I noticed this week that my truck has less power its not as noticeable at low speeds. The transmission does not want to make that last shift between 30 and 40 mph. I have to really get into it to where the engine is working more than it should or almost completely let off the throttle. I've also noticed that my fuel mileage has suffered considerably because of it. I use the truck mostly for commuting to work taking the same route and it is burning more than it should. I want to know if its something I can fix before I take it to a shop for something stupid. I'd appreciate any help you can give me, thanks.

 

I'd try resetting the apps def worth a shot.

Procedure
This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.

1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake

 

ck your brakes and drive line, make sure everything is moving freely .

 

I think the only thing in the 47re that is electrically controlled is the torque converter lockup. So if you are having shift problems I would recommend a fluid/filter change first. Also the throttle valve cable for the trans might need to be adjusted here is a link for that https://www.dieselbombers.com/98-5-0...nsmission.html Another thing you might try is a torque converter lockup switch. When the t/c is locked it makes a solid connection between the engine and trans, instead of fluid coupling, which will get you better mileage. With the switch you can lock the t/c in second gear and it will shift up through all the gears as normal but it will not down shift until the switch is turned off. Also if the switch is on and you come to a stop the engine will stall out. A t/c lockup switch is not recommended unless you have a built trans but I think as long as you take it easy a t/c switch would be fine on a stock trans. Here is how to install the switch http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20...p%20Switch.pdf

 

The RE uses a combination of hydraulic pressure and PCM inputs

 

I put this to another forum and got similar responses. I just did a fluid and filter change last spring when I swapped in the Borg Warner solenoid. Do I have another problem with needing new fluid this soon!?

 

Well I changed filter and tcc solenoid Sunday. I drove home with hardly any improvement. I checked fluid today and filled to 'ok' mark (was missing a quart and a half). I also replaced trams relay under hood. Nothing. Made slight adjustment to tv cable but set it back when nothing changed. The solenoid changed allowed me to clear the p0743 at advance auto parts and no more codes came up. If anyone has any idea why I'm still lacking power and rc won't lock up let me know. Thanks.

 

Check your fuel pressure and or turbo boost. I have seen a plugged fuel filter cause similar issues also if the turbo is not boosting properly then the motor will not rev. If the motor is struggling to rev up, It will take more throttle opening to get up to speed. With the throttle opened more, the shifts and lock up will be delayed. Make sure everything else is working properly then go back and look at the transmission.

 

I adjusted the tv cable but it still feels off. The shifts are weak. I replaced the trans relay under the hood and took it to advanced auto parts to use the obd scanner. Now it's pulling these three codes p1765 p0753 and p0743. If any one has any idea please chime in. Tomorrow I will get another relay just in case I lucked out with a cruddy one.

 

PO753 is 3-4 shift relay
PO743 is Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit.
P1765 is trans relay 12 volt supply circuit.

First thing I would do would be to check to see if you are getting 12 volts to the trans relay at the load circuit. If you are, check and see if the relay is working. If you have a scan tool with actuator capability, that makes it easier. If not check it with the engine running. It should click on when running. If this is working shut the engine off and place a jumper wire across the load branch of the relay plug. 12 volts should be on one side and the other side will go down to the transmission plug on the side of the trans. Check and see if you have power to the plug. This is where I suspect the problem may be. It is very common for the wiring at the plug to pull the insulation back and short the wires together on top of the plug. If this is the case, you can go to Dodge and buy a transmission wiring pig tail. This will come with the wires and the plastic plug. I usually cut one wire at a time and wire each pin in order. After this plug it in and recheck.
It has been a few years now since I worked at Dodge but I will see if I can find some more info