Diesel Bombers SIGN UP NOW

National Association of Diesel Motorsports
Go Back   Diesel Bombers > Dodge Cummins > 24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!

24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps

Welcome to Diesel Bombers Forums!
Welcome to DieselBombers .com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Diesel Bombers Forums community today!


So my u-joints in my front driveline need replaced. I've never replaced one of these double u-joint setup types. How hard is it? Any tips? ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Come on, anyone? Not that I really need an answer right at this moment. I'm just curious.... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

Reply
 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-23-2009, 01:45 AM
Diesel Enthusiast

   

Default Front driveline u-joints...

So my u-joints in my front driveline need replaced. I've never replaced one of these double u-joint setup types. How hard is it? Any tips?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Come on, anyone? Not that I really need an answer right at this moment. I'm just curious.

Renteria1217's Sig:1998.5 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L QC/SB. Rebuilt vp44, 100gph Raptor pump. K&N Cold Air Intake, Stock 3" Straight Pipe. Diablo power puck.

Last edited by Renteria1217; 12-23-2009 at 01:45 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:07 AM
turbo20psi's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Status: Making only 82psi.. :)

   

Default

Here is some help.Front Axle Tech . Not hard to replace BUT hard to get to.If you are going to do this yourself you might want to check your ball joints,tie rod ends,front hub bearing assemblys,track bar ,shocks.Air tools make the job easier,breaker bar,a friend(not the one with four legs).Uncle Bubba did a front end rebuild forum read this to see if it helps http://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-24...nt+end+rebuild NOTE:You do not have to pull the carrier for what you want to do.Go site to get all your stuff http://quad4x4.com/Dodge%20Drive%20Shaft.htm Nice guy!

turbo20psi's Sig:[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


A little here a little there.



Diesel Dawgs Performance
Unleash the Dawg!!
828-399-1556
www.DieselDawgs.com

Last edited by turbo20psi; 12-23-2009 at 08:40 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-23-2009, 10:43 AM
Diesel Enthusiast

   

Default

I'm not talking about the front axle. I'm talking about the U-joints on the front drive shaft. One coming from the transfer case to the front differential.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-23-2009, 11:34 AM
wildbill's Avatar
BOMBARDIER
Status: Being Twisted In the Wind

   
View Member's Albums View Member's FaceBook Profile View Member's Youtube Account

Default

Tear down.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Double Cardan Disassembly.jpg (140.0 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg Double Cardan Disassembly II.jpg (140.6 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg Double Cardan Disassembly III.jpg (135.8 KB, 39 views)

wildbill's Sig:
2006 Ram Cummins
"RAMPAGE"





Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-23-2009, 12:25 PM
99stackedpowerstroke's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Status: powerstrokes aint no joke

   
View Member's Albums

Default

no there not hard to replace alot of people look at em and think they are, its actually really simple to do just take your time so you dont break the adapter,

99stackedpowerstroke's Sig:2/03 6.0 4door short bed lariat, 4x4, fx4 package, arp studs, egr delete, AFE stage 2 intake, isspro trans temp, fuel pressure, boost, and pyro. sct tunner with custom tunes by idp. 4inch turbo back (true turbo back) 6inch tip.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:39 PM
Diesel Enthusiast

   

Default

I found it best to take it to a local shop (pueblo brake and clutch) where I had them replace all of the parts on yhe transfer case end with beefier parts and a greaseable CV ball. they did all of the work for $300 and rebalanced it. I drove 200 miles on it today down snowy roads@ 65mph with no vibrations at all. except for the traction, I couldn't tell she was in 4wd

crazycooter's Sig:2001 3500 cummins 5 spd, 155K on the clock, 5" exhaust, air dog 100, hx35/hx40 hybrid turbo +175 hp injectors, smarty, glowshift guages, Amsoil air filter, Amsoil 15w40 engine oil. [ wife's ride...'05 LLY don't know what to do to it yet, spare ride - '89 1st gen power ram 250 cummins
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-27-2010, 04:47 PM
Diesel Enthusiast

   

Default

Alright guys I'm finally going to do this, I think. I've got to drive to SLC tomorrow am for a funeral. Its been snowing all day here. Anyone just done this in their garage before? I've got to do mine in my garage and any tips or anything would be very much appreciated.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Can i use a a regular autozone rented u-joint press?

Last edited by Renteria1217; 11-27-2010 at 04:47 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:00 PM
wildbill's Avatar
BOMBARDIER
Status: Being Twisted In the Wind

   
View Member's Albums View Member's FaceBook Profile View Member's Youtube Account

Default

Or a big vise.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-30-2010, 03:37 PM
1AMatt's Avatar
Site Sponsor - 1aauto

   

Default

A vise is usually the easiest way. You might as well replace your cv ball while your in there too. For 40 bucks why not? It will prevent you from having to do it down the road.

1AMatt's Sig:Matt
1AAUTO.com
888-844-3393 EXT 161
Truck Parts
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-02-2010, 01:29 PM
KATOOM's Avatar
Diesel Fan

   

Default

If you've never replaced u-joints then you will find out that its not that hard but its just as easy to screw something up. Especially if you're using a vice and you've never done it before. Smashing the yokes will result in tight u-joints which will cause all kinds of issues. Then making sure you keep everything in "time" is important. Plus you have to deal with the added variable of the double cardan joint with a front driveshaft. Not only are the u-joints internal but there is also a ball and spring to deal with which can also be worn. Honestly, I would suggest that you take it to a reputable driveline shop and have them fix it up with some non-greaseable u-joints. The price you pay (which shouldn't be to much) will far exceed the time, effort, and experimenting, you'll have to go through.....not counting any possible errors.

And the reason I say to use non-greaseable is because they are far superior to greaseable. Non-greaseable have 3 firm seals which snap into place to keep water/debris out and grease in where greaseable has only 1 weak seal that does a crappy job so you can push out contaminants when (if) you do grease them. Plus, non-greaseable u-joints are stronger than greaseable because they're solid and they dont have the zerk fitting.
Reply With Quote
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:50 AM.

Copyright And Legal Notice Links Of Interest

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Diesel Bombers ® - All Content Protected Under Intellectual Property Rights Law of Registered Trademarks
Reg. No. 3,494,401 Cls. 100, 101 & 104 Under Int. Cl. 38
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK WE HOLD NO LIABILITY FOR ANY CONTENT RIGHT, WRONG OR INDIFFERENT

Protected by Copyscape Duplicate Content Check