24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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  #11  
Old 10-17-2008, 12:47 PM
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BHAF......NAPA2790

then get ya a Fass or Airdog pump and a gauge
 
  #12  
Old 10-17-2008, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
Exhaust, air intake, RV275 injectors, Pyro, boost and fuel pressure guage is as far as I would suggest going. This is assuming that you have beefed up the fueling system with a good pump and i would also suggest checking the exhaust manifold over very carefully. Almost every one of the stock ones are cracked and you lose a good amount of boost/power through those cracks.

I would agree with this. Except for the exhaust manifold. My truck only has 116,xxx on it but no cracky yet.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9-li...seem-find.html

This thread has a lot of good info for 2nd Gen BHAF as well as Part#'s.
 
  #13  
Old 10-17-2008, 03:17 PM
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I'll check for cracks. Also I went with the BD transfer pump instead of the FASS or others. It's cheaper, comes with 5yr. warranty, easy to install, and I am currently getting 23psi at idle. It runs inline with my stock lift pump, which is also new. Any one know of any other upgrades or tweaks that would go along with this post? There's nothing you can do free with just some mechanical work like on the 12v?
 
  #14  
Old 10-17-2008, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kazairl
I would agree with this. Except for the exhaust manifold. My truck only has 116,xxx on it but no cracky yet.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9-li...seem-find.html

This thread has a lot of good info for 2nd Gen BHAF as well as Part#'s.
They are almost always on the bottom side of the manifold. Until they get big they are almost impossible to see unless you pull it. They look like no big deal from the outside, just hairline cracks. When you put pressure of boost behind them they open up and let pressure out. It's a casting problem in the 99-01 years.
 
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Renteria1217
I'll check for cracks. Also I went with the BD transfer pump instead of the FASS or others. It's cheaper, comes with 5yr. warranty, easy to install, and I am currently getting 23psi at idle. It runs inline with my stock lift pump, which is also new. Any one know of any other upgrades or tweaks that would go along with this post? There's nothing you can do free with just some mechanical work like on the 12v?
If you are saying that one pump runs through the other you really need to change that. They will slow each other down and kill both of them prematurely like this. Use this thread as a guide on how to run both pumps independently of each other and get the most for your money out of them. If you have any questions about it fire away. https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-2...p-install.html
 
  #16  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:25 AM
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Crazy...I got this idea with the pumps from a local diesel injection service store owner. The way it's ran is the BD pump is mounted just outside the tank, it feeds into the other lift pump which then feeds the IP. He says that's the way he does them. The thing I did different was bypass the oil pressure sensor that comes with the BD pump to tell it when to turn on, and ran a swith into the cab to contol it. So my question then now is why you can't run them together on one line. Aren't they both just feeding fuel forward? How do they work against eachother, slow eachother down? Also people feel free to post some more answers on the first question.
 
  #17  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:45 AM
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I have an 89 12valve that I run on biodiesel. I installed an electric pump just after the mechanical pump. I control it with a switch in the dash. When I see the pressure getting close to zero, on cold winter days, I turn it on. the mechanical pump's output is about 5psi and the electric one is 10psi. I have dash mounted fuel pressure gauges to monitor filter inlet pressure and injection pump inlet pressure. Interesting to know is the pressures are compounded. I get a total of 15psi with both pumps running.

As far as reliability goes, I have no complaints so far.

I am contemplating doing the same thing with my 2001 perhaps with a holley blue pump. My juice/attitude warns me when fuel pressure drops too low. hope this helps!
 

Last edited by turbomar; 10-18-2008 at 02:52 AM.
  #18  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:56 AM
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If they are feeding through each other it is fine until one dies and then the dead one slows down the flow and creates additional resistance. It will work but it will put additional strain on the good pump and if the Holley between the tank and the stock pump dies the stock pump will not pull through that Holley at all before it dies.

For sake of ease of use just install a Hobbs pressure switch. With this switch the secondary pump will automatically turn on anytime your pressure drops below a certain pressure and turn off as soon as it goes over that pressure. This way it's all automatic and not one more ting you have to watch. Pressure switches are cheap and easy to install.
 
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  #19  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
If they are feeding through each other it is fine until one dies and then the dead one slows down the flow and creates additional resistance. It will work but it will put additional strain on the good pump and if the Holley between the tank and the stock pump dies the stock pump will not pull through that Holley at all before it dies.

For sake of ease of use just install a Hobbs pressure switch. With this switch the secondary pump will automatically turn on anytime your pressure drops below a certain pressure and turn off as soon as it goes over that pressure. This way it's all automatic and not one more ting you have to watch. Pressure switches are cheap and easy to install.
tks 4 ur input Bubba, that's a great idea. I have used hubbs switches in the past. I specially love the ones that are 3 terminal( NC and NO options in one switch) I didn't think u could get 5psi NC hubbs, can you? I had another question that went unanswered on another thread. For my 2001 Ram, I am thinking of removing the stock electric pump and installing a holley blue pump near the tank, will I need to install a 15psi pressure regulator(often sold with the pump) to dump excess pressure at the vp44 inlet, or is the excess pressure taken care of by the vp44 itself?
 
  #20  
Old 10-18-2008, 04:45 PM
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How long have you been running yours Tubomar? How often do you run them both together? I always run mine together. I don't have a guage set up yet. I have one to test it with in the garage but not one that I can read in the truck yet. I'll get it in soon though. So I run them both just in case. I've noticed though, if I turn the BD one off the truck will start to surge after about a minute or so, I don't think the stock one has enough umph to pull through the other and fuel enough to the IP. But with them together I get up to 23psi. So I might be stuck running them together until they die. We'll see how it goes. Since both pumps are new and warrantied I'll probably run it like this and see how it goes. To answer your question Tubomar, I believe the vp44 just returns extra fuel back to the tank. I've read posts of people testing to see how much pressure would be too much and they ran it to i think it was like 50psi with no problems. I don't think the post mentioned how much pressure was too much because I don't think they got that high. But I'm pretty sure if 23psi is okay, you'll be fine at 15.
 


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