5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07Discussion of 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Common Rail Injection
My motor developed a knocking sound that used to just be at idle and now it is getting worse. I took it to the shop and they said it sounds like a burnt valve and would cost $750 labor, $400 for headwork, $200 for head ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
My motor developed a knocking sound that used to just be at idle and now it is getting worse. I took it to the shop and they said it sounds like a burnt valve and would cost $750 labor, $400 for headwork, $200 for head studs and $350 for a new head gasket with shims. Does this sound reasonable or should I just buy a new head with ARP studs and do it myself?
The truck just clicked over 121k, injectors were replaced and valve lash adjusted at 114K shortly after the knock started. I change my oil every 5k with Rotella, but recently I noticed the oil filter is only half full and no oil comes out when I take it off. Maybe a good flush would get more oil into the valve train and it might stop? It runs fine and has plenty of power. Could it harm anything else if I keep running it?
I wanted to get some opinions before I give the shop all that money or buy a new head. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
The truck rund fine and they were just replaced. Had a shop run an injection test with their snap on computer and everything is good.
Originally Posted by Lil Red Express
Did the knock go away and then come back when you replaced the injectors? Or just stay the same?
It has stayed the same, but getting progressively worse as I go.
Originally Posted by dangerous1965
Drop a valve seat? Where any valves way out of adjustment? Do it yourself send the head out for rebuild with the better seats and buy a set of studs and be done with it!
How would I know if I dropped a valve seat? Everything was in adjustment. I checked it cold per the instructions posted by superdave. Know any good shops that do head work around PA? What about the cost for the headgasket, shims and difficulty to install if you have to shim it?
Last edited by hydroshok; 02-10-2011 at 08:53 AM..
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I took the truck to the better diesel shop which is unfortunately further away for me, but they said it sounded like an exhaust valve not opening correctly. They prefer to check the valve lash hot, or they got used to doing it that way. I'm not sure exactly, but the #1 and #2 exhaust valves were loose. They tightened it up and I was good to go. Bye bye knock.
Now I wonder if they got loose on me or if it is better to check it hot because everything has just been moving. I'm not an expert, but I did the valve lash myself. Out of 12 I adjusted the exact same way, two were loose. I don't know if they can loosen up or if hot vs cold makes a difference, but I took my time and adjusted each one the same. Any thoughts?
Last edited by hydroshok; 02-12-2011 at 05:56 PM..
Diesel Bombers ® - All Content Protected Under Intellectual Property Rights Law of Registered Trademarks Reg. No. 3,494,401 Cls. 100, 101 & 104 Under Int. Cl. 38
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK WE HOLD NO LIABILITY FOR ANY CONTENT RIGHT, WRONG OR INDIFFERENT