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24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps

I recently had the whole climate control box out of my '01. Not a bad job, and a bit easier with a buddy. It's a good time to run any wires that you need for gauges, stereo, or any accessories. I had everything closed up ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #16  
Old 11-01-2009, 02:14 PM
RAWilliams's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Wanting more, MORE, MOOORE!!

   

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I recently had the whole climate control box out of my '01. Not a bad job, and a bit easier with a buddy. It's a good time to run any wires that you need for gauges, stereo, or any accessories. I had everything closed up when I found a ground strap left over, and couldn't think of where it came from. It the dawned on me that it came from the heater core. From what I have been told, this is a vital part to the longevity of a heater core. I quickly flipped the dash back down and installed it. -

RAWilliams's Sig:2001 Dodge RAM2500, Ext. Short, 5.9L Cummins. Edge Attitude with Juice Controller, FASS 150/150, 2.5" leveling kit in front, air bags in the rear. 305/701R16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armour's, for winter. Ehaust is straight-piped and sounds great! Heavy Equipment Technician (Off Road) by trade.
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2009, 08:32 PM
Newbie

   

Default recently changed heater core

I recently change the heater core and while I was in there I change the AC core out as it wasn't working very well either. After i got it all back together I realized the bypass door for the heater to AC was not functioning and had to take it apart to fix the problem. One thing that I was told that if you have heat going to the heater core and you can feel heat but it is not coming out, the switch motor could be bad, this was a problem on these trucks (motor going bad). you still need to pull the dash to get to the motor (located on the left bottom side of the box assembly) the door is activated by the vacuum hot cold switch on the dash, another "lesson learned" was that the main vacuum feed to the heater system is behind the heater core and comes through the same hole as the hoses go through. Check all of your vacuum lines and ensure they either did not come off or are not broken.

The job is not that hard and having a buddy there helps even though there is not a lot of room for two people to work at the same time.

Good luck.

Kerry -

Last edited by bozinw; 11-02-2009 at 11:52 PM..
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  #18  
Old 11-03-2009, 10:02 PM
nick b's Avatar
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i think my water cooled turbo had some crud in it and it got knocked loose an went in the heater core im going to try flushing it out when i take that pice of junk off an make room for the 64 -

nick b's Sig:99 dodge 2500 4x4 edge juice with attitude hot, coal train 150s,garret stage 3 63.5/72.5/15 little work in the tranny,afe stage 2 mbrp 4 inch
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:43 AM
Diesel Fan

   
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I've never had great heat in my truck. I have a 190* T Stat in it and it has been taking about 15 miles for the truck to get up to 190* on the gauge. 10-15* outside.

When it's -30* out the heater on high keeps the cab maybe 55*

Probably need to replace the heater core, but until it puts out no heat or starts leaking I'm not messing with it. -

Last edited by nate379; 11-04-2009 at 12:48 AM..
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  #20  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:14 AM
blkjack's Avatar
Hi Valley Bomber
Status: Leavin my carbon foot print in case i get lost

   


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Try flushing it first if you think you have crud in it thats cheap and easier than the heater core R&R but flush it backwards as not to lodge thigs deeper usally will dislodge things good luck -

blkjack's Sig:2002 Quad cab 2500 24v 6spd. Mods, 86d' Silencer ring, Turbo back 4" exhaust w/ 5" tip. Custom built bolt in gooseneck. Soon to come gauges, FP, Pyro, Boost. Air Dog 150. and a Adrenaline pulse tuner.
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