my 01 pwerstroke has exessive blow by and i am gettin my motor sleved and new rings. Make sure ur cylender walls are scared or you will continue to have problems. -

wisakowsky's Sig:

2001 F-250 turbo upgrade, stage 2 injectors, stage one afe cold air, egt, tranny, boost gauge, 4in turbo back exhaust, banks big head waste gate, ts 6 pos swamps programming, air ride.

The shop basicly said CHECK THE INJECTORS. In my case what started to cause it was that my crank position sensor went out and did NOT throw a CEL. Therefore, I never had any idea until I noticed the blow by.

Don't let the dealership fool you, the #6 is the one that almost always goes out and it is not because of dirty air. The tube goes right to #2 first and #6 last, if there is bad air #1-2 will suffer first. It comes down to two reasons:

1. Too much heat on #6. It is tucked in the back with the worst air flow and maybe the coolant gets too hot in the back and the temp sensor is in the front.

2. The injectors. I went ahead and replaced the #6 injector on my truck during the rebuild just to eliminate that idea. Although you couldn't link that was the problem, a $300 injector is good insurance!

Also the 04.5-05 engines are the worst for this problem, and seem to happen between 100,000 and 125,000 miles. So be careful and watch out between those years -

TXAustin's Sig:

04.5 Cummins- 6" superlift on 37" Procomp A/T, DC-1 rims, rebuilt at 103,000miles, BD Super B Special turbo, BD exhaust manifold, Head Studs, Edge juice with Hot unlock, 90hp nozzles, AIR DOG 150, 6" MBRP stacks, AFE filter, 12000# smittybuilt winch, Ranch hand, built tranny, Lock up switch

Wonderful, I'm at 83 thousand and have to worry about not getting half the miles out of my CTD that I got out of my 318 and it was still running fine at 222 thousand on AMS oil.

So I guess I need to do that mod to get more coolant to number 6 to keep it cool -

Herb, I have ran amsoil in my truck since 50k miles and I guess I can say it did not help me any unfortunatly. Also, I do not know of a mod to keep the number 6 cool and nobody knows if that is the problem, it just logicaly makes since. I would say when you get a couple thousand more miles to go ahead and just replace the injector for #6 that way you can check that off of the list.

Hopefully Dodge will get enough complaints that something might happen. -

So replacing the #6 injector will help stop this from happening or is it just what there trying and I don't expect Dodge to do a thing, but you think Cummins would step up -

Isnt that what this is for? To increase coolant flow to #5 and #6 cylinders?
New Pics of the Heater/Collant Filter Bypass -

Herb, I can not say that will prevent it from happening but at least you can "check" that off of the list so you know that is not what caused it.

And harry, that does not seem like a bad idea but I am going to wait a little bit before I do that. Now that it is getting cooler my temp is no longer going between 185-215 constantly. It stays right at 188-192 -

Mine has never got over 190 since I put the Rokk timing advance on it, use to run at 200 before that, but the bypass sounds good too, can't hurt. -

Yeah, I don't want to scare you or anything Herb. I'm not not every 04.5 and 05 has that problem. I just wanted to send out a warning from what happened to mine.

I am also going to look more into that bypass and check it out! That thread is a little messy though on the subject. -

Herb, Will that timing sensor from rokk tech interfere with other tuners that adjust timing with their own program? Just curious...looking up the rokktech sensor right now, first ive heard about it.

There is another bypass kit. Its called the opie bypass kit if you wanna look it up and compare notes. -

You can back off the rokk sensor, but pushed all the way up is 2 degrees and you can back it off using pieces of black tape, each layer is a 10th of a degree for custom tuning if needed. -

The Rokk Tech sensor is 'physically' moving the crank position sensor. It will always add what ever timing it is positioned to. Don't run it with other 'tuners' that add timing as well or you could easily have too much!! -

To answer your question-yes, the 4WD pan is relatively easy to pull. The 2WD MAY be doable, but you REALLY have to lift the engine to get the pan off-the cross member is almost against the pan.

Bob

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After 2002, Cummins will have NOTHING to do w/ our engines.

Cummins told me that Dodge bought '03 and up engines from them with NO WARRANTY at all.

"You're on your own" is what Cummins told me.

They also will NOT work on the engines unless you sign a release saying that you understand that they do not have any of the electronic specs for the engine management system. It seems Dodge refuses to let Cummins have any data on the injection system.

The local Cummins shop wanted $6000 just to pull the engine and open it up. No thanks!

I fail to see how such a dysfunctional "marriage" of chassis builder and engine builder has lasted this long!

Bob -

wow just wow, an i wanted to buy an 03 common rail, sorry to hear this guys -

captain_stabbin's Sig:

94cummins, 4"turbo back exhaust, fuel plate,

Hard to believe Cummins would let Dodge run their image down by trusting them to take care of customers, never mind letting them design the engine management system which could make your engine look like shit. -