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24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps

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That sounds like what my truck was doing when I was having a problem with my BANKS module. It had no ***** at all!!! I could put my foot through the floor and the truck wouldn't get out of its own way. I sent it ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #11  
Old 09-05-2012, 11:19 PM
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That sounds like what my truck was doing when I was having a problem with my BANKS module. It had no ***** at all!!! I could put my foot through the floor and the truck wouldn't get out of its own way. I sent it back to BANKS and they reflashed it and I haven't had that problem any more.

It sounds like to me that the previous owner had to dummy wire the edge programmer because it probably needed to be wired into the map sensor and the boost gauge had that tied up. I would think thats not your problem you're having with the truck....seeing how its just started.

If you have a wire tapped into the top black wire on the injector pump then your edge programmer is hard tapped into the pump.
If so, I would bet its your programmer giving your truck ****!!! The Vp44 injector pump is the heart of the timing for the truck. The programmer might be making the pump advance the timing and leaning the fuel out. Which would make the truck run sluggish and no power. Also making the pump misfire on the injectors.

I would unhook the programmer and see how the truck runs on the factory settings. It won't have the seat ripping power but you can see if the truck has the power to move and it will take the fuel.

65fathead's Sig:99 24v cummins 5 speed 4x4, banks 4" elbow and downtube, banks big head wastegate, banks high ram intake, banks big hoss stage 5 black box, k/n air filter, 4" exhaust with big block flowmaster muffler,turbo silencer ring removed, banks gauges and airdog100 with big suction tube
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:36 AM
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Codes? many things can be a dead pedal. No need to throw parts at it.

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  #13  
Old 09-06-2012, 01:40 PM
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What can i do to make sure the dummy switch isnt messing with it or maybe one of the connectors isnt corroded inside and making a bad connect the programer is 12 years old maybe time to buy a new one if thats the issue what do you guys recomend as far as if i need a new programer? Ive seen alot of people using a smarty?

cody washburne's Sig:1999 dodge 2500 cummins 24v, airdog lift pump, edge programer, k&n, pillar gauges, 4in turbo back straight pipe, 18in chrome wheels wrapped with 35in nitto grapplers, skyjacker lift, jasper transmission.
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  #14  
Old 09-09-2012, 08:26 AM
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You miss your Duramax? You should be beaten for that comment! LOL

Well, several things that I'd suggest if I were in your shoes.

1.) If you have a code reader, find out what codes are being thrown, and head in that direction to continue your diagnostics. Just because a "check engine light" is not illuminated, that doesn't mean that there aren't any trouble codes being set or that are pending. Idiot lights are just that... for idiots.

Let's face it, with any modern vehicle, you are 2/3rds screwed when you don't have the ability to plug into the OBDII connector with a factory computer scan tool. You'd be amazed what can be done with a Chrysler DRBIII or now their new Starscan scan tool. (Too bad they are insanely expensive and unless you own a shop, you just can't justify purchasing one of them.)

2.) If you can, without causing too many other headaches, remove the entire Edge power programmer crap and put it back to stock. I'm pretty sure that "65Fathead" also suggested this.

Start over this way to see if your Cummins runs/operates like a correct stock truck should. (Remember, a stock truck doesn't blow black smoke and won't launch you into the seat like you are trying to blow up your transmission, but it'll move right along just fine.)

Anyhow, if the truck resumes running properly after removing the Edge stuff, you've found your problem. Being 12 yrs. old, there's a good chance there is a bad wire or connection somewhere, particularly if it wasn't properly installed and if the wiring wasn't made to be "weatherproofed", so to speak.

To be honest, it sounds like you don't have a lot of experience with this stuff. No surprise, as most people don't until they are forced into it when a problem arises. Plus, there's nothing worse than taking on someone else's modified truck that has been all "hacked up", with splices and rat's-nest poorly installed wiring messes. UGH...

3.) Perhaps you have a diesel performance shop near you? If so, you may want to bite the bullet and take the truck to them to have them figure out what's wrong with it. I know taking the truck into a diesel performance shop is probably not what you want to hear... but in the long run; it will be less stressful, your truck will be fixed faster, and it will be ultimately cheaper than just throwing parts at the unknown problem.

4.) Heck, you might just something as simple as a bad fuel lift pump, leading to an inadequate amount of fuel getting to the injection pump. It happens.
Have you checked your fuel delivery flow and pressure going to the injection pump? Don't forget... continued running of your engine will ruin your injection pump in a very short time if your lift pump isn't doing its job properly.

Why diesel truck manufacturers don't put fuel pressure gauges and shut-down safety systems in place on vehicles to protect the expensive injection pumps is beyond me. I guess they can't sell parts if they don't break.

As other guys on here have also mentioned... there are a LOT of possibilities that could be wrong with your truck being low on power. You just have to spend A LOT of time on diagnosis, and eventually you'll find your problem. Welcome to the world of electronically controlled diesels... UGH!
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  #15  
Old 09-09-2012, 11:30 AM
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Well your correct i am a full time mechanic but when it comes to diesel thats a whole new world for me, i did find the map sensor in the middle of all these wires that are hacked for the programer, it was unpluged i pluged it back in and cleared my codes had my power back for 10 min then right back to how its been. I am pulling the programer out and fixing all the wires that were spliced to make it all stock again and its going to a shop i know well tuesday they specialize in diesels, to get there opinion and have it checked out, my fuel pressure sensor is on the line from the air dog and its right before the injector pump and ussualy stays between 10-15 psi it has gone stupid on me a couple times and start jumping around up tp 20. Yesturday i was pulling my trailer and i would put it to the floor going up hill just to keep my speed. thanks for all the help hopfuly just the programer. Find out tuesday hopfully.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2012, 08:32 PM
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well had some stuff pop up, so i havent made it to the shop. i just got done removing my programmer so its all back to stock. ran several tests with my scanner and nothing ever poped up and my codes didnt come back. i took it for a drive and these things must be pretty poochy stock, i still have about the same amount of power. according to my gauge fuel pressure is good(10-15), and boost around 20 psi. do i keep digging? do i buy a new programmer to get my power back? i dont want to kill the thing but i want some extra power especially when im towing.
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:25 AM
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Hmmm, well it sure sounds like the programmer was very likely your issue...

Yeah, in stock form, the Cummins engines are not rocketships by any means, but they have good, steady consistent power and actually get up and go pretty good considering the weight that they are dragging down the road. If you have gotten yourself too used to the power programmers set to dumping fuel to them a lot though, especially in the higher performance (stages 4-5), then you will feel that stock settings are groggy when returning to them. Keep in mind, fuel economy is typically best at the stock settings, and that's where you'll want to be most of the time anyhow unless you have really deep pockets for diesel fuel.

Here's my suggestion since you feel it's still groggy, and there was a code for the MAP sensor in the past... I'd just install a new MAP sensor. Take it for what it's worth.
I just checked for you... and for $113 at Advance Auto parts, you can get a brand new Map Sensor made by BWD (Borg-Warner). The part number for your 1999 CTD truck is a: EC1816

A new map sensor may wake your truck right up, and it may not do much of anything if the old sensor was working properly. Way I figure it, a new sensor is still cheaper than taking it in to a shop. If it wasn't needed, now you have a spare to throw in your glove box, or better yet, you sell your good used one (if it turns out to still be good) on eBay or Craigslist to recoup some of your money. I'd say a good used MAP sensor ought to be worth around $25 to $50 bucks - no? Heck, if you were 100% sure that the sensor wasn't the problem, I'd give you $25 for it, and it could sit in my glovebox.

One last thing... I remember you saying that your gauges did some wierd shiznit when you were having problems earlier. Well, when my MAP sensor went bad in my 1999 Cummins, I had all kinds of wierd problems occurring. Multiple codes were set in the Dodge PCM and Cummins ECU, dash cluster gauge malfunctions, etc. Once I put the new MAP sensor in, and cleared out all of the codes, all of the crazy problems went away. Yeah - no lie.

The beauty of a new MAP sensor is that it literally takes about 10 minutes to change it. Just a big deep socket (I forget the size, maybe around 1-1/4" or so?), a 1/2" drive extension and a 1/2" drive ratchet. Be careful to not over torque the new MAP sensor when you install it. Put a light coat of oil or silicone spray on the o-ring and just snug it down.
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  #18  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:44 PM
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Im sure someone will quickly correct me if im wrong here.But,isnt the fuel pressure supposed to be 15-20lbs at all times to keep from starving the vp44? In other posts ive seen since owning my 99 ive seen under 15lbs is never acceptable. At least i THINK thats what ive read......I could be wrong,its happened once before!

BLACKSHEEP757's Sig:99 RAM 2500,24V CUMMINS,AUTO,REMAN VP44,NEW TURBO,50HP INJ,RECALIBRATED FACTORY ECM,AIR DOG 150,4" TURBO BACK,QUADZILLA ADRENILINE WITH PULSE PV2,FRESH TRANS W/SINGLE BILLIT CONV,HOME BREW FREE-SPIN CONV,HBS GEARBOX STABILIZER,2.5" COIL SPACERS,ALL NEW STEERING,BRAKES,BALLJOINTS,BEARINGS,ADJ TRACK BAR,ROASTING 315/70/16 NITTOS,TRASHED LEATHER INTERIOR WITH NO DASH TOP!STILL A LONG WAY FROM DONE!
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  #19  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:01 PM
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yea they got you going into the right direction, but it can be several things you just need to trouble shoot them all if you have an obdII set up for dodge you can plug it in and see what sensors are and are not reading, along of tracking the throttle position sensor. Any OBDII with the dodge programm should get those for you!

RanchhandTCR's Sig:1998.5 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve (Its A CUMMINS!) 3 inch straight pipe exhaust. Fuel, Trany, Boost/EGT Westach guages. DPS Exhaust manifold. Alaska PCM, 2008 Dodge rims fitted with Cooper S/T Maxx 26570R17. Bambi Basher, Rolling Arsenal. Colorado Cummins.
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  #20  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:55 PM
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bosch specifications are 13.5 P S I plus or minus 5 P S I
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