I have a 99 with a fass fuel pump and 1/2 line going to the fuel filter and my pressure stays around 9 psi all the time, whether if its at idle or pulling, and i was just wondering if there is anything that i should do or not to worry about it. (ps. sometimes it does climb to 12-13 psi but not all the time.) -

9 is at the bottom of the acceptable rangebut it is fine as long as it doesn't drop below that any time. I would however be concerned with why it fluctuates periodically. That could be a problem in the making. -

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

MINIMUM FUEL PRESSURE 10 PSI... -

Mopar1973Man's Sig:

2002 Dodge Cummins - Michael Nelson

Straight from the man MOPAR1973MAN. Thanks Michael. Good info.

Lift Pump Diagnostics
TSB 14-002-03
Diesel Transfer Pump Diagnosis
Overview:
Improved diagnostic procedures are available which will greatly improve identifying a faulty fuel transfer pump. The improved procedures test the 'flow" capability of the transfer pump. It sufficient fuel reaches the injection pump from the low-pressure system, then the cause of engine performance problem(s) lies elsewhere.

Specifications:



Equipment Required:


6977 Kit, Diesel Fuel Pressure (Includes 06628 Gauge and #8976 Fitting)
6631 Adapter, Fuel Pressure

Diagnostic Procedure:

The following procedure is to aid in evaluating the low-pressure fuel system performance in the absence of fault codes.

1. Inspect all fuel lines (including chassis) for kinks and leaks. Repair prior to proceeding.

2. Battery voltage must be greater than 11.5 volts. If not, charge batteries as required.

3. Remove the rubber fuel hose from the outlet side of the fuel filter (Fig, 1).

1 - TEST PORT FITTING
2 - VP-44 FUEL INLET LINE
3 - RUBBER FUEL HOSE
4 - FUEL FILTER OUTLET LINE
5 - HOSE CLAMPS (2)
6 - VP-44 INJECTION PUMP
Fig. 1 FUEL HOSE AT FUEL FILTER


4. Attach a 915 mm (36 in.) clear hose to the fuel filter outlet line (Fig. 1). Do not use the pressure test fitting.

5. Route the hose to a clean, empty 3.8 liter (1 gallon) approved diesel fuel container.

6. Purge all air from the lines by bumping the starter to activate the transfer pump (transfer pump should run for 26 seconds).

NOTE: THE TRANSFER PUMP WILL RUN LESS THAN 2 SECONDS (VARIES WITH ECU CALIBRATION) WHEN THE IGNITION KEY IS FIRST TURNED TO ON. WHEN THE STARTER IS BUMPED (DO NOT ALLOW THE ENGINE TO START), THE TRANSFER PUMP WILL RUN 25 SECONDS. IF THE ENGINE HAS BEEN RUNNING, THE IGNITION KEY MUST BE CYCLED TO ALLOW THE TRANSFER PUMP TO RUN.

7. If the transfer pump runs, proceed to step 8. If the transfer pump does not run, check electrical circuits as follows:

a. Verify 12 volts are present across the transfer pump connector Use test light to verity current flow.

b. If 12 volts are present - Measure the resistance across the transfer pump. If greater than 200 ohms or less than 0.2 ohms, replace transfer pump.

8. Empty the container of fuel.

9. Bump the starter to activate the transfer pump. Look for air bubbles. If no air bubbles are present, proceed to step 10. If bubbles are present, check the lines/connectors between the fuel tank and the transfer pump for conditions allowing air to be drawn into the fuel system. Correct the condition and repeat steps 6, 8, and 9.

10. Measure the amount of fuel in the container after the pump shuts off. If the amount of fuel in the container is GREATER than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces) and the fuel is bubble free, then the low-pressure fuel system is OK, the cause of engine performance problem lies elsewhere. No further testing of the low pressure fuel system Is required. If the amount of fuel in the container is LESS than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces), proceed to step 11.

11. Connect fuel pressure test gauge #6828, included In the #6i977 Diesel Fuel Pressure kit, to the pressure fitting located on the fuel filter inlet. If the vehicle is a 2002 model, install test fitting #6976, included In the #6977 Diesel Fuel Pressure kit.

12. Purge all air from the lines by bumping the starter to activate the transfer pump. Empty the container of fuel.

13. Bump the starter to activate the transfer pump for 25 seconds. Observe the hose for air bubbles. Record filter inlet pressure.

a. If fuel filter inlet pressure is greater than 34.8 kPa (5 psi), replace the filter element, and repeat step 12 & 13.

b. If bubbles are present, check the lines/connectors between the fuel tank and the transfer pump for conditions allowing air to be drawn into the fuel system. Correct the condition and repeat step 12 & 13.

c. If fuel inlet pressure is less than 34.8 kPa (5 psi), proceed to stop 14.

14. If the fuel quantity continues to be LESS than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces), connect a fuel vacuum test gauge #6828 using the fuel pressure test adapter #6631 between the transfer pump and the chassis mounted fuel lines.

15. Purge all air from the lines by bumping the starter to activate the transfer pump.

16. Empty the container of fuel.

17. Bump the starter to activate the transfer pump for 25 seconds. Observe the hose for air bubbles. Record transfer pump inlet vacuum.

a. If inlet vacuum is greater than 152.4 mm/Hg (6 in/Hg), excessive restriction exists between the tank and the transfer pump. Inspect/repair the chassis fuel lines and/or fuel tank module for kinks and/or restrictions. After correcting the restriction, repeat steps 15, 16, & 17.

b. If bubbles are present, check the lines/connectors between the fuel tank and the transfer pump for conditions allowing air to be drawn into the fuel system. Correct the condition and repeat step 15, 16, & 17.

c. If the fuel quantity continues to be LESS than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces) and no bubbles are present, replace the transfer pump.


Copyright © 2002-2007, All Right Reserved ® -

MRaynor's Sig:

Mike

05 2500 CTD 4x4 LB Quad, Autometer ultralite pyro and 60# boost gauges on A pillar, Quadzilla Monster Intake, TCS TQ, Suncoast VB, MAGTECH pan, Howards cool down timer, SS nerf bars, fire & ice light bar on the rear, Recon amber LEDs under the cab, 5" miter cut stacks with no muff and 285/70/17 BFG AT/KOs.

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You might want to surf my site now and then... There is always something new posted up or new information...

But Thanks for the great comment! -

I do, and love reading your info as always. Glad to see you around man. -

Well after reading all of your replys, I looked into it a bit further and it turns out that the line for the gauge that goes from the isolator to the gauge was void of fluid which i read elseware that there is supposed to be some in there. After I put some new fluid in there according to the manufacures specs, it turns out that there is lots of pressure in my fuel line. So right now it is sitting at like 22 psi and not 9, and when under load it only drops down to about 18. So i hope that this was it and nothing else. -

Cain379's Sig:

1999 Dodge 2500 SLT, Edge Drag comp chip, fass fuel pump, PDR S300 Turbo, 5speed gear jammer, straight piped exhaust, custom cold air intake, 6" skyjacker lift, Boost gauge, 2x pyro gauges, fuel pressure gauge, 2x tranny temp gauges.

Sounds like you fixed your problem with an easy fix. -

lukesdiesel's Sig:

Diesel Dawgs Performance

Unleash the Dawg!!

828-399-1556

www.DieselDawgs.com

Expandit Exhaust Specials

6.7 Cummins XRT Race Tuner

HP Race Injectors

This is one good reason why I never installed a ISOLATOR in my truck...


I've been setup this way for nearly 5 years and never had a problem. If a problem does happen not a problem. All I got to do is turn off the fuel to the gauge using my needle valve. But for you guys with isolators if it blows out (which does happen without warning) now you got ZERO ways of turning off the fuel...

Dr. Evil would agree... -

Anyone in Canada and specifically in BC caught with a pressure gauge that does not have an isolator (oil, fuel etc.) will have their vehicle impounded with all repairs being made by a licenced mechanic at the owners cost.

Isolators can and do go nuts but they are easy to fix and frankly well worth it considering the alternatives. We used to install them on everything and I have one on my FP gauge. I have had it where you need to open it up and push down the diaphragm now and again and or refill it with 50/50 but like I said, owner choice.

Personally, not worth the trouble. -

Wyatt Earp's Sig:

Wyatt Earp
Smoke show: 2002 Dodge CTD
Daily Driver: 2003 VW Golf TDI
Other New Car: 2008 MB R320 CDI - Diesel Luxury

Thank Gawd I don't live in Canada... All my vehicles are WITHOUT isolators... Have been for over 20+ years for some of them...

Wow! Some countries are really tight on rules and regulations... -

I'm just making a point to the guys here in Canada following your otherwise great advise. -

Am I the only one that finds that funny? Semis ran fuel and oil into the cab for years (and may still do) and nothing was done about that.

Im also curious as to what kind of repairs need to be made by a licensed mechanic? So they dont like a fuel pressure gauge in my cab....I pop the hood and disconnect it - problem solved. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

Its not the country - its the province...they have nothing better to do over there than make up stupid laws. -

Actually the Federal Government has some interesting laws on this topic there DE. Most people if they got stopped and checked would not know what to do and would face the repair bill plus towing fee and so forth.

It remains the owners choice to remove the isolator but like everything they must understand the risks involved.

FYI: in AB with your private insurance if you were in an MVA and it was found to have diesel on the opposite side of the fire wall kiss your insurance coverage good bye. Again, not a risk I'm willing to take. But to each his own. -