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24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps

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  #1  
Old 12-23-2009, 01:45 AM
Diesel Enthusiast

   

Default Front driveline u-joints...

So my u-joints in my front driveline need replaced. I've never replaced one of these double u-joint setup types. How hard is it? Any tips?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Come on, anyone? Not that I really need an answer right at this moment. I'm just curious.

Renteria1217's Sig:1998.5 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L QC/SB. Rebuilt vp44, 100gph Raptor pump. K&N Cold Air Intake, Stock 3" Straight Pipe. Diablo power puck.

Last edited by Renteria1217; 12-23-2009 at 01:45 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #2  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:07 AM
turbo20psi's Avatar
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Here is some help.Front Axle Tech . Not hard to replace BUT hard to get to.If you are going to do this yourself you might want to check your ball joints,tie rod ends,front hub bearing assemblys,track bar ,shocks.Air tools make the job easier,breaker bar,a friend(not the one with four legs).Uncle Bubba did a front end rebuild forum read this to see if it helps http://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-24...nt+end+rebuild NOTE:You do not have to pull the carrier for what you want to do.Go site to get all your stuff http://quad4x4.com/Dodge%20Drive%20Shaft.htm Nice guy!

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Last edited by turbo20psi; 12-23-2009 at 08:40 AM..
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  #3  
Old 12-23-2009, 10:43 AM
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I'm not talking about the front axle. I'm talking about the U-joints on the front drive shaft. One coming from the transfer case to the front differential.
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  #4  
Old 12-23-2009, 11:34 AM
wildbill's Avatar
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Tear down.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Double Cardan Disassembly.jpg (140.0 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg Double Cardan Disassembly II.jpg (140.6 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg Double Cardan Disassembly III.jpg (135.8 KB, 37 views)

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  #5  
Old 12-23-2009, 12:25 PM
99stackedpowerstroke's Avatar
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no there not hard to replace alot of people look at em and think they are, its actually really simple to do just take your time so you dont break the adapter,

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  #6  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:39 PM
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I found it best to take it to a local shop (pueblo brake and clutch) where I had them replace all of the parts on yhe transfer case end with beefier parts and a greaseable CV ball. they did all of the work for $300 and rebalanced it. I drove 200 miles on it today down snowy roads@ 65mph with no vibrations at all. except for the traction, I couldn't tell she was in 4wd

crazycooter's Sig:2001 3500 cummins 5 spd, 155K on the clock, 5" exhaust, air dog 100, hx35/hx40 hybrid turbo +175 hp injectors, smarty, glowshift guages, Amsoil air filter, Amsoil 15w40 engine oil. [ wife's ride...'05 LLY don't know what to do to it yet, spare ride - '89 1st gen power ram 250 cummins
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  #7  
Old 11-27-2010, 04:47 PM
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Alright guys I'm finally going to do this, I think. I've got to drive to SLC tomorrow am for a funeral. Its been snowing all day here. Anyone just done this in their garage before? I've got to do mine in my garage and any tips or anything would be very much appreciated.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Can i use a a regular autozone rented u-joint press?

Last edited by Renteria1217; 11-27-2010 at 04:47 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #8  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:00 PM
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Or a big vise.
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2010, 03:37 PM
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A vise is usually the easiest way. You might as well replace your cv ball while your in there too. For 40 bucks why not? It will prevent you from having to do it down the road.

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  #10  
Old 12-02-2010, 01:29 PM
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If you've never replaced u-joints then you will find out that its not that hard but its just as easy to screw something up. Especially if you're using a vice and you've never done it before. Smashing the yokes will result in tight u-joints which will cause all kinds of issues. Then making sure you keep everything in "time" is important. Plus you have to deal with the added variable of the double cardan joint with a front driveshaft. Not only are the u-joints internal but there is also a ball and spring to deal with which can also be worn. Honestly, I would suggest that you take it to a reputable driveline shop and have them fix it up with some non-greaseable u-joints. The price you pay (which shouldn't be to much) will far exceed the time, effort, and experimenting, you'll have to go through.....not counting any possible errors.

And the reason I say to use non-greaseable is because they are far superior to greaseable. Non-greaseable have 3 firm seals which snap into place to keep water/debris out and grease in where greaseable has only 1 weak seal that does a crappy job so you can push out contaminants when (if) you do grease them. Plus, non-greaseable u-joints are stronger than greaseable because they're solid and they dont have the zerk fitting.
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