24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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So my u-joints in my front driveline need replaced. I've never replaced one of these double u-joint setup types. How hard is it? Any tips?
Come on, anyone? Not that I really need an answer right at this moment. I'm just curious.... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
Here is some help.Front Axle Tech . Not hard to replace BUT hard to get to.If you are going to do this yourself you might want to check your ball joints,tie rod ends,front hub bearing assemblys,track bar ,shocks.Air tools make the job easier,breaker bar,a friend(not the one with four legs).Uncle Bubba did a front end rebuild forum read this to see if it helps http://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-24...nt+end+rebuild NOTE:You do not have to pull the carrier for what you want to do.Go site to get all your stuff http://quad4x4.com/Dodge%20Drive%20Shaft.htm Nice guy!
Last edited by turbo20psi; 12-23-2009 at 09:40 AM.
I found it best to take it to a local shop (pueblo brake and clutch) where I had them replace all of the parts on yhe transfer case end with beefier parts and a greaseable CV ball. they did all of the work for $300 and rebalanced it. I drove 200 miles on it today down snowy roads@ 65mph with no vibrations at all. except for the traction, I couldn't tell she was in 4wd
Alright guys I'm finally going to do this, I think. I've got to drive to SLC tomorrow am for a funeral. Its been snowing all day here. Anyone just done this in their garage before? I've got to do mine in my garage and any tips or anything would be very much appreciated.
Can i use a a regular autozone rented u-joint press?
Last edited by Renteria1217; 11-27-2010 at 05:47 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If you've never replaced u-joints then you will find out that its not that hard but its just as easy to screw something up. Especially if you're using a vice and you've never done it before. Smashing the yokes will result in tight u-joints which will cause all kinds of issues. Then making sure you keep everything in "time" is important. Plus you have to deal with the added variable of the double cardan joint with a front driveshaft. Not only are the u-joints internal but there is also a ball and spring to deal with which can also be worn. Honestly, I would suggest that you take it to a reputable driveline shop and have them fix it up with some non-greaseable u-joints. The price you pay (which shouldn't be to much) will far exceed the time, effort, and experimenting, you'll have to go through.....not counting any possible errors.
And the reason I say to use non-greaseable is because they are far superior to greaseable. Non-greaseable have 3 firm seals which snap into place to keep water/debris out and grease in where greaseable has only 1 weak seal that does a crappy job so you can push out contaminants when (if) you do grease them. Plus, non-greaseable u-joints are stronger than greaseable because they're solid and they dont have the zerk fitting.
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