The IAT sensor measures the temperature of the intake manifold. The ECM uses this sensor reading to set injection timing and adjust the air-fuel ratio. If the fuel mileage and power output of you engine seem low, some owners have found improvement in EGT, fuel economy, and power after cleaning carbon from the IAT sensor in at the rear of the intake manifold. Engine with exhaust brakes are particularly prone to IAT sensor fouling because soot is blown back into the intake during valve overlap. Smokingdiesel.com has an information page about problems caused by the IAT sensor.

The only tool you need is a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and 13/16" socket.

The IAT sensor is found on the driver's side of the engine, almost at the back of the intake manifold.




Temperature
Resistance

30°
40K

32°
30k to 36k ohms

76°
13K ohms

77°
9k to 11k ohms

81°
6.87K ohms

122°
3k to 4k ohms

130°
4K ohms

167°
600 to 675 ohms

212°
600 to 675 ohms


Replacement Sensor:

Cummins PN 3408345

Dodge PN 05014197AA Sensor, Temperature (SEN, TEM) -

Attached Images

iat_cl15.jpg (31.7 KB, 25 views)

Whit's Sig:

* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

Always remember...when life hands you Lemons,ask for Tequila and Salt and call me over!

Forgot what to clean it with. Only use carb or electronic aerosol cleaners on these sensors. Anything else will leave reisdue that will distorte the readings. -

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

good point slick...thanks -

Dont use carb cleaner

Electric contact cleaner is available at most parts stores and is the best thing to use. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

Starting fluid (ether) will also work excellent. -

for a stock truck...you don't need to do this till well past 100k most of the time...did the old 2001 at 85k and it was clean as a whistle. Do third gens have em? -

2001shrtbedcummins's Sig:

Mexican Baseball League "I love this game"
Man who marries girl with no bust has right to feel down low.

Wondering the same thing. -

wildbill's Sig:

I Drive An 06 Dodge Ram 2500

Powered By a 5.9 Cummins

It Has Some Parts But Could Use More

96,000 Miles

Big Sky Bombers Social Group

Yes a 3rd gen has an IAT

and if you run a exhaust brake you should clean the IAT every 10k.............its amazing the difference

I cleaned my buddies at around 50k, he has no brake and yes it was carboned up somewhat......you could hear the diff in the idle before and after the cleaning -

We always use MAF Sensor Cleaner -

lukesdiesel's Sig:

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Unleash the Dawg!!

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Expandit Exhaust Specials

6.7 Cummins XRT Race Tuner

HP Race Injectors

i checked mine yesterday and the little white thing at the end of the brass fitting wasn't there -

Time for a new Sensor. -

the "old" starting fluid should be ok... the newer stuff leaves a residue... like you said ether... but good luck finding it, most places just sell "starting fluid" which is a whole different breed -

tower_ofpower's Sig:

One thing i learned in college: DON'T!!! stick your fingers where you wouldn't stick Mr. Happy 89' W250, full fuel 1 1/2 turns, smoke screw flush with the lock, stock pin mildly ground, 1/8th timing bump whole truck refreshing in progress. Soon to be: fuel pin, 366 spring, smooth wall intake tubes once i actually start stock piling some money, turbo and manifold swap, 4" exhaust; 5 if it'll fit. and nozzles.

can it operate fine without one?! -

as whitmore had said; the IAT is crucial to engine operation... it may run with out one, but it will throw codes and most likely run like a dog since it has to run on a base programming... the computer has to guess about everything it does, and therefore can never make the proper adjustments. so to answer your questiong, yes it will run with out one, and it'll run like crap to... is it advised? not at all... suck it up buy a new one, you'll probably pay for the sensor just in fuel savings and satisfaction. -