5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07 Discussion of 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Common Rail Injection

Loud Idle but quites down at 1300RPM

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Old 07-01-2015, 01:35 AM
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Default Loud Idle but quites down at 1300RPM

So my Cummins has been running like a champ, especially since the new transmission.
so to day I start the truck and the Idle is very loud, not a knocking sound per-say just really loud typical diesel sound, thought maybe exhaust leak looked around nothing.. seems to be louder on the passenger side towards the back of the drivers door... I rev her up slowly to and she sounds normal again about 1300 and above, seems to be running smooth.
No computer codes.
I did find out my son ran her in extreme mode the other day, which blew off one of the Air to Air (Inter-cooler) lines which he fixed right away.
she was also a bit low on oil maybe a quart and a half

I'm thinking Main or Rod Bearing????

All stock, with Bully Dog (running in tow mode for AWESOME MPG), cat converter deleted.
New Trans with Alto Clutches shift kit and triple disk converter.

Thank you-all for your advice
 
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:03 AM
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Very possible on the rod knock. Or an injector issue. Any smoke? Any blow by? Fuel mileage take a dump?
 
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:43 AM
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No smoke, fuel mileage seems OK, will check for blow-by and post results.
 
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:04 PM
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No smoke, fuel mileage seems OK, no blow-by at the oil filler cap.

here is a you tube video, this shows how the sound changes in gear, stopping the truck just right I can get it to quite down.

 
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:10 PM
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Sounds like a rail pressure issue. Unplug the FCA and see what that does. Could also be the rail pressure sensor.
 
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:42 AM
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I unplugged the FCA Idled just ok with a miss-fire here and there more black smoke than normal upon rev up.
Unplugged 26.5K Injector Control Pressure
P0088 Fuel Rail System to High
P0251 Injector Pump Fuel metering control A
Plugged back in 7K ICP at idle and 15k at 2000 RPM

Could a broken flywheel make these symptoms?
 

Last edited by quadragin; 07-03-2015 at 09:45 AM. Reason: Adding
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:03 AM
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If you are getting a mis-fire with the FCA unplugged you likely have a bad injector. That would check with the rattle at idle and disappearing as pressure and duration are extended.

If you have not done so yet, check all your battery connections and wires for corrosion, load test the batteries and make sure they are good. You may have to peel insulation back at the connectors to verify you have no corrosion internally as the cables, especially cross over cable, will corrode where you cannot see it and cause the injectors to rattle at idle.

Once you have cables and connections verified a contribution test may tell you more about injector health.
 
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by cerberus60
If you are getting a mis-fire with the FCA unplugged you likely have a bad injector. That would check with the rattle at idle and disappearing as pressure and duration are extended.

If you have not done so yet, check all your battery connections and wires for corrosion, load test the batteries and make sure they are good. You may have to peel insulation back at the connectors to verify you have no corrosion internally as the cables, especially cross over cable, will corrode where you cannot see it and cause the injectors to rattle at idle.

Once you have cables and connections verified a contribution test may tell you more about injector health.
I guess that would make sense as well that breaking and placing in and out of gear would move wires around...

What is a contribution test?

Thanks
 
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:20 PM
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The in an out of gear doesn't move wires, if it did you would get misfire codes and CELs constantly.

The load on the engine changes the fuel curve and that usually changes the noise a worn sticky injector makes.

You might want to do an injector cleaning as first step. Drain and fill the fuel filter canister with your favorite cleaner, install filter, start engine and let run for 30-60 seconds, shut off and let sit over night. Heavy dose a full tank of fuel with a quart of Power Service and a quart of 2 stroke oil and drive it. The CR injector are prone to sticking if you do not use additives and cleaners due to the nature of the ULSD and asphaltenes that cook out of the fuel. It will gum injectors badly causing poor performance, misfires, knocks, rattles, and general mayhem.

A cylinder contribution test is done at an idle and measures the duty cycle of the solenoids as the ECU attempts to maintain idle rpm. Couple that with an rpm drop on a kill test and it gives a general starting point for injector health. Not by any means totally definitive but a guide where to go next.
 
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cerberus60

A cylinder contribution test is done at an idle and measures the duty cycle of the solenoids as the ECU attempts to maintain idle rpm. Couple that with an rpm drop on a kill test and it gives a general starting point for injector health. Not by any means totally definitive but a guide where to go next.
Will do the injector Cleaner tomorrow night and heavy dose the tank.
I have a bluetooth ODB II is there a PC or Phone app that does this test?

thanks alot for your help on this matter, I know so much more about the Ford 6.0 as my son has one and needless to say I have worked on just about every part of that engine.. The Cummins I know hardly anything as it has never had an issue..LOL
 


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