Let me preface this by saying that I do realize that it has been a while since I have driven a stock truck so maybe I am just off base with this but here goes......

Background.......
I have a friend who has a bone stock 01.5 24v 6 speed ride that has me stumped.The truck recently threw a injection pump death code so it was replaced with a new one.The shop doing the work uses pumps from Blue Chip Diesel and while they were doing that they also did a replacement lift pump and relocated it back on the frame(not what I would have done here but its not my truck).While it was there they also freed up a frozen turbo wastegate(it was stuck open) and cleaned the IAT sensor.The truck has 3.54 rears and rides on a 35 inch tire as its lifted 6 inches over stock.The truck is used primarly for daily driving and some local travel jaunts done by the owner.It is NOT,repeat,NOT,a performance built ride and was bought because the owner is a Dodge/Cummins person.

The issues and again,maybe its just me here......
For a lack of better words here the truck is a absolute turd to drive.It has got to be the absolute worst 24v I have EVER driven in stock form for power.You can not even drive around here locally with it as the small rolling hills cause you to drop holes in the box to even have a chance to get over them.While I do understand that a stock 24v HO truck is no real power monster I do know they should run better than this one.Mash the loud pedal and it runs to about 2gs and lays an egg and dies and does not pull hard from there to 3200.Figuring the 35" tire and 3.54's were not a good mix a set of 265's were placed on it and no change was made to how the truck responded.Its still a dead fish and makes little or no power above 2-2200 rpm's and is slow to wind up beyond that range.

Fuel pressure has been checked and is OK and there are no codes showing with a scan tool.I am leaning to thinking its TPS related but want some input from the experts here on what others think or where to start .The dealer where they got the work done is attempting to sell a TST PM3 to the owner but I have curtailed that until the truck gets sorted out first.I do not think the addition of a fueling box right now will allow the truck to make efficent use of that box if it can not make power wiothout it.The truck has just over 100k on it now and the owner is very discouraged with it.

You help and thoughts are welcome gang as I am about lost..............Andy

Hammer's Sig:

1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 12v 5spd Quad Cab
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Mason-Dixon Turbo Diesel Club Event Co-Ordinator
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Only things I can think of if it is actually defueling like that is the TPS, APPS or install a boost fooler and see if that helps. I also have to wonder if the waste gate repair didn't have somethin to do with this though and is causing the truck to die like that. Maybe clamp the gate closed and see if it helps. Just control boost with your foot so you don't blow the turbo of course.

Only things I can think of right now.

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

Gate is blocked with a boost elbow.I am actually trying to get it to set a over-boost code but it will not spin the motor hard enough to even do that.it acts like it wants to go but when it hits that 2000 rpm wall it falls flat on its face and dies.Like I said,I am no 24v person but I know this truck should at least pull itself along enough to maintain speed.

i would check the APPS, the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor. Also get some turbo clamps from the local farm store and double clamp every intercooler hose(or spring for the nice aftermarket ones). Now my old 98 was having this issue and it ended up being a cracked fuel filter housing. The crack wasnt enough to leak fuel which is why i never caught it but it was enough to let air in. It was cracked when someone overtighten of of the two little brass plugs on the top of the housing. 01s are different so hopefully thats not the problem, but check anyway.

dukeboy_318's Sig:

99 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins, 5spd with south bend dual disc ,
150 horse injectors, 150 gph fass fuel pump, Ranchhand winch bumpers, front and rear, 2 inch leveling kit, New Kenwood head unit and speakers, 305/75/16 BFG All-terrain KOs, 6 in hella off road lights, Procomp silver mechanical guages. 5/8 drawstraw III, 1/2 inch lines to the fass for now.
TST dyno results- 463.8 hp and 1076.3 ft lbs
Recruiter/member- Blowing Smoke Gang

I know it doesn't help fix the problem but ya these 24V in stock form are not speed demons at all but I can pull 30,000 pound trailers all day long and never have issues and I turn all the toys off to do this and run at stock HP. The toys make it run to hot when I'm pullin heavy.

Just a thought here....

Would anyone know what or how the truck would drive if it had a SO VP placed on it instead of a HO VP?.

Uncle Bubba...
I know these trucks are no powerhouses which is why I may be a tad biased or tainted since mine has not been stock for so long,but,they should hold their own and not need to drop 2 holes to just go up a small hill unladen.It truely is a pig when it comes to power and to me is a hazard to drive if it can not maintain speed up a small hill unladen.

dukeboy...
Boost leaks were checked for as the entire charge air system was checked for leaks with my tester I had made for my 12v.Once the system was charged no noticable leaks or leakdown was seen on the gauge at all.The fuel filter housing is OK and has the billet top on it instead of the plastic one to prevent air seeepage issues.

It would have more power.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I would be checking the map sensor real close. I don't remember the name of it, but there is a program out there that you can run on a laptop plugged into your diagnostic port and get real time readings of all the sensors. It wasn't that expensive (worst part was the cord for the laptop)and very helpful back when I had my VP44 truck. If you can track it down, it would make diagnosing this problem relatively easy.

94Matt's Sig:

2008 Dodge Cummins Quad cab, long bed, 4x4, manual. Herd bumper, 5" exhaust, egr/dpf delete, Black Maxx

2007 Chevy Duramax Crew cab, long bed, 4x4, auto. Ali-arc bumper, Edge hot juice/attitude

The Fodge, a 1993 Ford 4x4 reg cab, 03 Cummins common rail, with southbend FE and NV4500

Bunch of gassers

Any codes?

lukesdiesel's Sig:

Diesel Dawgs Performance

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828-631-1546

www.DieselDawgs.com

Expandit Exhaust Specials

6.7 Cummins XRT Race Tuner

Online Only Specials

what is a SO VP? and what is a HO VP?

Check the voltage on the APPS. Adjust as needed. AFTER that is set correctly, unhook the batteries for 1/2 hour or better with the key on (to suck the juice out of any capacitors) turn the key off, hook batts back up. Turn key to run position and push throttle slowly all the way to the floor and back up. Between getting the voltage right and resetting the APPS, should solve the biggest part of your problem. I would almost wonder if the injectors were getting coked up but if it pulls good to 2 grand then falls on its face that kind of rules that out. How much boost will it make?

Bosshogg's Sig:

02.5 2500 4X4 reg cab white HO 6spd. Edge comp, TST comp, and Bosch RV 275 sticks. Stacks by me to roll the coal. Walbro lift pump/filter big line setup, Multi function shifter stick, Solenoid High Idle. LED's All over it
Black smoke is just advertised horsepower!!!
Special thanks to J&J Performance 937-673-6458

maybe not, if you switch from an HO to an SO or an SO to an HO, you still would have to reprogram the ECM in order for the communication and timing to be correct. Itd run but not the best that it could. I didnt think of that earlier but that could be the problem. When we were testing a buddies truck on the dyno last year after we put a pump off an 01 on his 98, itd run wierd, the power curve looked like an EKG screen. We finally decided to put the ECM off the HO display engine tst kept in their shop and it fixed the problem. Not sure if thats your problem but it is an idea

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

true, my ol 98 would just shutter and wanna shut off at 2000 rpms or above until i found a replacement fuel filter top, the 98-99s were aluminum and were different then the 00-02s

Nope.not a code in it at all.

Matt...
If you could remember the name of that program it would be a great help.I tried searching it but came up empty so if you can find it or remember it,I would appreciate it.

Bosshogg....
APPS was reset and it made zero difference.I do not think the injectors are the big issue here,however,I will not rule them out as the truck is just over 100k on them.

Dukeboy...
MAP sensor was pulled today by myself and cleaned just to make sure it was not all gunked up with carbon or residue.It made a little difference but the truck still does not pull over 2200 very hard.When you had your buddies truck strapped down and the sheets were all messed up due to the pump could he feel that when he drove it on the street?.The reason I ask is after a long drive today with it locallly,some highway-some town driving,thats about how it acts.One time it acts like it will tear the hides off the tires and the next time it feels slower to respond than a turtle..The one thing that remains a constant though is it not pulling over 2200 with any authority.I know the SO pumped 5spds were like that back in 99-00 and they were notorious for poor fuel milage which was why Ma Mopar cut the production off early in 2000.To me it feels like a SO Pump and when you drive it the truck runs well from 1400-2200 and responds well in that range.Any attempt at trying to go above it the truck lays flat and its done.

I have called the shop who did the work and asked him to call Blue Chip and see if they may have sent the incorrect pump out and it was installed.If that is the case then she will have to decide on making them swap it or just adding a box and be done with it......Andy

P.S.-JunkYardKid....SO stands for Standard Output and the HO stands for High Output.

just a thought but could the truck be in limp mode?
marcel

marcel310's Sig:

01 dodge QC SB.autometer pyro.boost .tranny.fpfass95..HTT 62/12 mach 4`s 4 inch exit edge drag comp 497/960 225,000 and climbingyou tube/01bluerocket

Hammer I found this link after matt mentioned it in the earlier post here not sure if this is what he had but it is for obdII and looks pretty interesting and inexpensive check it out see what you think. Im going to do alittle more research into it myself.
Order OBD II Scan Tool Software and Hardware

blkjack's Sig:

2002 Quad cab 2500 24v 6spd. Mods, Gauges, FP, Pyro, Boost 86d' Silencer ring, Turbo back 4" straight piped exhaust w/ 5" tip. BHAF with custom heat shield. Custom built bolt in gooseneck hitch. Yep pretty much stock!

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