
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2011, 06:32 PM
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If you did it for the first time not bad! If they adjust them hot the adjustment lash will be different than cold. If you know what your doing you can do it in 30 min or less! Glad it was an easy fix!
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