So I read a bunch on here and elsewhere then found some stuff that turned me off from water methanol. I didn't see much about the results I got with some of the stuff I did.

I have an 04.5 6spd and tow an 18k lb goose. Great on the flats and small grades but when I tow the sierras or tehachapies I would blow out 1450 easy and be forced down to 40mph. When I bought the truck the owner had just put a 100k mile motor in it because the previous owner to him had basically burnt the old motor down with a heavy load and crazy larry tune. The tune was stuck in the computer because the pmt was stolen. So to buy the truck I had to have the dealer reflash the computer and get it smogged. Pretty sure they gave me the crappiest detuned communist california program ever and that was likely my main prob.

I got an afe s2 dry and a 5" full magnaflow system... no egt help (didn't really expect it, just smokin deals so I got them)
I ran if for some time carefully and was bummed. Was going to get water methanol decided to do a banks technicooler kit with tubes, sleeves, and boost elbow. Just that dropped me 100 degrees at cruising speed unloaded and made it spool much quicker. Didn't tow with it so I can't say for sure. A day later I scored a deal on a smarty. Updated the software to the latest revo. Put a sw5 with timing on it and holy crap. Just towed 80 from sac past reno.... hilarious. in california 5th gear 55 at 10-1100... nevada 6th gear 70 never over 1200. Unreal. I didn't expect that tune to work even though people said it would be fine. Figured it would tach the gauge and I'd be retuning on the side of the road.

Just wanted to share my experience. Lots of people say a turbo would be a better investment than the intercooler kit for dropping egts so maybe I went out of order. It's making more power than I expected or needed... pretty happy!

What's your thoughts on a boost fooler? How much more is it going to allow? adjustable etc? It sticks at 32ish as the wastegate opens. Wasn't sure I should turn the wastegate off with the smarty? Didn't seem like a good idea.

Last question..... I never hear my fan except some mornings it seems like it's stuck on when I take off then clears up... otherwise it never seems to engage.. a/c on or anything. The water temp was getting in the 220-225 realm this weekend.. can't hear the fan. What's my next step to deal with that? It's an electric clutch or something?

 

i think i am getting myself a electric fan. i have sold a few and everybody likes them so far.

 

That was on my mind... if it helps with the slacking a/c too, it's a worthwhile investment for me out here

 

Electric fanas are great for pavement queens and toys but they have issues with a working truck. There is simply not enough room to mount enough fans to approach what the single OE can do. About 2/3 is the best that can be done.

Considering how sensitive and loaded the electrical systems are on these trucks I would approach any additional load very carefully.

The fan cluth is electrical over thermal. If the electrical component fails, the truck heats. If the thermal fails the trucks heats even though the electrical is working. Don't waste your time with anything other than an dealer or Cummins replacement. They simply do not work to the standard need in these trucks.

A boost fooler is a cheap effective addition. I will push the the boost into the mid to upper 30's under load and help your EGT's a lot.

With the Smarty and the timing it does keep in mind your EGT limits are now 1200 for extended time and 1300 for short bursts.

 

Now that's some solid info! Thanks a ton. I was amazed it stays as low as it does now. So what's the reasoning.. I read something about the additional fuel creates a situation where the probe is reading lower than the actual temps in cyl?

Yeah this thing works and that's about it. So some OEM fan and whatnots that go with it would be best.... I'm on it.

 

It is all about injection timing. The later the injection event is the hotter the EGT's read because combustion has not completely finished as it exits the cylinder. Advance the timing and the fuel burns more completly in-cylinder and transfers that energy to the piston. More energy transferred equals more power with less fuel, but, more heat is also transfered to the piston and cooling system. You will probably see coolant temps tick up 5-10% with advanced timing and a hard pull but EGT's drop in the exhaust manifold.

Thats why you cannot run at 1300 or higher for a long period of time, heat soaks the piston and can start it melting because the dwell time in-cylinder is higher. The deeper bowl design and lack of a lip in the 600 series engines leaves less metal between the crown of the piston and the cooling galleries built into the piston. Time at high cylinder temps is what kills pistons.

 

i cant keep my water temps down towing when its hot outside. of course its worse when driving slow. pulling into a fair with my sled puller on behind me waiting in line, pulling up and stopping many times. 223-225 is too hot. my egts are good with my smarty