Exactly. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

It does. But one of the problems with this engine, in line engines in general and even some V8s depending on design, is inadequate coolant flow at the rear of the block. This is normally not an issue, but under heavy work or high-performance mods, may cause problems. This is why the Cummins 5.9 is notorious for scoring cylinders 5&6 under certain conditions. They have sold one or another after market kits to address this shortcoming for many years. The coolant flow issue is also why they tend to develop excessive pressure in the water jacket in that area under high-rpm conditions as well.

It's a relatively simple fix. Some after market vendors would lead you to believe otherwise, selling ridiculously over priced bling fittings and tubing kits complete with regulators to naive customers like RamNu2. -

Good post I didn't know about the 5&6 problem and your way of doing it look great and cheap -

heh; in my dead engines class in college they had some failed internal parts from an over heated cylinder on number 5&6... sure wasn't pretty. i'm pretty sure i'll go with a coolant filter when ever i do the rebuild on the truck... when i got it they couldnt figure out why the damn thing overheated so often... the radiator is so plugged only half of it even gets hot. open up the cap and you can see the build up on the cores. i flushed the cooling system and even let the radiator sit with some vinegar in it and sloshed it all around... got big old chunks of god knows what out of it; but it was soft kinda like lead. so; its getting rebuilt and hot tanked someday with that; the proper coolant maintenance. -

tower_ofpower's Sig:

One thing i learned in college: DON'T!!! stick your fingers where you wouldn't stick Mr. Happy 89' W250, full fuel 1 1/2 turns, smoke screw flush with the lock, stock pin mildly ground, 1/8th timing bump whole truck refreshing in progress. Soon to be: fuel pin, 366 spring, smooth wall intake tubes once i actually start stock piling some money, turbo and manifold swap, 4" exhaust; 5 if it'll fit. and nozzles.

This way looks much cleaner than the opie version imo. Plus this one has a filter...its a no brainer! good job -

Ha Ha I guess I should stick to CompD then. No I can't explain one of those cool Opie bypass's. I am sorry I guess my little pressure relief valvethat I bought for $21 tha actually does bypass coolant from th REAR to the FRONT doesn't work. Again I will speak my piece and bYe.

Oh mine is set at 35 to open and it does work. -

RamNu2's Sig:

'06 CTD QCSB 2500 Smarty, Flux's, Floor-It, Mp-8, Snow Stage 2, GDP 392, Full Hts,
681hp 1252tq
12.68@110mph 1/4

whats a comp D..................some kinna bomb??? -

Whit's Sig:

* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

Always remember...when life hands you Lemons,ask for Tequila and Salt and call me over!

Great avatar for that Whit! -

Or he got a D in comprehension?? -

wildbill's Sig:

I Drive An 06 Dodge Ram 2500

Powered By a 5.9 Cummins

It Has Some Parts But Could Use More

96,000 Miles

Big Sky Bombers Social Group

I like it!! Can we have a parts / shopping list?
Only thing I noticed was that with your design (Mainly with the filter being that 'high' in the system) is that valves might not be necessary (At least for filter changes as long as any coolant pressure is released first!).

I thought your 'research' on the summer time heater core bypass was interesting. I had seen others state it was more like a 20F drop or something. If it is only 3F then it wouldn't be worth the price of the valves!! Only thing I noticed on my truck is that there is a big difference between the left vents and the right vents when running the A/C. I think I have something going on in there. There are times that it won't change between the vent position and the floor. Most of the time it does change just fine. A couple of times on her it wouldn't change at all and a couple on me it would wait until I let off the throttle (Kind of like a vehicle that uses vacuum to operate the doors inside the HVAC box).
There have been a few issues with the blend door on these (Dodge) trucks. I wonder if the guys who had bigger temp changes by shutting off the heater core had issues with theirs? That might make a bigger difference in A/C performance then . . . . -

Filter head: Coolant Filter Head There's many others out there, but you need one like this with the vertical mounting holes for this application. The only unusual thing is a piece of plate steel to make the bracket. I welded some scraps together, but whatever works. the rest is pretty obvious, bolts clamps, hose, a 1/2" NPT fitting for the head port, and a 5/8" tee for the heater return line.
That's the best part about this design/location - no fuss, no mess filter changes, and no shutoff valves required to achieve that. Plus, it's easy to reach and a very clean install that doesn't block anything else under the hood at all.
That is probably a very good explanation for the A/C-heater issues, dunno. Even Dodge would not have designed it so poorly that simply shutting off the heater core flow was going to result in a dramatic difference in A/C performance. -