I don't think my rear drum breaks are working...If I break real hard the front disc breaks lock up but I don't think the rears are working. I have bled the breaks and have all new fluid. The pedal feels fine but seem to have to apply a good amount of pressure to stop. What is pressure bleeding? Is it possible they need to be pressure bled? The truck has 144,000 miles. I'm thinking I should possibly replace the rear wheel cylinders. Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

id take it to a good brake shop have them do an estimate on it then theyll tell you whats wrong with it and go from there then youll know what to fix at home some places do it for free

 

Jack the truck up enough to get the rear wheels off the ground. On the back side of the hubs you will find a slit with a rubber stopper in it if it's still there. Pull the rubber cap and use a flashlight to look in the slot and you will see a star wheel in there. Turn that star wheel with a screwdriver. Don't remember which direction off the top but you want to make the bolt longer and move that wheel out until there is just a little bit of tension on the wheels when you turn them by hand.

 

I know this is for 2002 truck for the parking brake but it works just the same for 2001 with drums...

E-Brake Adjustment



This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. 2001.5+ model years.

 

The other way to do it is to just pull the tire and drum off,then spin the starwheel thing a little,and test to see if the drum is getting harder to put back on,sounds harder,but it's easier for me to do it that way. (spin the drum as you are trying to put it back on)

I just hate laying on my back trying to spin that little thing through a slot.
Replace the starwheel while you are at it if the points are anything but razor sharp.
(unless you don't mind adjusting the brakes every now and then)

 

Before you start adjusting the drums - consider installing 1 ton wheel cylinders. These are easy to install and make a big difference after to adjust the drums. You will be happy you did this:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/cummin...r-upgrade.html


Also, on some trucks there is a rear brake proportioning valve. But I cant tell you what years thats on. If you follow the rear brake lines youll see it.

 

My Mom's 2000 2500 has the valve,on top of the axle,has a arm and rod on it for sensing load. (piece of crap)
Just ask the people that watched me pimp moms truck right through a red light in Grand Prairie with both front tires smoking...
The 2000 ram 3500 I bought for parts had drums,and no valve.
My 01.5 had disk,no valve.

 

I had the same problem before. I adjusted the rear brakes up and that stupid load sensor or rod. I unhooked it and zip tied it up so it would sense a load whether I was loaded or not. There is a way to bypass or get rid of them , but you have to redo your brake lines on the back. I haven't had time to do mine yet but it's on the list.

 

The other thing to look at here due to age is that you may be due for some new brake lines. Once they get weak the lines swell with pedal pressure instead of pushing the pads.

 

That is a good point - the rubber hoses can collapse internally and not let fuild in out out of the caliper.

You can get some really good S.S. braided hoses from these guys:

Search results - Circle Track Supply, Inc.


Thanks to JKM for the link.