HEY GUYS IT IS NICE TO MEET NICE GROUP OF PEOPLE WHO LOVES TO DRIVE,TOW,WORK ON,MODIFY,RACE, AND SHO THESE TRUCK IT'S TOTALLY AMAZING. I HAVE HAD 2 DODGE RAM 3500'S BOTH MANUEL TRANSMISSIONS AND 1 WAS A 12 VALVE AND MY CURRENT ONE THE RED 1999 DODGE 3500 WHICH I AM HAVING SOME CLUTCH ISSUES AND I REALLY DON'T WANT TO PULL THE TRANS UNLESS I HAVE TO IT STARTED OUT WITH GEARS BEING A LITTLE TOUGH GOING IN AND THEN THE PEDAL WAS A LITTLE LOWER AND SOFTER TO IT WANT ENGAGE AT ALL . THER WAS NO CLUTCH SLIPPAGE AT ALL I PULL A 24FT ENCLOSED WITH OUT ANY PROBLEMS. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED :w 2:

 

Does it grind and then go in? Can you Float the gears w/o the clutch? You just hit the throttle a bit to get the syncros going and it should slide into gear. It is very easy to do while moving, but not so much when pulling out. I'd Try bleeding it or replacing the hydraulics first. It sounds like that is your problem. To bleed it you take out the slave cylinder and hold it vertical while depressing the piston. If bubbles come out in the reservoir then that was mostly likely your problem.

 

Hello Hydroshok, thats exactly how got it home was float the gears with no grinding,when it first started it felt like you could feel the syncos just a little bit and then i started noticing that when i would come to a red light and clutched it ,it still felt like was in gear like slow motion on releasing,thanks very much for your quick reply

 

No problem bud. Hopefully that helps you and if you have the 5spd and know where the reverse light switch is please let me know. Let me know if that fixed it or not because I think mine might need bled. Dude I bought it from says it took him 30min to change the clutch and 8 hours to bleed the slave cylinder. It may be a common problem. Have you searched for it? Southbend sells upgraded hydraulics for $175 I think. I'd rather have that than mess with the stock junk.

 

to bleed the stock junk, I learned a neat little trick on my 85 ford that had similar stock junk.

take your slave cylinder off and take your line off of your master. use it like a syringe and a straw, and have a little patience. use your hose to stick in your bottle of fluid, having someone hold it from spilling is a must. squeeze all of the air out of your slave and let your line pick up fluid from your bottle. do this slowly as hydraulic fluids all like to pick up air, and repeat this several times while always keeping your slave vertical to let the air get to the line. when putting it back in, attach your line to your master first and remove your reservoir cap before compressing your slave against your clutch.... this has worked on every clutch I have encountered so far, even when the book says it cannot be done, and thats exactly what the books all say. good luck

 

hello guys, i replaced the old hydraulics with the upgraded ones and that didn't fix the problem but i since pulled the trans and found a mess, the center of the clutch was destroyed and hadn't had any clutch slippage at all . the clutch and pressure plate looked good and the flywheel looked great. the pilot bearing was completely gone ,vanished nothing in the flywheel. i noticed the bearing wear on the input shaft does anyone make replacement bearing and repair sleeve for the input shaft.if not has anyone every used that bushing that they sell seperately from the clutch kits and it says it will have to have flywheel mods any help would be greatly appreciated,99-DODGE RAM 3500 RED 5-S.

 

I would get a Valair 13" Upgrade Kit