i have a 99, 4x4, 5 speed the only modification is oversized tires( not that big 33's). I blew the center out of the clutch a year and a half ago(my fault), and in november i had to replace again same problem, this timei put a new input shaft in transmission(it had min. wear). OK hear is the problem after i put the clutch in a year and a half ago the truck jumped during that off(almost as if the flywheel was warped but it was turned when clutch was put in. Now after the second clutch put in and flywheel turned again i still have the same problem the only difference is i put in a splicer solid disc this time, but jumping is the same. I have checked tranny mount and it is ok, pinched the rear springs together thinking they were clapping and letting rear end pivot but no luck. Does anybody have any sujestions?

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Are you talking about a bad hitch at take-off from say a stop sign? If so, that is mostly due to the friction material of the clutch being more "grabby" than what was in your factory one.

Bosshogg's Sig:

02.5 2500 4X4 reg cab white HO 6spd. Edge comp, TST comp, and Bosch RV 275 sticks. Stacks by me to roll the coal. Walbro lift pump/filter big line setup, Multi function shifter stick, Solenoid High Idle. LED's All over it
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when you are stopped and go to pull out, as you let clutch out it is like it catches and releases almost as if pressure plate is clapping. It does it any time you pull out unless you give it fuel and slip clutch, then it works fine. All except for knowing what the end result of that will be!

Sawman's Sig:

*99 ex-cab short bed Dodge, RV 275 injectors, Quadzilla xzt+, BD boost fooler, Raptor 150, Air box, Silencer ring removed, Waste gate modified, Splicer solid clutch disc, and Glow shift gauges(boost, fuel pressure, and exuast temp), , and Splicer solid clutch disc.
*86 F-250 ex-cab long wheel base, 6.9 idi, 4 speed tranny, in need of an injector pump.

Pretty sure that's normal for a new aftermarket clutch...when I got my Con OFE redone, and installed, it was really grabby on me for a few weeks, to the point where I started to use 1st gear to get rolling from a dead stop. Once the clutch was broken in, I was able to go back to using 2nd to take off, and it ran normal at that point. But yeah, it feels like the trucks jumping as you're trying to slip the clutch to get going. Give it 500-1000 miles and then see if it's still doing it.

dennhop's Sig:

2001 QC SB, 5spd, stacks, AD150, Scheid 150s, Edge Comp/TST Comp stacked, 64/71/14 S300 turbo, South Bend DD3600, new SOVP44.
2003 CC SB, STOCK

Does your truck have a 2-piece rear drive shaft? On some trucks (though usually on earlier 3rd gens), the shudder you are describing is a slight mis-alignment in the drive-line angle. If you have a seized-up u-joint, it can multiply the problem. The fix is to lower the carrier bearing about a 1/4 inch using shims between the bearing block and cross member (and replace the u-joint if it's bad). My '03 used to buck and jerk when leaving from a stop from the day I bought it, lowering the carrier-bearing solved it.

Just a suggestion.

dieseldude03's Sig:

2003 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4, QC, long bed. Cummins H.O., 6-speed, 4.10 axle gearing, Jake Brake, Bully Dog RFI intake, Summit Racing 4" SS Exhaust, Edge "HOT" Juice w/ Attitude, DDP 50hp Injectors, Air Dog-100, HTT HTB2 62/12/65, 33 x 12.50 ProComp Extreme All Terrains, South Bend Con OFE, fuel tank vent mod, various other gizmos. Member - NRA

"Some people are like Slinkys. Pretty much worthless, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs!"

it has been ran about 1300 miles and seems like it is getting worse?

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Truck is ex cab short bed so no carrier bearing but i think rear end may be torqing the rear springs. I had said that i strapped the springs together well they broke the 1/4" plate and the grade 8 3/8"bolts today

If it were me, I'd change the u-joints in the rear shaft, especially if you haven't done it for a while. For the peace of mind if not anything else. It's a lot easier than ripping the clutch out again without knowing for sure if that's the problem.

My '03 used to EAT u-joints. Damn things were dealer-only parts ($100.00 a piece!), non-greasable and would dry out and seize. Had the one at the rear axle seize-up while pulling a loaded 32 foot goose-neck trailer. I could have sworn the rear axle had just destroyed itself! Would buck your teeth loose unless I launched in 4x4. Once I got going, it calmed down.

Got home, found the joint seized (can't tell by looking or wiggling. gotta pull it out), changed it, problem solved.

Thankfully, I was able to get severe-duty GREASEABLE u-joints from Federal-Mogul for 1/3rd the price of the stealership stuff. I changed out EVERY u-joint in the truck with 'em about 30,000 miles ago. Throw some grease in them every 4,000 miles (tire rotation) and haven't had a lick of trouble since.

thanks i will change them, you are write they havent been changed in 4 years. and i have tugged some pretty decent sized loads

where did you get your clutch man

Biggy B's Sig:

95 cummins #0 plate built pump,ceramic clutch

i got rid of the OEM ujoints about 10,000 ago, and i noticed a huge differnece right away. and that was with a new clutch installed with them.

cumminsdad08's Sig:

04.5 2500 quad cab Cummins Turbo Diesel HO 6spd-4in fabtec, 35-12.5x17 on american racing, cold air, high ram, edge juice with attitude, and a set of bass fish decals (they help with the HP)

Knoxville TN a place called world clutch. Every one around here uses this man and has great luck I have a hard time believing that I have got two bad in a row. But i am starting to wonder

tn clutch its just a grabby clutch take off in 1st

If its a Ceramic Clutch it will always be grabby.

lukesdiesel's Sig:

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