Here are a few shots of a quick way to check for air leaks. I found two small leaks at 40PSI, a quick tightening of a hose clamp fixed them.





The metal plug is a cap for a hydraulic tank, and the orange rubber boot is generic rubber tube. If the system is not holding pressure, and you can not find a air leak, rotate the engine. One cylinder may have its valves overlapping one another allowing air to escape through the exhaust system.
I used shop air, a regulator, a blow gun, a small rubber hose, and of course my special fitting. I removed the clamp at the compressor outlet, and clamped on the flange. Hope this may help some one down the line.

RAWilliams's Sig:

2001 Dodge RAM2500, Ext. Short, 5.9L Cummins. Edge Attitude with Juice, +50HP Fireball Nozzles(thanks to Luke from Diesel Dawgs), FASS 150/150(thanks to Harry at Peak Diesel), MRBP 5" Installer Series (thanks to Kenny from Ken's Performance Solutions), HX35 w/Banks Wastegate Actuator and Edge Elbow, 2.5" leveling kit in front, air bags in the rear. 305/70R16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armour's, for winter.
Heavy Equipment Technician (Off Road) by trade.

thanks for the info bro............similar to the one I built

I tell ya we had a bomb party at my shop and we tested 9 trucks...all had leaks including my own

if you have never tested yer system then do it

Whit's Sig:

* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

“Life is not about waiting on the storms to pass…it’s about learning how to dance in the rain.”

I need to build one of these test system myself...

Mopar1973Man's Sig:

2002 Dodge Cummins - Michael Nelson

do it...............yuo will be suprised

Yea yea yea... Isn't it the trusth you take care of everyone elses rigs better than you own... I know I need to do it...

Is there a reason you could not hook it up to the intake side of the turbo to take the test?

Captn_tyler's Sig:

Nothin' but fun in the sun

2001 Dodge Ram, HO Motor w/NV5600, Quad Cab, Quadzilla with Pulse, Air Dog 150, BHAF, 4" stacks, Hasiley Street Puller Clutch

As for me... I just need to take the time and build it...

i need to do that myself thats awesom e

hotcummins's Sig:

its a 12valve with a few performance adders

Need to build one also.

turbo20psi's Sig:

A little here a little there.



Diesel Dawgs Performance
Unleash the Dawg!!
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www.DieselDawgs.com

Here's a different variation of the same thing. Some of the discussion on this thread will help understand how it all works a little more. Boost Pressure Tester Build Instructions

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

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99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi